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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-05-2007, 06:51 PM   #24616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
Carpet Ripper 07

check out Stay Tuned ! as it's got a countdown to launch on the page


06 Hours, 24 Minutes and 45 Seconds to go when I looked

now down to 38 Minutes and 05 Seconds
I'd have to say, that is low (center of gravity).

One question, is the motor pod designed for brushed or brushless. Only asking as it seems most of the team drivers have brushless systems.

Cheers
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Old 04-05-2007, 08:12 PM   #24617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Congrats to Mike Haynes for his recent finish at the Fast Cats race in Canada this past weekend. Mike TQ'ed and finished 2nd in 1/12th scale 19Turn with his Darkside Motorsports MX2 chassis. Way to go Mike!
ya it was very nice to see him and the other fast guys run
and it was the 1st time iv seen the car up close looks prity neat
but i still like my gen x.
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Old 04-05-2007, 08:34 PM   #24618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car
I'd have to say, that is low (center of gravity).

One question, is the motor pod designed for brushed or brushless. Only asking as it seems most of the team drivers have brushless systems.

Cheers

to be honest,it is very difficult to make a rear pod that will accept brushless without some loosening of screws due to the squared off back and the sensor wire.it looks like it will fit in there fine but will still need to loosen the left side pod screws to get the motor in there comfortably.the nice part is the motor gets to stay in for a while.this is just visual observation and not fact.im sure someone with the car can give you a definate answer.i have found the only way to make it fit without loosening pod screws lead to a pod plate that is prone to bending easily because you would need to make it somewhat of a U shape without a top support.one good rear end collision and its game over.
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Old 04-05-2007, 09:36 PM   #24619
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Maybe Brian's new set up with the wide motor box will allow motor removal without taking anything apart.
Honestly, though, I don't see why its such a big deal. We've been running a lot of brushless here and I can now change a motor in less than 10 minutes, and that's with my anal attached-down-the-middle sensor wires and all. OK so that's 7 minutes less time to smack talk with my friends but I can live with that
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Old 04-05-2007, 09:44 PM   #24620
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OK here's one, I see that at the Euros the top like 30 cars ran brushless. It would seem that they figured something out that I haven't, because I still don't like the power curve on the brushless as much as brushed. I seem to remember something about a 12 turn limit on brushed motors in Europe, if that is true and still in place that could sure explain the popularity of the bl
Anybody know
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:08 PM   #24621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
OK here's one, I see that at the Euros the top like 30 cars ran brushless. It would seem that they figured something out that I haven't, because I still don't like the power curve on the brushless as much as brushed. I seem to remember something about a 12 turn limit on brushed motors in Europe, if that is true and still in place that could sure explain the popularity of the bl
Anybody know
i think alot of the Euros use systems with no sen wire in them
and different motors
made by company's that have been doing brushless for a long time.
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:18 PM   #24622
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My question is really about the 12 turn limit. Anybody know?
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:25 PM   #24623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
My question is really about the 12 turn limit. Anybody know?
to be the same as
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:40 PM   #24624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Congrats to Mike Haynes for his recent finish at the Fast Cats race in Canada this past weekend. Mike TQ'ed and finished 2nd in 1/12th scale 19Turn with his Darkside Motorsports MX2 chassis. Way to go Mike!
The car does look cool... kinda looks like a 1/12 version of the JRXS-R with the battery configeration. Makes sense though...
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Old 04-06-2007, 01:27 AM   #24625
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Motor pod is designed for brushless. But like protc3 mentioned, it is very difficult to match the bulk if motors will become a little longer. In any case, its not needed to place a motor all the time when running the brushless

I am using Nosram motors(same as LRP) and havent got problems in installing. No need to take screws out or anything extra.with GM /orion motors it may be needed to loosen some screws due to motors lenght.

I will add more photos of the car this weekend to the website.

Hope this helped!
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Old 04-06-2007, 02:03 AM   #24626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car
One question, is the motor pod designed for brushed or brushless. Only asking as it seems most of the team drivers have brushless systems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
to be honest,it is very difficult to make a rear pod that will accept brushless without some loosening of screws due to the squared off back and the sensor wire.
I have the FF'07 & there's no need to loosen any screws to instal the Nosram Storm & Evolution brushless motors (same as LRP/Reedy motor). Need to remove sonsor lead 1st thought as it won't go in with it plugged into the endbell
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Old 04-06-2007, 02:10 AM   #24627
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The weight issue with brushless in the rear pods. Has this been looked at with this car (ripper) since most of you are running brushless. Like what slapmaster is testing with moving the pod over to help with the weight.

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Old 04-06-2007, 03:01 AM   #24628
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Balance of the car has been super in both slippery and high traction tracks with brushless motors. We havent faced any issues that would have caused any other modifications with rear design than those that are already made to make the pod more ridig. No "off-tweak" effect have been faced either.

I have been running different protos since 2002, on dozens of tracks. Me or the guys who have used my prototype cars have never had a problem with overall balance or with tweak. Compared to the car that the "edition" of the prototype was made, we have always improved a lot.

Like mentioned earlier, CR'07 (previously known as "V-Edition") and FF 07 may look the same but there are a lots of things that differ.

Its the same when you compare the hamburgers from McDonalds and Burger King just by looking them over:they look the same but you dont know what is inside

In 1/12 small things matter and fast cars can be made with different style of thinking. Yokomo 1/12 may look the same as aAE L4, but they have only front and parts and 4 tires that makes them look the same. Length of the car, width, weight balance and geometry all together makes the difference. Just to point out few thoughts, nothing else

In 1/12 there are many different concepts on market that works. This is just one of those, built on to "no-need-to-buy-option parts" concepts. Mine and andys car were totally standard from what we started. Let the results talk instead of thinking does it work ask Brits

I am very delighted to see many people are interested about the car

Vesa
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:38 AM   #24629
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There is no 12 turn limit on brushed. When i ran brushed at UK nationals i ran 10 turn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
My question is really about the 12 turn limit. Anybody know?
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Old 04-06-2007, 04:06 AM   #24630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vesa
Motor pod is designed for brushless. But like protc3 mentioned, it is very difficult to match the bulk if motors will become a little longer. In any case, its not needed to place a motor all the time when running the brushless

I am using Nosram motors(same as LRP) and havent got problems in installing. No need to take screws out or anything extra.with GM /orion motors it may be needed to loosen some screws due to motors lenght.

I will add more photos of the car this weekend to the website.

Hope this helped!
being that there really is no need to take the brushless motors out of the car,i dont see any problems with having to fiddle a little to get them in.i would much rather fiddle a little than bend pods.the car looks very nice.
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