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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-29-2007, 12:05 PM   #25231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
You've helped me make a very big decision. It was fun while it lasted. Cheers to all!
If you are giving up already then maybe I should as well do the same. It seems I can't get anybetter if i practice or listen to what people tell me to run. However, I won't sell my cars.
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Old 04-29-2007, 01:49 PM   #25232
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I have also got one of the SpeedEvil 2007 cars. Compared to what we would pay in the UK, the chassis is not that badly priced and you have to remember that hot ups like ceramic bearings, ceramic diff balls, etc are all in the kit as standard. The front end is similar to the Trinity front end but with a 3rd turnbuckle to adjust camber (used to be a right pain in the arse to adjust on the Trinity front end). Various other bits and bobs on there make it quite cool (chassis is milled out under the one t-bar pivot (front pivot is replaced by a plate), uses a 'proper' shock from a Associated 18th scale car, etc, etc). Jonas is happy to answer any questions on setting the chassis up (they have won the Swedish, French and Nordic champs quite a few times now). Used mine at the last Plymouth SW winter series meeting (same place/carpet as the National) and it was by far the best handling car,stright from the box I have had. Look forward to running it at this years National series as well as our local SW series. All the best, Chris.
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:20 PM   #25233
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That SpeedEvil 2007 is a very nice looking kit
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:51 PM   #25234
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i had a SpeedEvil 2006 until Jan of this year when i went to a CEFX-12 Evo2 to try it out. the SE worked exceptionally well and compared to other cars i've run steers exceptionally well and planted with the MH frontend without being twitchy.

when i got my car it was in the $270 zone but it didn't have ceramic bearings, etc. but they did include extras. the car comes fully assembled. also if you order...you can give them your frontend specs/settings you like and they will build yours accordingly. example: i requested my front be set-up similiar to 5 deg suspension block / 4-6 reactive caster / 1 deg neg camber. once i got the car i measured everything on the front so if i changed anything and screwed it up, i had a reference setting.

i would still own this car, but a friend (sponsored pan oval driver) begged me to sell it to him when he saw it stripped of radio gear. i gave in. the car has helped him immensely and added 2+ laps for him and within 1 of me now. he is not a slouch when it comes to onroad, but it's not his specialty. he liked the frontend feel compared to his other onroad 12th cars (he has many) so much, we asked/had Laje custom built a frondend for his 1/10 Leading Edge pan oval car which is narrower than the 1/10 MH frontend on the SE-10 onroad pan car. he loves it! and is thing of getting 2 more for his backup oval cars
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Old 04-29-2007, 06:12 PM   #25235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
You've helped me make a very big decision. It was fun while it lasted. Cheers to all!

David???!!!!

What's going on? Even though we never got to talk much while you were here in San Antonio for the races. I'd hate to see another racer get out.

Think about it before you sell things.

Ronnie
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Old 04-29-2007, 06:49 PM   #25236
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The speedevil sounds like an excellent car. Just one question: Does the instruction booklet do a good job of explaining how to adjust the front end?

I think this will be my next 12th scale.
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:12 PM   #25237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
The speedevil sounds like an excellent car. Just one question: Does the instruction booklet do a good job of explaining how to adjust the front end?

I think this will be my next 12th scale.
whats it look like is there any pics.
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:14 PM   #25238
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www.laje.se
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:21 PM   #25239
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i see nice way to do the t plate
but i do not like the front end
im not going to say why
im sher the car works but i see the problems with it
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:28 PM   #25240
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i got mine at the end of Oct 2005 right after ODPurple got his. (yeah he won) i waited till they had PAYPAL. when i asked them the same question. Jonas told me to go to the site or contact another American (OD) to exchange info as we were the only 2 with the car in the US. so....unless something has changed...the car comes assembled and there is no instruction book. you will have to go to their site for different frontend set-ups used by their team drivers. lots of info on their site. i messed around and ended up staying with the set-up i gave them to build into the cars frontend. if you get the car give them your favorite AE front set-up and they'll get you in the ball park right away. as someone mentioned earlier due to the third t-buckle this frontend is much easier to mess with than the Trinity/Kyosho frontend

