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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

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Old 04-30-2007, 08:31 AM   #25261
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Shoot, I love building kits...I'd do it for free I've been known to buy a kit just to have something to build. Such is the case with the Losi Type R that's been sitting on my desk since it came out. No time to race but it's loads of fun building.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Ah...figured out how to make the Laje site read in USD rather than using an online converter. At $360 it doesn't seem quite so steep when one considers they're including ceramic bearings AND the car comes fully assembled.

Since RTR/ARTR are the trends overall in the RC hobby (cars AND planes) it would seem that Calandra, et al, might benefit from offering a "Pro-Built" car. I'm sure Frank has considered it, so there's probably more to it than it would seem. Most RTR's do come from China, etc, so the impact on RRP isn't so much where the qty even Frank would do doesn't justify that. It would just seem that there are would be some soccer moms (read: independent contractors) in his neighborhood for whom $50/kit would be GREAT money, he marks the kit price up $100 and viola. Of course that only works for direct sales...a RTR via such into retail channels would become prohibitive in a hurry.

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Old 04-30-2007, 08:38 AM   #25262
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Shoot, I love building kits...
As do I...but no one can ignore that the GROWTH of the hobby (on land/in air) has been the RTR's. Even a car so easy to assemble as the average pan car can pose a daunting hurdle to a lot of folks out there in Consumerland.

Certainly wouldn't suggest ALL cars should be pre-assembled.

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Old 04-30-2007, 08:45 AM   #25263
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Default LAJE SE-07

the LAJE MH frontend is nothing like the Trinity/Kyosho frontend...not even close. it is much more user friendly. Both or near any frontend adjusted right works great.

MH Frontend caster adjustment....yeah my method is primitive, the way i checked caster on mine: i removed the wheels set the car on a flat surface and used a RPM camber guage to visually line up the kingpins to setting on the guage to verify caster or reset it.

i have owned 3 cars with milled down t-bar recesses with no issues of pivot areas getting worn out from hits. Hyperform H-12, Hyperform Razor-12, Laje 2006. i am now working on a Jari FF07 with the same concept but only the pivot and 2-56 screwhead areas milled out.

on LAJE's assembly is top notch, they also CA seal all the chassis parts

i asked them in the past if they ever considered selling a conversion kit since alot of racers have issues with buying a car that encompasses alot of stuff they already own such as diffs, bearings, shock, t-bar, screws, etc. Maybe conv-kit with just a built front end, carbon parts, pod plates, NTS piece. they referenced their shop for parts and didn't really answer. i still believe this is something they should consider.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-30-2007 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:48 AM   #25264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Shoot, I love building kits...I'd do it for free I've been known to buy a kit just to have something to build. Such is the case with the Losi Type R that's been sitting on my desk since it came out. No time to race but it's loads of fun building.
I meant have people send me your kits...I'll build them.
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:09 AM   #25265
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I personally think a kit such as the SE2007 should actually come as a kit rather than pre built. The first thing I did to mine was to strip it down to do the usual cell slot prep as well as sealing all the edges. The older 2006 model came pre sealed but all the chassis sealing on the 2007 model has to be done by the buyer. As for setting/checking the castor, that's how I've always checked it. A RPM gauge measuring the kingpin angle, sorted!
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:16 AM   #25266
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i didnt see any advantage to it and it also makes the chassis prone to bowing in the center.with the way carbon fiber is made,alot of large area pocketing that breaks out of the perimeter of the chassis will make it bow.there are ways to work around it but it will be common to have problems.i dont think that there is any advantage and it may cause bowing issues.i doubt it will have any problems due to the depth it is cut but i just dont see an advantage.other than that the car looks kick ass
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:44 AM   #25267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i didnt see any advantage to it and it also makes the chassis prone to bowing in the center.with the way carbon fiber is made,alot of large area pocketing that breaks out of the perimeter of the chassis will make it bow.there are ways to work around it but it will be common to have problems.i dont think that there is any advantage and it may cause bowing issues.i doubt it will have any problems due to the depth it is cut but i just dont see an advantage.other than that the car looks kick ass
I think I have some insight as to why Laje would want a lowered roll center. I have heard that the carpet used on European tracks is different than the carpet we run on in the US and is lower in bite. I started wondering about this because of the way the SE2006 I have came built. Like the lowered .063 t bar and a green shock spring. All the team car setups I got from them were something like that. On our OD12 cars we ran a lowered t bar when we were having bite issues at one of our local tracks and it helped plant the rear better. Add to that that they (Team Laje) run mod only, no stock or 19t
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:35 AM   #25268
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one of the American guys i used to work with said that US carpet tracks have loads more grip than european carpet tracks. we also have to use non smelly additive rather than stuff like paragon, etc. we also run 19t and mod/brushless but no 27t at all. i was amazed how much grip the outdoor tarmac track at tq hobbies had when i raced there a couple of years ago.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:53 AM   #25269
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OD, can you make a chassis with a lower t-bar like hyperform with you chassis? If so how musch more would you charge?
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:35 AM   #25270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
OD, can you make a chassis with a lower t-bar like hyperform with you chassis? If so how musch more would you charge?
Hey Carlos
The lowered t bar that we used on our team carpet cars was a special t bar set up and the chassis does not have a pocket where the t bar mounts. I would not want to mill out the chassis on the asphalt car since it is thin (2mm) already, and would probably be weak at the pivot mounting holes. As usual, there is more than one way to achieve the goal here. You can use the standard AE t bar set up and modify the chassis to lower the roll center (Laje, Hyperform) or leave the chassis alone and change where the center of the pivot is on the t bar (OD, Slapmaster)

