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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-03-2003, 06:38 PM   #2491
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Default WOOHOOOO BIG TEN BABY

YEAH the Big Ten really needed a national championship.... and there was no better way to do it than against(so they say) the best team in college football history on a (was it) 35 game win streak?

The problem in the BIG TEN is that the top teams always picked each other off or got bit by an underatted inter conference team.

I would like to take a look at the front end parts you have this Sat.. Will you be at the track?
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Old 03-03-2003, 06:51 PM   #2492
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David- Any dates possibly on the new diffs and castor blocks? I emailed Dave Irrgang on if he would make me a black graphite axle D-ring 12 ball diff like yours but of course he wouldnt , lol. So i am just waiting until then, although i have been very pleased with my current pinned one, the graphite axles look really trick, and are more resistant to getting grooves in the axles when bearing go, lol. And i was planning on running a dynamic strut front end at the paved nats this year and hopefully i can get my hands on the IRS version. Also what size is the screw that clamps the claming hub, mine is almost completely stripped out so i cant get it tight fully consequently my rear track gets adjusted slightly during the course of a race, lol.

Thanks! and hopefully you can come up soon and race at BBT again!
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Old 03-03-2003, 09:52 PM   #2493
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Switchblade- I'm not sure i get your question, could you clarify for us. Are asking how to mount the ball caps on the front suspension ball studs? If so simply press down from the top of the ball cap until you hear a click. This of course assumes that you have mounted the ball studs to the front suspension plate in this example. You may need to get the plier out and gently squeeze the ball cap on while holding it in place. Usually if you try to mount the ball cap on from the side it slips around but if you can do it then you can simply rotate it back to an on top orientation.
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Old 03-03-2003, 09:53 PM   #2494
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Stormperson - Have you spoken to the owner of SpeedMerchant, regarding importing some Rev3 kits into Australia?

I also tried sending an email direct through their website, it appears they do not want ot sell kits, which is a shame as it looks like a very nice car.
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Old 03-04-2003, 04:44 AM   #2495
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I am so sorry, it slipped my mind completetly. I hadnt seen him for a few weeks after we had the conversation, so i forgot, i am really sorry. I am going to the nats with him this week so i should get a chance to talk about it with him. whats your email again? and were you able to contact speedmerchant through the site? or..?
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Old 03-04-2003, 05:29 AM   #2496
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Stormperson, thanks email is braddvercoe@hotmail.com

And no myself and two others i race with have never received any replies
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Old 03-04-2003, 08:11 AM   #2497
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I am sorry to hear you guys are having a problem reaching Speedmerchant. But you can buy from hobbyetc on line. I'll check and see if they have kits in stock and get back to you.

You wont be dissapointed with the car. I let a guy who has been struggling in 12th scale all year use my Rev.3 for the whole day last Sunday and he was pleasantly suprised how fast and especially how smooth the handling was. SO much easier to drive than his Carpet Knife and his modifed RC12L3. Some of that has to do with my car being very, very good right now. Its basically perfect as far as I am concerned. He went faster than 4 guys who regularly beat him every Sunday. So he basically moved from the middle of B to the bottom of the A-main with my car.
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Old 03-04-2003, 04:25 PM   #2498
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Rayhuang - Yes i saw you can buy online, but we were hoping to get dist rights in Australia, to help promote 12th in Australia, Currently there is only one source of 12th cars and parts, while they are pretty good, variety and competition are the spice of life.
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Old 03-05-2003, 08:53 AM   #2499
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Hey rayhuang

What kind of track are you running on??? Whats your spring setup, front and rear??? I'm thinking about getting a Rev.3. Most of my racing will be done on carpet, but when I'm home it'll be on an indoor asphalt track(SoCal).


Thanks

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Old 03-05-2003, 09:50 AM   #2500
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Default Current set-up

My Rev.3 is set up for good steering, but more than anything-to be smooth and totally neutral in handling. I have run on three very different carpet tracks and the set-up has stayed very similar.

try this. O.22 front springs, Blue side and a Wolfe Black on the center with 80 wt. Ae oil. Med Hydra in Dampenr tubes. If you want more steering in-go to 0.20 front springs. If you want it more aggressive in transition, go to white sides.

I think you'll really like it. I is very tuneable chassis. And easy to tune.

Ray
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Old 03-05-2003, 03:01 PM   #2501
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I was running the white springs and 22's in the front, but ended up going back to orange and 20's in the front. With doube pink tires in front. I liked the turn in of the white springs, but it would push in the middle of the turn.
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Old 03-05-2003, 03:04 PM   #2502
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need a hand...

Got the Ti dampening post from Paragon, but for the life of me can't figure it out. Can anyone lend a hand?

BTW, I am running a Yok YRX-12 Worlds. Just needed some more adjustability....

Any help would be appreciated!!!!
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Old 03-05-2003, 09:22 PM   #2503
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I normally run white sides, .20 fronts, as well as purple fronts but with saucing the inside 90% of the tire. it gives you alot of steering but it is very driveable.
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Old 03-05-2003, 11:36 PM   #2504
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rayhuang...

Are those spring suggestions for a car with the old skool front end or the strut front end?

T
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Old 03-06-2003, 12:22 AM   #2505
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Hey rayhuang

Thanks!!! I'll start my spring order with that setup, and go one spring on either side to get going.

I thought Rev.3's were all old school front ends. I've got a 12L3 with the New front end but I like the feeling of the old school front end. I'm about a half second faster per lap.

Thanks Again!!!

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