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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-12-2007, 05:36 PM   #24886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I had always heard before that link cars were better on carpet because they were more agressive in steering then t-bar cars and t-bar cars were better on asphault. I had read that this was because the weight transfer from rear to front under deceleration was faster in a link car. I definately do agree that link cars seem too softly sprung in the roll. It is strange though because by feel my link car with the stiff springs feels stiffer in roll then my t-bar car. But you see the difference in the chassis where the link car the edges of the chassis are worn more then that of the t-bar car. This is one of the reasons why I switched from my CRC to the Darkside. The Darkside has spring mounting positions that can be more outboard then other link cars giving the spring better leverage and stiffer roll.

Anyway...I have an idea for one that is neither t-bar or mono pivot. Unfortunately I like the equipment to design it in CAD and cut a prototype
the T bar will roll less than a standard link car due to the progressive spring tension.the darkside car from what it looks like,will roll less than a standard link from the layout of the batteries down the center.this would actually not roll as much being that the weight is in the dead zone.the springs will have more of an effect or give the effect of a stiffer feel due to the lack of lateral weight transfer.it will actually need those lighter springs.the wide spring layout also will increase the leverage for a very smoothe controlled feel.it is a very unique setup and i would be interested in trying one just to see the reaction of the car and the feel.this is similar to the losi touring car.guys are running super soft springs on them because they dont need the stiff ones to control the roll.
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Old 04-12-2007, 05:38 PM   #24887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
With my link cars I find I have to run a stiffer front spring then I do with my t-bar cars and a stiffer front tire or I run into too much steering. tire wear for me has always been pretty even with my friends running t-bar cars and better then some.

i think this is due to the forward weight of the link cars.they will dump the nose to due a forward weight bias
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Old 04-12-2007, 05:41 PM   #24888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
by the way OD,the car looks pimp bro.we need to swap cars for a weekend sometime.i would love to take it for a spin
Yeah, I spun it Tuesday for a few laps, it was pretty nice. The 9x2 was a bit much for the 60x35 foot track we run on, though
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Old 04-12-2007, 05:52 PM   #24889
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that tight with a 9 sounds like a hanfull dude. looks great though.was that pic a before or after shot?
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Old 04-12-2007, 06:03 PM   #24890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
that tight with a 9 sounds like a hanfull dude. looks great though.was that pic a before or after shot?
It was more than a handfull! I don't know what I was thinking
Actually I built it for the big track in Stockton but its closed for the summer now, guess I'd better put a 19 in.

The pics I posted here were before, but I didn't hurt it. I'm always careful with a new baby
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:32 PM   #24891
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I was at the race Scottrik was talking about with all the broken parts. I think the track was very car freindly, soft barriers. I use a 12l type front end with irs lowerd arms on my flexi ffo7 and have had no problems. I will most likely put the gen x front end on it this next season to compare them.
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:42 PM   #24892
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Originally Posted by odpurple
It was more than a handfull! I don't know what I was thinking
Actually I built it for the big track in Stockton but its closed for the summer now, guess I'd better put a 19 in.

The pics I posted here were before, but I didn't hurt it. I'm always careful with a new baby
RRRRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIPPPPPPPPPPPPPPOOOOOOOOO OOONNNNNNNNNNNN

assuming it is open this summer
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:08 PM   #24893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
RRRRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIPPPPPPPPPPPPPPOOOOOOOOO OOONNNNNNNNNNNN

assuming it is open this summer
You go ahead and berm yourself to death at Ripon. Any track that has a corner called the "Launching Pad" is just wrong
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:32 PM   #24894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
You go ahead and berm yourself to death at Ripon. Any track that has a corner called the "Launching Pad" is just wrong
so where will you be running outdoors other then roar nats? groundpounders?
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Old 04-12-2007, 11:01 PM   #24895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
so where will you be running outdoors other then roar nats? groundpounders?
NorCal, GP, SWR, maybe a little Ripon if Ruben runs it
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Old 04-13-2007, 12:32 PM   #24896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i also change it if someone molests the rear of the car with twisting the piss out of it to see what it feels like.
That happens???
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Old 04-13-2007, 01:55 PM   #24897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the T bar will roll less than a standard link car due to the progressive spring tension.the darkside car from what it looks like,will roll less than a standard link from the layout of the batteries down the center.this would actually not roll as much being that the weight is in the dead zone.the springs will have more of an effect or give the effect of a stiffer feel due to the lack of lateral weight transfer.it will actually need those lighter springs.the wide spring layout also will increase the leverage for a very smoothe controlled feel.it is a very unique setup and i would be interested in trying one just to see the reaction of the car and the feel.this is similar to the losi touring car.guys are running super soft springs on them because they dont need the stiff ones to control the roll.
i got a chance to test drive anothers racers Darkside 1/12th car on carpet and the feel is sort of hard to descirbe. it is definitely different than any t-bar or link car i have ever driven. the car felt very planted and steered like the car was a 4wd sedan. he is running Parma 38 PU-F and PK-R's on it in stock class, he tried grays on the rear but due to the pack adding weight forward he said the car would lose complete rear traction at 6 min mark no matter what he did. don't know if he tried black or grey fronts? the car for him has been a improvement since he has only broke into the 50+ lap barrier with it. 2-3 lap increase for him. this racer had no experience with 12th scale and was used to driving sedans. he also own a 12l4 and CRC 6-pack.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 04-13-2007 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 04-13-2007, 04:05 PM   #24898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
That happens???

MY GOD DOES IT!!!!!! i cant understand for the life of me why when someone checks out your car,they insist on twisting the rear pod till it cant go no more. it drives me nuts
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Old 04-13-2007, 04:08 PM   #24899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
i got a chance to test drive anothers racers Darkside 1/12th car on carpet and the feel is sort of hard to descirbe. it is definitely different than any t-bar or link car i have ever driven. the car felt very planted and steered like the car was a 4wd sedan. he is running Parma 38 PU-F and PK-R's on it in stock class, he tried grays on the rear but due to the pack adding weight forward he said the car would lose complete rear traction at 6 min mark no matter what he did. don't know if he tried black or grey fronts? the car for him has been a improvement since he has only broke into the 50+ lap barrier with it. 2-3 lap increase for him. this racer had no experience with 12th scale and was used to driving sedans. he also own a 12l4 and CRC 6-pack.
very interesting.i would really like to try one of those cars.eric,hook a brutha up it sounds like an interesting setup and seems to be reacting as expected but i never did ever run something that drove like that.the car has been doing very well and there seems to be many people doing well with it.i am very interested in seeing what a car like that drives like.
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:21 PM   #24900
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Jason and OD, have you tried running the XXX brushes in the motor? I was wondering what they would do as far as power-wise. I know that the ICE would trip when I tried to break it in at 2v with red springs +/-.
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