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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

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Old 04-01-2007, 09:27 PM   #24511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808TXT1
so basically I can use the carpet knife cars to race on the asphalt???

I am leaning toward the RC12L4, but there is a T fource on ebay right now. Looks real simple, but I don't know anything about it...
You can run the Carpet Knife on asphalt. It won't be as easy to dial in as the T Fource IMO.
The T Fource and the 12L4 can be set up almost identically, the main difference being that the T Fource uses damper tubes and the L4 has discs.
If the ebay T Fource looks good I'd say go for it
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:31 PM   #24512
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Cool...

Been looking at some auctions...so far I found one with almost everything I need and its a 12L4 but I'll still look around...
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:12 PM   #24513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $rusty$
Jari freeking rules, and will treat you with nothing but respect. I'm saving up some money to get one of his kits .
JARI is cool. A good choice you are making.
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:35 PM   #24514
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Default T-Fource Setup (or driving...) help please!!!

Hello smart people

I am a relative newbie to the sport and this is my first season of carpet racing. I have had my hands full with a stock TC this winter, but am getting the hang of it.

I recently purchased a used Team Red T-Fource. I have only run it a few times, all in 19T. Today was the first time with a KD 19T - prior to that, I had a Cham 2 which didn't have near as much get up and go.

I have completely stripped down my t-fource and rebuilt it with the following components:
· Thicker bottom chassis plate
· 070 graphite t-bar
olive center spring
· 30 weight shock oil
· green side springs just touching balls when chassis is flat on bench with no tires
· pink rears
· purple fronts
· 10 degree upper arm mounts with one spacer in front and behind
· IRS raised lower arms
· delrin upper arms
· alum angled servo mounts
· servo in lowest holes
· futaba mini 9650 servo with kimbro servo saver with the crc graphite back plate for added strength
· zero degrees toe
· balls mounted on center height set of holes on kimbro ss
· .020 AE front springs measured to ensure same height
· new CRC light antennae/center spring ball mount
· 3.5 mm ride height front and rear, then tighten center shock collar to put a bit of forward tilt in rear pod
· batteries mounted forward
· car scaled for left to right weight balance obtained by placement of esc and receiver

Um, that's all I can think of right now...

Oh, full sauce on rear and just inner 1/4 of fronts. (After typing this, I realize that saucing the fronts when I have an over steering condition is not terribly smart of me...)

I need your help getting this thing around the track. Are these cars just that much different to drive than any thing else? Some of you make it look so easy… I have not yet completed an entire eight-minute race.

Am I way out to lunch with the set up? Or, am I just not driving it correctly? It seems very twitchy to me. For example, it often darts to the wall when accelerating off a corner. It seems to have too much steering entering corners (this did get better by moving batteries forward but still a handful...)

Please advise - I am about to offer 808TXTI my car for a VERY GOOD PRICE No, I want to make this thing to go fast!!!

Driving and set up techniques are very welcome. Fire away

Thank you for your help!
Jeremy
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:40 PM   #24515
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Default centered b/l rr pod

Guys.... just a quicky update.... the b/l pod re-balance worked out from a tire wear standpoint. Virtually twins for rear tires for 5 packs. No left side vs right side difference.

The race, on the other hand, got under my skin... and felt it was time to exit stage left.

ND: Here I come!
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:52 PM   #24516
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The only thing I can really spot wrong there is the green side springs, they are too stiff. Try white side springs and see how that goes. If then it feels like its not turning quickly enough try the red side springs. Should really only need those two types, red and white. Hope this helps

There may be something i'm missing but i'm sure the 12th scale guru's will chime in soon.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:02 PM   #24517
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jkas10

I would also sudjest going with the red first then white since your running a 19t. I would also sudjest trying a a red center spring the .20 spring should be fine. It also sound like your diff maybe to tight. How much rear pod drop do you have. your car might be tweaked to. Place it on a tweak board.

you might also want to try grey or white's with purple fronts. I hope this helps
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:03 PM   #24518
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Thanks, Seano!

I'll try the change of springs.

Do I even need the side springs if the car doesn't rely on them to be tweaked (or de-tweaked...)?

But, I suppose without them, the car would be way too soft with side to side weight tansfer for carpet...

Thanks again - I'll see if anyone running a T-Fource adds some words of wisdom... My new shell is gettting tore up pretty bad. I gotta figure this out soon.
Jeremy
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:07 AM   #24519
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jkas10 Hello there even thought I run a 12L4 I'll try my best to help you try this:

front:
Jaco Dual Stage Purple or Dual Stage blacks (Blacks) will give you a slight push which is what you may need it will make the front stable.
when you sauce the front tires just put on a little on the front inner side.

After every run spray some motor spray on your tires and wipe them clean to clean them up after each race, clean each tire let it dry and then sauce your tires with tire tracion.The reason for this is after reapeted use of the same tire the tire gets gummed up and the fronts can get very twitchy.