Sorry, I'm not answering your question A one-off chassis would be quite expensive, like at least double. PM me if you would like more info
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:54 AM   #25271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I think I have some insight as to why Laje would want a lowered roll center. I have heard that the carpet used on European tracks is different than the carpet we run on in the US and is lower in bite. I started wondering about this because of the way the SE2006 I have came built. Like the lowered .063 t bar and a green shock spring. All the team car setups I got from them were something like that. On our OD12 cars we ran a lowered t bar when we were having bite issues at one of our local tracks and it helped plant the rear better. Add to that that they (Team Laje) run mod only, no stock or 19t
Yes, the lower bite in Europe is why we (sometimes) run a lower T-bar - whichever way you do it. The carpets are pretty much the same, but the Jack-the-Gripper additive is much lower bite. However, at big meetings, like our Nationals, the EuroChamps and the 2006 Worlds in Italy, this isn't as much of an issue. HTH
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Old 04-30-2007, 12:01 PM   #25272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I just measured my SE and it uses standard L4 spacing. So unless the Darkside front is different no need to make a special chassis for Scottrick. Well, you could do one with his initials in it
The front end spacing is very close, not certain of the on-center spacing on the L4 though.

-E
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Old 04-30-2007, 12:03 PM   #25273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Excellent--thanks Michael.

MAN...just went to their site. Glad I don't want a full kit--at $420 they'd better send someone to drive the thing for me!! And I mean somebody GOOD.

Oh, and Eric has seen me drive...the only initials he's going to put in my chassis are "IRS" so no one knows that's a Darkside being beaten into component parts (and less).

Or an orange triangle on the back...

Scottrik
or a yellow rookie stripe perhaps?
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:41 PM   #25274
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Originally Posted by odpurple
I think I have some insight as to why Laje would want a lowered roll center. I have heard that the carpet used on European tracks is different than the carpet we run on in the US and is lower in bite. I started wondering about this because of the way the SE2006 I have came built. Like the lowered .063 t bar and a green shock spring. All the team car setups I got from them were something like that. On our OD12 cars we ran a lowered t bar when we were having bite issues at one of our local tracks and it helped plant the rear better. Add to that that they (Team Laje) run mod only, no stock or 19t
yeah,i figured thats why they were doing it but when i actually started messing with it,i realized that the rear traction is added by limiting the leverage for roll in the front of the car(the chassis).so pretty much it was just creating less front traction through eliminating some of the side load created by weight transfer when cornering.i have been able to limit front traction in many ways so i decided to steer clear of this.
i really dont like pocketing it either because of the construction of carbon fiber.the center core or center of the panel is your 0 degree layer that the whole panel is constructed from.then the 90 and 45 degree layers are layed over and under that layer in a mirrored fashion.then the panel is pressed under heat allowing for the resin to expand but the carbon weave does not.then it cools down and now the resin contracts and once again,the carbon fiber does not.this creates a ton of stress due to the expansion and contraction of the resin and the lack on it from the fiber itself.the panel is kept flat in panel form due to the equal stresses created by the identicle layers on each side of the center core.if you pocket a layer and break out a big area of the wall or edge of the chassis,it releaves some of the stress from one side only and you lose the equal tension pulling that panel or section flat.this is where you will run into the bowing problems.if you stay inside the wall you have a good chance of keeping it flat.tooling choice and how it is cut also comes into play but in a nutshell,i only do it when i have to.in this case,i found other ways to get the same effect.
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Old 04-30-2007, 04:00 PM   #25275
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Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Just make it a clean race. Their is no need for us to hack each other. We now have an up and new comer to 12th scale that might give P2 a run for his money later on. P2 knows who the new comer is. Looks like David is the least of my worries now. Great, more work. I hate to work at something that is suppose to be fun.
Carlos, Who is this up and new comer? reading the past few posts I hope you don't quit. I need you out there too. I'll help you get your car setup the way it needs to be. Just remember that, sometimes you need to step back in order to move forward. See you in 2 weeks...P2, in Japan
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