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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-06-2003, 06:28 AM   #2506
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Kansasracer - you start by removing the Associated/Yokomo dampener post. Then insert the Paragon post till the threads bottom out, using the nut to lock the threads on top of the standoff. Now install the threaded body on the post. Do not use a spring on the bottom. Install the dampening puck on the threaded body with o-ring as used on the other version. Place the top pod plate on top of the puck. Now install the top puck with o-ring. Put a spring on top of that, then install the threaded nut. This piece is rare so don't loose it. I cut a piece of fuel tubing and put on top of the nut so it won't spin off during racing. Be carefull here that the tubing does not touch the center post and restrict movement up and down. Now set the tension you want. You can use different thicknesses of lub or dampener suryp on the pucks to get varying degrees of dampening. Good luck and good racing.
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Old 03-06-2003, 07:28 AM   #2507
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Default Sanyo vs. GP

Just wanted to know which batteries i should be running for 4 cell 19 spec...sanyo 3000's or gp 3300's? i have a pack of gp's but i think im getting killed as far as speed goes because the gp's have lower voltage than the sanyos. the gp pack runs good tho. i have been seeing lots of cars using the sanyo 3000's and was wondering if those would be better because they have high voltage and are a lot lighter than the gp's. Masami's yok used 3000's for the mod races....need some more packs so lemme know what you guys are running.
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Old 03-06-2003, 10:05 AM   #2508
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Trips-Old skool front end. I am no fan of the AE Re-active front end. Too fragile-changes too much. I can go the whoe season on the same two uprights. After a couple months I will measure everything carefully (camber, caster, axle height) and re-shim with paper and card stock as they do bend or fatigue a bit after-oh about a 100 hits!!!!
I'll post a pic of my cars front end so you see what I mean about the shimming....
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Old 03-06-2003, 10:13 AM   #2509
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Front end shimmed up to make them the same height and same camber and caster.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rev2003.jpg (62.1 KB, 150 views)
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Old 03-06-2003, 02:23 PM   #2510
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Anyone have the part numbers for the 'old skol' front end... is there a difference between the CRC and the Speedmerchant?

Thanks, Eric
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Old 03-06-2003, 02:36 PM   #2511
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Ray..

I still have some of those arms for my 10L.
where did you get that center blue insert in the arms...I'm assuming that will definately strengthen the arm quite a bit.
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Old 03-06-2003, 03:23 PM   #2512
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The Blue piece is a dress kit part from Speedmerchant. Go to Hobbyect. They have some there.

EricF, is there a difference in what? The cars are similar, but the Rev3 has more adjustment. There are little differences here and there. You'd have to really look at them to tell.
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Old 03-06-2003, 04:21 PM   #2513
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Scrad... to clarify, I ment is there a difference between the assoc. and spdmrchnt. parts... or are the parts made by assoc. and sold to spdmrchnt. for use on there cars.

Eric
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Old 03-06-2003, 05:40 PM   #2514
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hey, Here in colorado, A guy wants to start making yokomo style 1/12 scale chassis. Pretty much anything you want. longer wheel base, shorter wheel base, thicker, anything. If interested post a reply.
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Old 03-06-2003, 05:42 PM   #2515
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I forgot to mention that they can be made of colored carbon fiber. Silver, Blue, And gold so far.
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Old 03-06-2003, 05:50 PM   #2516
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Quote:
Originally posted by coloradoyokomo
hey, Here in colorado, A guy wants to start making yokomo style 1/12 scale chassis. Pretty much anything you want. longer wheel base, shorter wheel base, thicker, anything. If interested post a reply.
How 'bout other chassis? TC3, Xray, F1 etc.
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Old 03-06-2003, 06:09 PM   #2517
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Need some help while on the topic of Ol' School front end...

Which way does the off-set go?

Manual rrom the old 12L days it shows it goes to the rear.
From some of the new manuals, it goes towards the front?

Do drivers ever use this as a tuning aid?

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Old 03-06-2003, 06:09 PM   #2518
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EricF, I believe that they are associated parts that are repackaged in speedmerchant bags. But the rev3 chassis is all their design. So pretty much the old skool front end and the rear pod plates are associated and the micro shock. I hope that answers some of your questions.
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Old 03-06-2003, 06:42 PM   #2519
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Post OLD SKOOL

Tres, I just pulled an old 10L off the shelf. Looking at the front susp the offset you speak of is the King Pin. It is not centerd on the susp piece, one way it is slightly forward of center, the other way it would back of center. In this car they are mounted forward. Are these pieces the same size as the 1/12 version or are they larger.
I have 1/12 cars both with the dynamic susp. ( for carpet racing)I would like to try the old school front. Is the 1/10 interchangeable. How do you set caster on the old school. I'm curious to see what answers you get on tuning. Iwould think it would affect steering. I haven't answered any of your questions only asked more.
JUST CURIOUS.
Terry
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Old 03-06-2003, 06:52 PM   #2520
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Yes, they are interchangable.

You can make adjustments in caster/camber by using the angled shims under them.

Mine are mounted foward also.

But, in the pic, thay are mounted towards the rear.....????
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