the frontend, other than the 2 gold blocks and 2 graphite plates which they make, the rest is AE frontend parts, TI-tbuckles, ball cups, ball studs, 4-40 nuts, along with 2 Dubro parts. of course the AE front arms are lowered and milled/drilled on the top to accept the graphite plates. the only thing that was metric on my car was the ballstud and nut on the top pod plate for the shock to mount on. The pod plates are their own and use 4-40 screws like AE, CRC. etc. 2006 the rear diff was IRS...still looks the same on the 2007, tubes were CRC type on mine...looks like they gone to IRS Rugrat Dampner tubes on the 2007. the NTS on mine was machined from graphite...now is aluminum.

also if your considering the car for a race 3-weeks from now, you may have to order now or email Jonas for a timetable of your order getting to you.
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:39 PM   #25241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
i see nice way to do the t plate
but i do not like the front end
im not going to say why
im sher the car works but i see the problems with it
Which is truly amazing considering you're absolutely blind to the faults with the Gen-X that everybody else sees.

Guys--it looks to me like the Speed Evil front end could be (maybe...) bolted directly to cars using an Associated-style front end (looks like Associated/Calandra lower arms, upper pivot ball holders, steering blocks, camber adjusters)? Unless the width becomes absolutely critical with the plate between. I likee...I'd like to tryee. I'm just not (personally) keen on T-bar cars, so I'd like to get a front end or two (ideally just the bespoke pieces) and try it on a couple of my rides.

Maybe if width IS critical if someone could give me the center-center measurement across the front and I'll see if I can persuade Mr. Darkside to drill me a chassis accordingly.

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:45 PM   #25242
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Yokomo also uses a NTS t-bar system (2-types) on their 12L4Y.

Hyperform also mills out their t-bar area on their chassis and Jari mills out areas for the t-bar pivots on the FF07 to lower the t-bar, don't know if the Carpet Ripper has this done also

i believe the SE-12 frontend spacing/mounting is AE standard width
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:48 PM   #25243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Which is truly amazing considering you're absolutely blind to the faults with the Gen-X that everybody else sees.

Guys--it looks to me like the Speed Evil front end could be (maybe...) bolted directly to cars using an Associated-style front end (looks like Associated/Calandra lower arms, upper pivot ball holders, steering blocks, camber adjusters)? Unless the width becomes absolutely critical with the plate between. I likee...I'd like to tryee. I'm just not (personally) keen on T-bar cars, so I'd like to get a front end or two (ideally just the bespoke pieces) and try it on a couple of my rides.

Maybe if width IS critical if someone could give me the center-center measurement across the front and I'll see if I can persuade Mr. Darkside to drill me a chassis accordingly.

Thanks,

Scottrik
Scottrik,
Because the suspension arms are bridged by a cf plate, the Laje front end will only fit if the front end uses standard AE spacing. I'll measure the spacing on my SE 2006 and post.

Team Laje also sent me some PDF files with all kinds of set up information. In addition they gave me various team drivers set ups from a bunch of different races. They are nice guys to deal with; all in all you couldn't get a car from a more helpful company
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:49 PM   #25244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Which is truly amazing considering you're absolutely blind to the faults with the Gen-X that everybody else sees.

Guys--it looks to me like the Speed Evil front end could be (maybe...) bolted directly to cars using an Associated-style front end (looks like Associated/Calandra lower arms, upper pivot ball holders, steering blocks, camber adjusters)? Unless the width becomes absolutely critical with the plate between. I likee...I'd like to tryee. I'm just not (personally) keen on T-bar cars, so I'd like to get a front end or two (ideally just the bespoke pieces) and try it on a couple of my rides.

Maybe if width IS critical if someone could give me the center-center measurement across the front and I'll see if I can persuade Mr. Darkside to drill me a chassis accordingly.

Thanks,

Scottrik
Mmm... Possible
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:56 PM   #25245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Mmm... Possible
I just measured my SE and it uses standard L4 spacing. So unless the Darkside front is different no need to make a special chassis for Scottrick. Well, you could do one with his initials in it
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