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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-02-2007, 05:13 PM   #24541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
to be honest,i cheat and i use my surface grinder i grind it to about a 32 finish
I'm not sure what 32 finish translates too but will 400 grit sandpaper work?
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:15 PM   #24542
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i would go with 400 and wet sand with 1000 afterwards
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:18 PM   #24543
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actually,if you have a worn piece of 400 you can finish with that.you just want to make sure its flat and smoothe enough that the diff isnt gritty.when they are flat,all the diff balls have even pressure applied to them so you have more holding force with less tension on the balls along with an unpolished surface so the balls can bite in real good
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:18 PM   #24544
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i would go with 400 and wet sand with 1000 afterwards
will do, thx
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:20 PM   #24545
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Originally Posted by DOTMAN
I'm not sure what 32 finish translates too but will 400 grit sandpaper work?
http://www.teamirsrc.com/techtips.html
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:22 PM   #24546
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no problem.you want to make sure that when tight,you can sping the diff freely and easily with 1 finger tip after you cut it in.to cut it in i set the diff med tight and hold 1 wheel and the spur and i slip the diff with the other wheel.i slip the diff 6 full revolutions and then then the balls rotate a little and then another 6 revs.i do this until the diff feels real smoothe but grips really good.you will feel them as they seat.the free rotation gets smoother and more free.i slightly tighten about 1/16 of a turn on the diff nut until it hurts my thumb to hold the spur.it should still free spin very easily when it is set.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:23 PM   #24547
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Originally Posted by jkas10
Jason, I want to clarify rthe shock spring preload. I understand you run the chassis and rear pod level by measuring eight locations to ensure this (four corners of the chassis and four corners of the rear pod) you use the ball cup to obtain this level of levelness

Now, do you then keep the car perfectly level and add one turn of preload with the shock at this position, OR, do you extend the shock fully by pulling the rear pod back/down - or simply removing one end from the car... - and then add one turn of preload? I am guessing the latter.

Do you have the spring on the shock, or the collar backed off, when setting ride height? Or, is it all in the shock oil/rebound to keep the center of the chassis and front of rear pod level? Because if the shock spring is on and has any tension created by the collar when setting ride height, won't your ride height measurments change when you fully extend the shock and turn in one round of preload?

Can a guy just set the spring preload before you even begin messing with ride height? Fully extended is fully extended, right? Oh, wait; I answered my own question. If we have to turn the ball cup end on the shock shaft to adjust ride height, that will change our "fully extended" shock length. How did I do?

Boy, this keyboard racing is fun.!!! It really bites to think through this stuff, spend the hours to attempt to properly prepare your vehicles, and then stink up the joint when you place the car on the track. Trust me - I am always faster on the way to the track then on the way home...

Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Jeremy
Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
what i do is start by removing the shock all together and fully extending it untill the piston bottoms out on the cap.then i run the collar down until it just kisses the spring.then i go 1 full revolution on the collar for preload.now i put the shock back on the car.i will set my ride height by adjusting the length of the shock with the ball cups until my pod is level in all 4 corners of the rear pod and then use the ride height adjusters on the axle to set my ride height.if need be i will cut the ball cups a little shorter depending on how short i run the shock.now i will check the pod droop by lifting the center of the car by the top area where the top of the shock mounts.i will then slide a ride height gauge under the rear of the chassis right as the shock bottoms out.this measurement over ride height is your droop.the more uptravel you have the more weight transfers to the front under deceleration.in otherwords,more off power steering.after i do all those things,i fine tune with shock collar and length to maintain a level rear pod.you dont want to preload the spring too much due to the the fact that springs are progressive.
Will you guys PLEASE stop....my brain hurts
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:24 PM   #24548
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck

dave and i are both in agreement on diff builds and shock builds.we always share new findings with eachother.he is a smart guy and very knowledgable.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:26 PM   #24549
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Will you guys PLEASE stop....my brain hurts
my melon is starting to hurt also.i think its the typing that does it to me.i suck at it.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:28 PM   #24550
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you guys should try his lightened diff rings.for some reason they are the most flat rings right out of the package.i only had to grind .002 off of them to get them flat within .0002.made my life a whole lot easier.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:31 PM   #24551
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Hey James which 1/12th do you run?
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:41 PM   #24552
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OdP, Do you run level or a little sag?
At his age....he runs a lot of sag, especially in the mid section
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:49 PM   #24553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
you guys should try his lightened diff rings.for some reason they are the most flat rings right out of the package.i only had to grind .002 off of them to get them flat within .0002.made my life a whole lot easier.
on average they are all the same,but the lightened ones bend easer on impact,but i like the light ones better
less to sand.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:51 PM   #24554
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At his age....he runs a lot of sag, especially in the mid section
Hey! I resemble that remark!

jkas10, I usually run the cars with no sag. But I find that a little bit will calm the car down if its twitchy (its a quick thing to do, and its probably better to use other adjustments like tires and springs)
Sorry if the term created confusion, I guess you could call it "levelness" or "chassis parallelism". Ooh! I like that last one
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:52 PM   #24555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Hey! I resemble that remark!

jkas10, I usually run the cars with no sag. But I find that a little bit will calm the car down if its twitchy (its a quick thing to do, and its probably better to use other adjustments like tires and springs)
Sorry if the term created confusion, I guess you could call it "levelness" or "chassis parallelism". Ooh! I like that last one
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