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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-03-2007, 04:42 PM   #24571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
Hey Jay, I'm running the OD12. I hear you are too, wish I had known that when I was up at SIR. If you need any help with it let me know.

-James
Alright, now don't complain when I'm burnin' your ear off
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Old 04-04-2007, 03:01 AM   #24572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkas10
...I think my speed secret for 12th scale 19t will be to put a worn out stock motor in the car so I can get around the track without hitting everything in the room...
Hey, maybe you are kidding, but its not a bad idea. You will learn to drive good lines much sooner if you have a car you can control, then you can add more horsepower. If it was just about using the fastest motor the pros would always run a 7 turn in mod, but they don't. The trick is to stick the fastest motor that you can drive in the car
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Old 04-04-2007, 06:13 AM   #24573
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You can also take some of the throttle high point off.
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:45 AM   #24574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkas10
I think my speed secret for 12th scale 19t will be to put a worn out stock motor in the car
Don't laugh...it's a VERY valid strategy.

Bob Stormer challenged me to run a Tamiya silver can motor in stock a while back. It was the BEST the car has ever handled--it was like a DREAM. One of our faster 1/12 racers tried it after one of the heats was over (oh...you could run 15 minutes too) and wanted to buy the car right then and there. The top end is probably close if you get it geared high enough (I was on 60mm roll-out), but it has less torque and NO braking effect so it's like having your car set to roll through the turns. You REALLY concentrate on making the sweeping lines so you can carry speed. The end result was also exactly what Bob had predicted...I ran a clean main as did the fellow who won. He was threatening to lap me after the 8-minutes was up.

The challenge would be that I don't think the silver can is technically ROAR-legal, but what club wouldn't accept it?

Scottrik
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:39 AM   #24575
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I have tried to convince guys at my local track of the same thing. No believes me that it really not that much slower for club races. I noticed this at some of the tcs races I attended. I was suprised how well the cars work and handled with 540's

540 would be a great class for club racing.

Jamie
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:50 AM   #24576
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Default New to RC12, got an RC12L3

So I've decided to get into carpet racing, and have an RC12L3 I picked up off ebay.

It has no electronics, just a roller. What sizes of motor/esc will work well and fit in an RC12L3? Also, does it need a micro servo?

I'm probably going to pick something up off ebay, but have no clue what to look for.

Thanks,
John
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:53 AM   #24577
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Here in FL we run 19T 1/12th because our outdoor tracks are pretty big. My local track is 150x50 with 10 foot lanes.

On these tracks 27T motors are pitifully slow and not at all exciting to run.
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:57 AM   #24578
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I should have mentioned I'm completely new to electric, I run only nitro currently.

Is 19T/27T physically the same size? I see occasionally people/manufacturers say their motors will fit 1/18th or 1/10th, but haven't seen anything that says it will fit in 1/12th. Do they all use 540 size?
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:58 AM   #24579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
any of you guys have a pic of a V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 07? i saw it did will at the euros but have never seen it before.
info released very soon including photos

Quote:


Hello guys,

Just to make it correct, even the V-Dezign Carpet Ripper may look similar to FF '07, they have something same kind of stuff but are still totally different cars built on different concept. I have known Jari since '95 as we are from the same club. We are in contact very often also nowadays, weekly or even more often. Both have own ideas on cars which have been done in a different way with different style and thinking but also something has been done together. I know FF'07 is a superb car as well as the Carpet Ripper Both have proved they are a winners.

I have been running with different V-Dezign protos now since last februari '06 and the final update kit will be out very soon.

Any info about the car will be available at my website soon @ www.v-dezign.net (car section is under constructuon and doesnt exist yet, will be there in these days).

I asked Andy Griffiths (worlds a finalist, euro champ, multiple euro a finalis) if he would be interested to try my car in october. Since that, Andy dominated the UK tracks race after race.

I and Andy Griffiths run the latest and the final version of car this winter with good success with some of the results in here:

Andy
-1st place in 10 out of 12 Nationals in UK in both 19t and mod.
-4th at the 2007 Euros

Vesa
- 2nd at Finnish Champs 2006 with proto car
- 1st in Rebellion Race in October in Finland
- A main at the Euros warmup and finished 7th
- 2nd at 2nd rnd of nationals in finland
- TQ'd with ~1,5 LAPS and took 1st place in every final at 3rd rnd of
nationals in finland ( all top drivers attended the race)
- 10th at the 2007 Euros

All who are interested about the car, can contact me thru my website or @ vesa@v-dezign.net

The kits should be available in may. The kit will include all graphite parts and alum motor pod. Photos will be available shortly. The car has got a lot of interest and already now it seems it will be the most popular car in Finland next season

BR,
Vesa
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Old 04-04-2007, 09:03 AM   #24580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdcarbon
I should have mentioned I'm completely new to electric, I run only nitro currently.

Is 19T/27T physically the same size? I see occasionally people/manufacturers say their motors will fit 1/18th or 1/10th, but haven't seen anything that says it will fit in 1/12th. Do they all use 540 size?
All of the motors are the same size. except for brushless motors. 19t/ 27t refers to the number of times the wire is wraped around each pole of the motor.

I don't beleive that a 540 size motor will fit in a 1/18 scale vehicle.

E
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Old 04-04-2007, 09:08 AM   #24581
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We are about to run 19 turn out here in 12th scale, since we have been running stock since the regionals. I wwould like to know how do I setup up C2 for a 12th scale (Brush and spring)?
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Old 04-04-2007, 09:22 AM   #24582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
We are about to run 19 turn out here in 12th scale, since we have been running stock since the regionals. I wwould like to know how do I setup up C2 for a 12th scale (Brush and spring)?
F brush (maybe vertical cut) green and green spring
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Old 04-04-2007, 10:37 AM   #24583
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Originally Posted by CarlosG.
We are about to run 19 turn out here in 12th scale, since we have been running stock since the regionals. I wwould like to know how do I setup up C2 for a 12th scale (Brush and spring)?
you should try out a KD motor for 19 turn buddy.they are really quick compared to the C2.i usually ran the F brush like marcos stated with the C2 but now with the 4499 and red spring + and - for the KD.i gear it at a 88/30 or 31 depending on the track size with a 1.850 rear tire.the car was a little missile.this is for asphalt by the way right?
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Old 04-04-2007, 10:57 AM   #24584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Here in FL we run 19T 1/12th because our outdoor tracks are pretty big. My local track is 150x50 with 10 foot lanes.

On these tracks 27T motors are pitifully slow and not at all exciting to run.
You are right there. The one large asphalt track we have is pretty lame with stock brushed motors

But the guy we are talking about here is having trouble controlling his car with a 19t, so even if he is running outdoors a slower motor will help him learn.
We have been discussing the idea of silver can or something similar here. We have a couple of small carpet tracks and since they have allowed 13.5 in stock, there is no entry level class anymore
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Old 04-04-2007, 11:10 AM   #24585
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Were in the exact same boat in 12th. it has gained some popularity at our track. We've been debating about the silvercan motor as well. Should have plenty of power as far as a newbie and a 12th go. our track is only 36x60. In TC we have a novice and advanced class. No difference in the two...just skill level. Has worked out really well for us and were on the verge of doing the same thing in 12th, except as I said, the silver can for the beginner. As fun as it is to squeeze the trigger and the car rip down the straight through tthe corners, it's frustraiting the the newer guys to break parts and not finish a race.
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