You did'nt say what tire sauce you use I would highly recommend paragon tire traction I'ts the black can with the Purple writing.Sauce your tires about 20 minutes before you go racin then wipe your tires off a few minutes before you got out.

For the rear you can either try Jaco Dual stage yellow or dual stage pink rears.

On your T-fource the side tweek springs take them out and just use the tweek srcews on the tweek plate, maybe thats why your car is handling wierd you can only use one or the other not both.

If you just use the side springs make sure when you tweek the car there is not alot of preload on the side springs that maybe why you get that darty ness from your car.when you tweek the car when using the side springs just go in small increments each side .

The reason I mentioned the Jaco Dual stages is that they make the car very stable but if you cannot get those tires try these below:

CRC High rollers Purple Font
CRC High roller Black Front
CRC High roller Pink rears

Parma purple or black fronts
Parma pink rears

BSR Purple or black fronts
BSR Pink rears

I hope this helps even though I never raced a T-fouce which is a very nice car all the t-plate cars are very close when setting them up

hope this helps If ya have any more questions just pm me

Mike














Quote:
Originally Posted by jkas10
Hello smart people

I am a relative newbie to the sport and this is my first season of carpet racing. I have had my hands full with a stock TC this winter, but am getting the hang of it.

I recently purchased a used Team Red T-Fource. I have only run it a few times, all in 19T. Today was the first time with a KD 19T - prior to that, I had a Cham 2 which didn't have near as much get up and go.

I have completely stripped down my t-fource and rebuilt it with the following components:
· Thicker bottom chassis plate
· 070 graphite t-bar
olive center spring
· 30 weight shock oil
· green side springs just touching balls when chassis is flat on bench with no tires
· pink rears
· purple fronts
· 10 degree upper arm mounts with one spacer in front and behind
· IRS raised lower arms
· delrin upper arms
· alum angled servo mounts
· servo in lowest holes
· futaba mini 9650 servo with kimbro servo saver with the crc graphite back plate for added strength
· zero degrees toe
· balls mounted on center height set of holes on kimbro ss
· .020 AE front springs measured to ensure same height
· new CRC light antennae/center spring ball mount
· 3.5 mm ride height front and rear, then tighten center shock collar to put a bit of forward tilt in rear pod
· batteries mounted forward
· car scaled for left to right weight balance obtained by placement of esc and receiver

Um, that's all I can think of right now...

Oh, full sauce on rear and just inner 1/4 of fronts. (After typing this, I realize that saucing the fronts when I have an over steering condition is not terribly smart of me...)

I need your help getting this thing around the track. Are these cars just that much different to drive than any thing else? Some of you make it look so easy… I have not yet completed an entire eight-minute race.

Am I way out to lunch with the set up? Or, am I just not driving it correctly? It seems very twitchy to me. For example, it often darts to the wall when accelerating off a corner. It seems to have too much steering entering corners (this did get better by moving batteries forward but still a handful...)

Please advise - I am about to offer 808TXTI my car for a VERY GOOD PRICE No, I want to make this thing to go fast!!!

Driving and set up techniques are very welcome. Fire away

Thank you for your help!
Jeremy
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:38 AM   #24520
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
12th Scale 2007 European Championship
A Final Results

1 Hot Bodies Prototype
2 Corally SP12 X US
3 Corally SP12X
4 V-Dezign Carpet Ripper
5 CRS Generation X
6 Corally SP12X GM
7 CRC Carpet Knife GenX
8 Corally 12X GM
9 Team Associated RC12L4
10 V-Dezign Carpet Ripper '07

V-Dezign Carpet Ripper '07 is similar to the FF07 1/12th car (aka Flexi) which I now have

full results are here

The Track

Picture by sidtsloth on www.rcracechat.com
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:34 AM   #24521
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Originally Posted by mike ivy
jkas10 Hello there even thought I run a 12L4 I'll try my best to help you try this:

front:
Jaco Dual Stage Purple or Dual Stage blacks (Blacks) will give you a slight push which is what you may need it will make the front stable.
when you sauce the front tires just put on a little on the front inner side.

After every run spray some motor spray on your tires and wipe them clean to clean them up after each race, clean each tire let it dry and then sauce your tires with tire tracion.The reason for this is after reapeted use of the same tire the tire gets gummed up and the fronts can get very twitchy.


You did'nt say what tire sauce you use I would highly recommend paragon tire traction I'ts the black can with the Purple writing.Sauce your tires about 20 minutes before you go racin then wipe your tires off a few minutes before you got out.

For the rear you can either try Jaco Dual stage yellow or dual stage pink rears.

On your T-fource the side tweek springs take them out and just use the tweek srcews on the tweek plate, maybe thats why your car is handling wierd you can only use one or the other not both.

If you just use the side springs make sure when you tweek the car there is not alot of preload on the side springs that maybe why you get that darty ness from your car.when you tweek the car when using the side springs just go in small increments each side .

