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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-16-2007, 02:48 PM   #24991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Although I am interested in trying that new car Jason....Just waiting to here if it can take a licking and keep on ticking...cause I am known to put a little beating on my cars...LOL

-Shookie <><

I can tell you that the DB12R holds set-up like no other 1/12 I have ever used. Pretty incredible actually - the car will not tweak unless you find a way to break it. The pod self-centers and "de-tweaks" itself every time. I have been working on set-ups on one for close to 2 months without any tweak issue.
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Old 04-16-2007, 03:02 PM   #24992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Preisinger
I can tell you that the DB12R holds set-up like no other 1/12 I have ever used. Pretty incredible actually - the car will not tweak unless you find a way to break it. The pod self-centers and "de-tweaks" itself every time. I have been working on set-ups on one for close to 2 months without any tweak issue.
The car looked awesome at the Mid Atlantic Carpet Wars. Kris are you going to run it at the eXpress Paved Champsionship race?
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Old 04-16-2007, 03:46 PM   #24993
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thanks for the input kris,im glad to see the car is working well bro.

like kris said,i have yet to have any tweak or break issues with the new car.it has been rock solid at our local tracks and been extremely fast as well.i still have not seen one break besides front arms.and that hasnt been common either.i have to say that i am very impressed with the function and look of the car.i really tried to bullet proof the car because i am probably one of the laziest guys in the pits that you will ever meet. i wont even cut my motor unless it is a decent sized race. last thing i wanted was to have to change parts.the car has been very easy to work on and user friendly.we have been working on the ideal setup for the car and it is getting faster and easier to drive every time out.it very nice to be able to be able to manipulate the handling of the car.i have been able to go as far as having extreme push to over aggressive.now i think i have it right where i want it.i need to run it at a few different tracks to see how it changes to each surface but as of now,it has taken to 3 different tracks extremely well setting track records at each.i am very excited about the full overall look and performance of this car.
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:14 PM   #24994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&B Racing
I currently have a Gen X and my son has the Darkside MX-2. We run real close to each other on the track. I can put in the quickest lap time but can't put enough togeather to have TQ. My son is more consistant and out qualifies me almost every time we go out. Last time out he didn't go so I used his Darkside to try it out. What I found was the first qualifier with his setup was equal to what I was doing with my Gen X. After tuning, I was quicker and the car was easier to drive than my Gen X. I'm going to get a new MX-2 for the fall season and unload the Gen X.

djb
if you where running the same setup with the new front end i can see why you would do better with the darkside car.

you have to detune the gen x's front end

this is what i was told by someone that runs that car.
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:16 PM   #24995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Wow the last fifteen posts seemed alot like a chat lounge....LOL

I found that the GenX is too sensitive for intermediate drivers....

I have to say though the Batts down the center has me a little interested as well.
-Shookie <><
You know, I ran PRC's Q-12 until I tried a Gen-X in December of this year. I sold it within 5 weeks and your description is dead on. Just could not put it into words!!

I did switch to a Darkside Mx2 (I have the silver, aka softer chassis and black stiffer chassis) and was able to move from the B-main to A-main locally. Car really felt much better to me, turns when I want with out feeling like it is to twitchy. Car, other than the original silver chassis, has taken some hard hits with out much damage.

Give it a try, you might like it.
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:22 PM   #24996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&B Racing
I currently have a Gen X and my son has the Darkside MX-2. We run real close to each other on the track. I can put in the quickest lap time but can't put enough togeather to have TQ. My son is more consistant and out qualifies me almost every time we go out. Last time out he didn't go so I used his Darkside to try it out. What I found was the first qualifier with his setup was equal to what I was doing with my Gen X. After tuning, I was quicker and the car was easier to drive than my Gen X. I'm going to get a new MX-2 for the fall season and unload the Gen X.

djb
I seem to recall this same converstion at the Plex during a snow storm!!!

What's taking you so long???? Darkside is working on a 007 chassis that should be ready for this fall. I'd wait till it's out. Looks to be worth it!!!
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:44 PM   #24997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
if you where running the same setup with the new front end i can see why you would do better with the darkside car.

you have to detune the gen x's front end

this is what i was told by someone that runs that car.
Explain what you mean by "detune".

To be technical, the frontend setups are different to each on our likings. We both use about the same caster, camber and toe settings. I use the CRC springs while he uses the ASC springs. He also has some other non-stock ASC parts in there but i don't know what all of them are. I have found that the CRC frontend is much more responsive to little changes. And the springs are better quality and are deformed less out of the package.

djb
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:47 PM   #24998
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
I seem to recall this same converstion at the Plex during a snow storm!!!

What's taking you so long???? Darkside is working on a 007 chassis that should be ready for this fall. I'd wait till it's out. Looks to be worth it!!!
That's the plan! Let the nitro season run its course and get the newest one this fall. Isn't it fun racing in the snow? I'm just glad that I didn't have an 8 hr drive home.

djb
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:05 PM   #24999
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some of the darty feel may have been coming from the rear end also.for the most part,the front ends are all pretty similar and really shouldnt create a serious issue.twitchy darty feeling sounds like a rear end problem.just throwing some suggestions.
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:10 PM   #25000
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
I seem to recall this same converstion at the Plex during a snow storm!!!

What's taking you so long???? Darkside is working on a 007 chassis that should be ready for this fall. I'd wait till it's out. Looks to be worth it!!!
oh? what's the 007 version look like so far?
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:43 PM   #25001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
The car looked awesome at the Mid Atlantic Carpet Wars. Kris are you going to run it at the eXpress Paved Champsionship race?
Hey Steve. Thanks. I may be running it if we get a decent 1/12 class. I never ran 1/12 asphalt, so it will be at least be 'an experience'.
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:17 PM   #25002
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I figured as long as there are no carpet tracks in the area anymore, it was a good time for my long planned teardown on the Rev4. Got 'er all gussied up, now, too. Maybe eventually, I'll break down and pick up a GTB4 and stuff it into this thing and get it back on the track again.
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:34 PM   #25003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
some of the darty feel may have been coming from the rear end also.for the most part,the front ends are all pretty similar and really shouldnt create a serious issue.twitchy darty feeling sounds like a rear end problem.just throwing some suggestions.
its the front trust me and it could be tires too.
(alot of ppl dont )
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Old 04-16-2007, 07:34 PM   #25004
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ApexSpeed, where did you get that front brace?
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Old 04-16-2007, 08:28 PM   #25005
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Originally Posted by B&B Racing
That's the plan! Let the nitro season run its course and get the newest one this fall. Isn't it fun racing in the snow? I'm just glad that I didn't have an 8 hr drive home.

djb
Drive home was easy as we stayed the eveing. So we'll be back in October!!
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