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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-23-2007, 06:37 PM   #25141
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I will call Calrk tomarrow and find out officially, but that is what he told us a couple of weeks ago and again last weekend, because Paul said he would not be here to race that weekend.
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Old 04-23-2007, 11:01 PM   #25142
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Four anonymous 19t motors guys, Motor Master CTX 4-cell test mode. Don't know if these numbers 'tell' me anything....

#1- 11.52 amps/ 21,270 rpms

#2- 9.10 amps/ 24,780 rpms

#3- 9.51 amps/ 25,500 rpms

#4- 11.98 amps/ 25,230 rpms

Our layout has a tight infield w/ kind of a long sweeper. Guidance is needed Master 12th ones...
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:51 AM   #25143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
I will call Calrk tomarrow and find out officially, but that is what he told us a couple of weeks ago and again last weekend, because Paul said he would not be here to race that weekend.
No worries... Will find another time to race down there. I will be there for the 5th....
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:00 AM   #25144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxratter
Hello,
I just picked up the new GTB 4 cell and 13.5 sintered rotor motrr combo for my 3.2R

I think I have a 100 spur in it...(100 ok?)

Which pinion I should use?

Is there are handy chart out there somewhere?
Thanks...
Here's one I created for my own use.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12th scale rollout.pdf (25.5 KB, 158 views)
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:29 AM   #25145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
No worries... Will find another time to race down there. I will be there for the 5th....
You will be catching the tail end of Fiesta then, but downtown is were you want to be for the partying.
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Old 04-24-2007, 03:05 PM   #25146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
No worries... Will find another time to race down there. I will be there for the 5th....
Did you guys kiss and make up

I wont be there on the 5th....I'll be in Japan Plus, I don't think HTSA is racing that day. I will be there on the 12th.

There are many clubs on the river walk, Sunset Station is by the Alamo Dome.

Hope you and Mike Who? Mike Jones.....I mean Dumas come down sometime.
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Old 04-24-2007, 03:43 PM   #25147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Four anonymous 19t motors guys, Motor Master CTX 4-cell test mode. Don't know if these numbers 'tell' me anything....

#1- 11.52 amps/ 21,270 rpms

#2- 9.10 amps/ 24,780 rpms

#3- 9.51 amps/ 25,500 rpms

#4- 11.98 amps/ 25,230 rpms

Our layout has a tight infield w/ kind of a long sweeper. Guidance is needed Master 12th ones...
#1 and #4 will be more torquey. #2 and #3 will be slower accelerating, but faster in the long run. 1/12th is nice and light, so not alot of torque is needed, so I would go with #3. #3 because it draws less amps but has alot of RPMs so speed and run time should balance out. Then again, I'm not EA, Brood, ETC...
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:35 PM   #25148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93
#1 and #4 will be more torquey. #2 and #3 will be slower accelerating, but faster in the long run. 1/12th is nice and light, so not alot of torque is needed, so I would go with #3. #3 because it draws less amps but has alot of RPMs so speed and run time should balance out. Then again, I'm not EA, Brood, ETC...
Thanks alot Steve Anyone else w/ an opinion?
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:53 PM   #25149
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try not to put too much value into the numbers, the best dyno is the track, alot of variants can squew the numbers.
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:03 PM   #25150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Four anonymous 19t motors guys, Motor Master CTX 4-cell test mode. Don't know if these numbers 'tell' me anything....

#1- 11.52 amps/ 21,270 rpms

#2- 9.10 amps/ 24,780 rpms

#3- 9.51 amps/ 25,500 rpms

#4- 11.98 amps/ 25,230 rpms

Our layout has a tight infield w/ kind of a long sweeper. Guidance is needed Master 12th ones...
JayBee - The Motor Master runs with just a small sensor to read rpm, (I have an older unit) so this is just at an almost free wheel spin. So the data may not give you a good reading as how the motor will race. It is also possible with the correct gearing to get almost any decent motor to run well.

I agree with the comment on motor #3 that was made. However I would not toss out #4. I have found that some motors that have a high free wheeling amp draw, sometimes do not increase amp draw as much when a load is applied. To get a better idea, I have used Fantom and CS dyno's with flywheels and Tekin and Buds with a slave motor. At the track, the simple Buds has been able to give me some dirrection as it allows me 3 different load settings. I then pick the motor that has the least increase in amp draw and decrease in rpm. (assuming the rpm and amp draw are with in reason) Other words, it has a bigger sweat spot.

The motor of choice here has been Komodo's but I have run a Corally Spec 19 that dyno's soft but works well in the 1/12 scale. On the other end I have several Atlas based Integy Red Can's which seem to have as much power as a 12 turn!!! But I have been able to drain VERY good 4200's in 8min with it! Now if I could just drive the car!!
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:19 AM   #25151
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Thank you...
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Old 04-26-2007, 01:09 PM   #25152
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Ok these past few races myself and a couple other of our 1/12th racers have been struggling with rear grip. The track is an outdoor asphault parking lot track. The asphault is in great shape however the sealant they sprayed makes it difficult to get any traction on without heavy application of sugar water. All of us have been using pink or white rears (mostly pink) with purple fronts. This last race a buddy decided to try all magenta tires and his car was much better. To my understanding magenta is a harder compound then pink and shouldn't get as good grip. Is there some conditions where it would actually get more grip? I've got a set of black fronts and pink rears coming in that I'll be trying in the next race. Any other tire suggestions I should be looking at?
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Old 04-26-2007, 01:18 PM   #25153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Ok these past few races myself and a couple other of our 1/12th racers have been struggling with rear grip. The track is an outdoor asphault parking lot track. The asphault is in great shape however the sealant they sprayed makes it difficult to get any traction on without heavy application of sugar water. All of us have been using pink or white rears (mostly pink) with purple fronts. This last race a buddy decided to try all magenta tires and his car was much better. To my understanding magenta is a harder compound then pink and shouldn't get as good grip. Is there some conditions where it would actually get more grip? I've got a set of black fronts and pink rears coming in that I'll be trying in the next race. Any other tire suggestions I should be looking at?
What traction compounds are you using?
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Old 04-26-2007, 01:27 PM   #25154
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It varies...I typically like Trinity Red Dot (the old version was so much better) but ran out and some FX 2 that I used this past race. Other guys are using normal FX and a few using suntan lotion.

When we spray the track we use a gallon of fruit punch suryp mixed 50/50 with water for a total of 2 gallons on the track of the mixture.
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Old 04-26-2007, 01:41 PM   #25155
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According to CRC's foam tire chart on low grip asphault you should run Magenta fronts and Gray backs - http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=27 1/12 is at the bottom of the page.

JayBee, what 1/12 chassis would you say is the best off the shelf for running at SIR?
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