The reason I mentioned the Jaco Dual stages is that they make the car very stable but if you cannot get those tires try these below:

CRC High rollers Purple Font
CRC High roller Black Front
CRC High roller Pink rears

Parma purple or black fronts
Parma pink rears

BSR Purple or black fronts
BSR Pink rears

I hope this helps even though I never raced a T-fouce which is a very nice car all the t-plate cars are very close when setting them up

hope this helps If ya have any more questions just pm me

Mike
Thank you Mike!

I do use paragon sauce - I forgot to put that in my original message. But, I haven't been cleaning the tires after each run... I will start to do that.

It looks like the tires I have are not the tires of choice. I will pick up a couple other compounds before I run the car again.

Side Springs... You mentioned to run either the springs or tweak screws; but not both. On my car, the spring is slightly conical shaped with the small end attaching to a grooved head on the bottom of the tweak screw and the larger end resting on a tweak ball which is attached using the bolts that attach the t-plate to the rear pod. I think, by design, that i have to run both... http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...urce_page2.pdf and the top left of this finishes the guidance: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...urce_page3.pdf I haven't looked at the 12L4 enough to notice if the tweak options are the same. I am assuming there is a difference in design between the AE cars and the CRC cars here.

I do not screw any preload into the springs as the car is tweaked real well (with a t-plate that isn't cracked, anyway... )

Thanks again, Mike! I really appreciate your wise advice.

Lots to learn,
Jeremy


OH, one other question comes to mind... It seems like the common rule of foam on carpet - regardless of the car - is "Stiffer is Better". Stay with me guys

But, it seems that all are running the thin t-plates... Does a thick, stiff t-plate not work well???
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Last edited by jkas10; 04-02-2007 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:15 AM   #24522
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There's a lot of good info flowing around here right now.

jkas10- You mention a lot of oversteer. How exactly is it happening? On corner entry, all over, or just on exit? There's a lot of subtle changes you can make that affect the car very differently in these circumstances.

It has been just my first year at 1/12 and I have run stock and mod. It took a long time to really bring my car from being good, to excellent (which it was yesterday). Someone mentioned pod droop a few posts up. I find the preload on the center shock a very critical adjustment. Too much and the car will want to hook on exit as soon as you hit the gas. A tight diff will really cause erratic handling, often loose off throttle and push on, until you break the tires loose where it goes around completely.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:49 AM   #24523
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Originally Posted by cyrrus
jkas10

I would also sudjest going with the red first then white since your running a 19t. I would also sudjest trying a a red center spring the .20 spring should be fine. It also sound like your diff maybe to tight. How much rear pod drop do you have. your car might be tweaked to. Place it on a tweak board.

you might also want to try grey or white's with purple fronts. I hope this helps
Cyrrus,
I'll bet you are right about the diff being too tight... In hindsight, I am sure of it...
No tweak, though. She's flat accross the bottom and scales out real evenly balanced.

I am not sure how much pod drop - I kind of eyeballed it to ensure that the front of the pod didn't drop below the rear of the chassis. Probably about 1 to 1.5 mm drop. I would have to measure to be sure.

Thanks for the help!!!
Jeremy
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Old 04-02-2007, 10:07 AM   #24524
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Originally Posted by gubbs3
There's a lot of good info flowing around here right now.

jkas10- You mention a lot of oversteer. How exactly is it happening? On corner entry, all over, or just on exit? There's a lot of subtle changes you can make that affect the car very differently in these circumstances.

It has been just my first year at 1/12 and I have run stock and mod. It took a long time to really bring my car from being good, to excellent (which it was yesterday). Someone mentioned pod droop a few posts up. I find the preload on the center shock a very critical adjustment. Too much and the car will want to hook on exit as soon as you hit the gas. A tight diff will really cause erratic handling, often loose off throttle and push on, until you break the tires loose where it goes around completely.
Gubbs, extreme over steer on corner entry. Also, some push on throttle but oversteer exiting. So, the pod droop and tight dif were probably both working against me...

I have a confession - I haven't raced in about a month before yesterday's outing. (I was rusty for one thing) But also, in that time, I completely rebuilt this car and made many changes to try to set it up more like others' cars. BUT - I also got the FASST module and rx for my futaba 3PKS. Plus, I went from a JR 3550 steering servo to a Futaba 9650. So, lots of changes...

What is the recomended amount of pod droop?

Do you guys think that I selected a servo that will work well for me?

I had to turn the steering spd way down on the radio just to keep from hitting everything!!! If anyone was in Omaha yesterday, you know exactly who I am - without a doubt - I was out to lunch

Thanks for the additional information and recomendations!
Jeremy
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Old 04-02-2007, 10:11 AM   #24525
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a quick way to measure pod droop is to take a straight edge and place it tight tothe bottom of the chassis and see where it line up against the back edge of the pod. I beleive that mid point of the pod is equal to 1mm of droop.

E
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