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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-29-2007, 08:15 PM   #25246
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Excellent--thanks Michael.

MAN...just went to their site. Glad I don't want a full kit--at $420 they'd better send someone to drive the thing for me!! And I mean somebody GOOD.

Oh, and Eric has seen me drive...the only initials he's going to put in my chassis are "IRS" so no one knows that's a Darkside being beaten into component parts (and less).

Or an orange triangle on the back...

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Old 04-29-2007, 08:24 PM   #25247
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I'd rather have the front end like the old EV10...1 CF lower piece that goes all the way across with no lower pivot ball. This way the lower arms are always level. I'm not real fond of the 3 link upper...I imagine it does make it easer to adjust camber after setting caster but still adjusting the 2 lower links will still effect both caster and camber and use the 3rd link basically to correct camber. However the old Trinity upper pivot was too wide really for 1/12th scale and I used to have a hard time getting enough steering throw with it...so the 3rd link would help correct that as well...hmmm...The one I like best was a CF lower arm ala EV10/Revolver 12 with a solid upper arm like the AE.
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Old 04-29-2007, 08:24 PM   #25248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Which is truly amazing considering you're absolutely blind to the faults with the Gen-X that everybody else sees.

Guys--it looks to me like the Speed Evil front end could be (maybe...) bolted directly to cars using an Associated-style front end (looks like Associated/Calandra lower arms, upper pivot ball holders, steering blocks, camber adjusters)? Unless the width becomes absolutely critical with the plate between. I likee...I'd like to tryee. I'm just not (personally) keen on T-bar cars, so I'd like to get a front end or two (ideally just the bespoke pieces) and try it on a couple of my rides.

Maybe if width IS critical if someone could give me the center-center measurement across the front and I'll see if I can persuade Mr. Darkside to drill me a chassis accordingly.

Thanks,

Scottrik
whatever dude
that frontend is nothing new its been done before.
it dose work ok its a little more work to keep it.
the gen x is no work to keep it.
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Old 04-29-2007, 08:49 PM   #25249
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Pretty much everything has been done before. You looked at a picture of the Laje front end and bashed it when you have had absolutely no experience with it. Truth is, the Laje front end has a couple of refinements that have never been done on that type of setup that make it more adjustable than anything that's ever been made.
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:02 PM   #25250
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so is there some sort of way to measure say caster to change it from stock? The stock way to build the L4 front end works good at most places I race, but when I went to the roar nats I found myself making many changes to make it suit the level of traction there is.
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:42 PM   #25251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Pretty much everything has been done before. You looked at a picture of the Laje front end and bashed it when you have had absolutely no experience with it. Truth is, the Laje front end has a couple of refinements that have never been done on that type of setup that make it more adjustable than anything that's ever been made.
now now OD, not all of us have been around since the beginning of (RC) time

OD12 is 95% done. Only problem is, where I will run such a beautiful car? I'm sure you gave me a list of tarmac/outdoor/whatever tracks before in the area, but could you please tell me them again?
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:54 PM   #25252
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Ehh? Damn teenagers! Get off my lawn!
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:27 PM   #25253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Ehh? Damn teenagers! Get off my lawn!
but I want to come inside and learn the ways of the grumpy, yet surprisingly fast with a 12th scale old man. Then again this lawn is pretty comfortable. Have any lemonade?
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:49 AM   #25254
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I had no problems with the front end of my SE2007. Not only can you adjust the normal front end settings like castor/camber, etc, you can also adjust other settings like putting spacers between the lower and upper carbon braces to adjust the roll centre. Not sure how much that would help but it is something that you can't do with the AE/CRC front ends correct?
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:02 AM   #25255
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the old trinity front end was the best front end to date.it was a pain to adjust but was the best.that one looks very similar.hopefully it is easier to adjust.if it is,they have a damn good front end.
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:05 AM   #25256
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the only thing im not crazy about is the milled pocket under the Tbar but it is not a big deal.everything else looks great.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:49 AM   #25257
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hi mate, whats your problem with the chassis being milled out under the t-bar? It lowers the roll on the t-bar but if you want as per a standard height chassis, all you have to do is put spacers in to bring the whole assembly back up. i don't see it as a problem, just another thing to have as a chassis adjustment don't you think?

ps, the ONLY problem I had with the kit when new, is having to file a 45 degree chamfer under all the little prongs that stick out from the cross brace to hold the cells in. That was a pain in the arse to do but once done properly, you don't have to do again!
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:55 AM   #25258
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With the milled pocket the t-bar mount holes will wear out after just a few hits to the rear.
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:04 AM   #25259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
MAN...just went to their site. Glad I don't want a full kit--at $420 they'd better send someone to drive the thing for me!! And I mean somebody GOOD.
Ah...figured out how to make the Laje site read in USD rather than using an online converter. At $360 it doesn't seem quite so steep when one considers they're including ceramic bearings AND the car comes fully assembled.

Since RTR/ARTR are the trends overall in the RC hobby (cars AND planes) it would seem that Calandra, et al, might benefit from offering a "Pro-Built" car. I'm sure Frank has considered it, so there's probably more to it than it would seem. Most RTR's do come from China, etc, so the impact on RRP isn't so much where the qty even Frank would do doesn't justify that. It would just seem that there are would be some soccer moms (read: independent contractors) in his neighborhood for whom $50/kit would be GREAT money, he marks the kit price up $100 and viola. Of course that only works for direct sales...a RTR via such into retail channels would become prohibitive in a hurry.

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Old 04-30-2007, 09:10 AM   #25260
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Rats--double post. Having DSL troubles this morning. Makes completing my Grad project a bit tough...
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