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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-25-2003, 02:54 PM   #2461
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the car is not tweaked...i got it all tweak free and running awesome before i put the new axle on...i won the A with it before. so all i did was throw the new axle on and it flips...i know its not tweaked. i really think its the narrower axle...so i have it spaced out now. should work good for this weekend.
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Old 02-25-2003, 06:17 PM   #2462
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Im really mad...i called trinity and they said they didn't have the manual and that it had been discontinued for 4 years.....now i have a car and don't know how to rebuild it if anything breaks looks similar the the rc12l3...i could just switch parts if it works I wouldn't have bought the car if i knew the correct name

anyone have a manual lying around

(o well )
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Old 02-25-2003, 07:46 PM   #2463
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Thanks Fellas O got it all pinned up in all now.. diff does seem much smoother being that I was using the smaller circle of diff balls which was rotating in the hole for the pin. It is nice in smooth now hope to see youall at Mimi's this sat.. maybe we can trade paint? I really appreciate the help.. now if i can just learn how to set the little tapered tweak springs and the shock
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Old 02-26-2003, 04:34 PM   #2464
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Default front end

is there any differnece with the associated front end or the trinity in terms of performance and mantience. is the trintity car able to hold 6 cells
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Old 02-26-2003, 04:51 PM   #2465
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The Trinity front end allows for easy adjustment of the Roll Center which affects steering reaction (initiation), front traction (amount of grip), and amount of roll. Camber Gain can also be ajusted and it's more rigid so that it doesn't seem to change settings as often/much.

Also the pivot balls seem to last longer on the Trinity front end and the steering blocks seem to last longer without developing slop. Finally the Trinity front end allows for the same settings of camber and castor on both sides which the Associated front end with its molded blocks often makes difficult to do.

The Associated front end is a little eaiser to adjust initially and parts may be easier to find depending on where you are.
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Old 02-28-2003, 09:36 AM   #2466
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I raced my Corally G2 last night, 3rd in the A but I wasn't happy with the car. I need a new car!
This thing is very old and 3rd hand, it handles very well and I get some incredibly quick laps but it is not consistent. There's lots of steering slop in the linkages and it's very worn. The rims that came with it were bent and wobble. It is partly due to the servo saver but it has about 10* slop left and right!

The championship is nearly over so there's no hurry but what should I get for 6-Cell stock?

L3, Six Pack, new Corally???

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Old 02-28-2003, 09:59 AM   #2467
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the crc for carpet 6 cells.
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Old 02-28-2003, 12:07 PM   #2468
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Thanks, that's what I was leaning towards.
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Old 02-28-2003, 12:52 PM   #2469
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LouisB - That is the way the steering is supposed to be on the Corally.
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:12 PM   #2470
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I know there's normally quite a lot of slop, but it is worse than on any other Corally at the track, there isn't a part on this car that isn't worn or damaged in some way. I wanted a new car anyway because the L3s are much faster than all but 1 G3.
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Old 02-28-2003, 03:51 PM   #2471
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Louis. I run a 4 cell 12M and have been really happy with it. It seems real easy to get it very balenced and it is easy to drive. Wer it not for my own stupidity i am sure i would have made the A at the last national. Also in the UK Parts support for Corally is better than any other Brand IMHO. It is now possible to buy the 12M with the 6 cell chassis, rather than use the 4 cell and add the extra side holders.
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Old 02-28-2003, 08:09 PM   #2472
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LouisB- Can you get parts pretty easily for a Trinity Switchblade 02 or an Assoc. L3?

MattW- How's 12th racing doing over there?
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Old 03-01-2003, 04:50 AM   #2473
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Parts support for any car isn't good where i live. It's different from the UK b/c either I order parts through my LHS (slow and unhelpful) or from the UK, or Holland. My LHS can get AE parts but not Corally, I don't know why. So I have to order my Corally parts from Holland.

MattW, is the SP12M fragile? That can be a big problem when my local track and my driving are combined!

darnold, I think it's even more difficult to get Trinity car parts.
MattW do you know of any mail-order/online shops in the UK that stock Switchblade parts?

For me AE or Corally would be just as difficult to get parts for.
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Old 03-01-2003, 05:07 AM   #2474
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darnold, It's a bit strange in many respects. Very regional, some parts of the country there is basically none at all, then in other parts there is a decent following. At one national this year we had 60 drivers, that was considdered good.

louis, as far as i know Trinity stuff is special order, i don't know of any shop that stocks it. There is a place down south called AMC that stocks some stuff, but no idea what. Why don't you order corally stuff from Corally UK?? That's where i get all my stuff from.
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Old 03-01-2003, 05:24 AM   #2475
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I could get parts from Corally UK, they sell direct, right? but it's cheaper (and takes the same time) to get stuff from Holland. The only parts i've broken are spur gears, my LHS can get RW ones but they seem very weak. Have you tried them? All the Corally drivers over here have problems with them.
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