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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-31-2007, 04:49 PM   #24496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
curiosity question:
which turn novak brushless motor would one recommend in 12th scale?
I see that the GM drivers have been using a 5.5 in theres, but the two are probobly different in construction, so one may be faster in compairison. Ive seen many used the ready 4* which I believe is also a 5.5 turn and they seem plenty fast.

Any insight?
I would go as fast as you can, and turn down the speed via the transmitter.
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Last edited by RCSteve93; 03-31-2007 at 04:49 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-31-2007, 07:31 PM   #24497
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I am the only one using a b/l in our regional race this weekend. Not very many attended, either. I am using the Neo 4 Star, which is plenty fast. Oddly, I am on a rather large track so there is a lot of "on throttle". Run time is an issue. I am thinking about going to my original Neo 1(last years motor) and putting a little more gear on it. The 4 Star is supposed to be equal to a 7 turn. I think the Neo 1 is supposed to be around a 10-11... feel free to correct me if you really know what it is supposed to be. I hear that the Novak guys use 4.5 & 5.5s.

Rear pod news: The b/l rear pod is doing well although it is difficult to A vs B it today. The track is coming up round per round quickly. I was caught with my pants down in round 2, made the necessary adjustments for R3 and luckily left the car on the pole for the evening. We have one more round in the morning to make it stick. I have looking to see if I have another Ace up the sleeve... but I will likely motor down and keep the car strong for 8 minutes instead of 7:30. I lost about 11 seconds in the end. TQ is very much up for grabs still. Oh, the pod mod seems to be very consistant... actually I do not notice anything odd at all back there. So it must be working! I have some tough guys to run with: Pete Robinson, Trav Schreven, Darren Shank and Sean Maybel. Anyone of us could steel it in R4 tomorrow.
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Old 03-31-2007, 07:51 PM   #24498
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Default Internal Ratio for CRC T-Fource????????????

Does anyone know what the internal ratio is for a CRC T-Fource??


Thanks in advance
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Old 03-31-2007, 07:54 PM   #24499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MACH55
Does anyone know what the internal ratio is for a CRC T-Fource??


Thanks in advance

1.000
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:27 PM   #24500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MACH55
Does anyone know what the internal ratio is for a CRC T-Fource??


Thanks in advance
There is no internal ratio in a direct drive car.
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Old 04-01-2007, 12:45 AM   #24501
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Default Getting into 12th scale racing

hello,
I have a few questions.....

I am planning on racing in the 12th scale class at my local track, I was wondering if the carpet cars are made to race on asphalt as well??

I don't know to much about the 12th scale, but the ones I have in mind right now are the RC12L4, CRC carpet knife and I just saw the T-Fource which is a lot cheaper than the carpet knife..

How do these ones run and what would you recommend....
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:56 AM   #24502
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So if I'm using a 19T in a CRC T-Fource with a spur of 88, what pinion should I use for a final drive. The track would be med, technical, asphalt??


Thanks
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:09 AM   #24503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808TXT1
hello,
I have a few questions.....

I am planning on racing in the 12th scale class at my local track, I was wondering if the carpet cars are made to race on asphalt as well??

I don't know to much about the 12th scale, but the ones I have in mind right now are the RC12L4, CRC carpet knife and I just saw the T-Fource which is a lot cheaper than the carpet knife..

How do these ones run and what would you recommend....
You can't go wrong with a 12L4, it works for a variety of tracks and conditions. The T Fource is the same style of car, but comes with some nice upgrades, worth the extra money. The base model T Fource is not shown on the CRC website any more but if you can find one its probably the least expensive 1/12th you can buy, a really good value.
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Old 04-01-2007, 12:22 PM   #24504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808TXT1
hello,
I have a few questions.....

I am planning on racing in the 12th scale class at my local track, I was wondering if the carpet cars are made to race on asphalt as well??

I don't know to much about the 12th scale, but the ones I have in mind right now are the RC12L4, CRC carpet knife and I just saw the T-Fource which is a lot cheaper than the carpet knife..

How do these ones run and what would you recommend....
the 12l4 is a good car, but if you stick with 12th it will cost you to use it to its full potential. if you can afford it right now, I would get the t-fource. the t-fource was my first 12th car and although I don't use it anymore, I do use the parts from it
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:57 PM   #24505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MACH55
So if I'm using a 19T in a CRC T-Fource with a spur of 88, what pinion should I use for a final drive. The track would be med, technical, asphalt??


Thanks

88/30 with a 1.85 rear tire is a good start with a kd 19 turn.
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:02 PM   #24506
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any of you guys have a pic of a V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 07? i saw it did will at the euros but have never seen it before.
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:58 PM   #24507
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this post is kinda directed towards Jari with his different style of tweak screw T bar mounting.i was intrigued by both yours and robotronics different style of tweak screw locations on your car and the little 1/18th scalpel.being that you are working with this i figured i would throw a few ideas..robotronics has there tweak screws going though the antenna mount and touching down on top of the t bar in the same spot as the standard tweak screws and it got me thinking of maybe doing the same but having the tweak screw area being on the left and right side of the antenna mount allowing you room to either move the forward pivot further forward allowing you to further soften the compression of the t bar or extending the furthest forward part of the t bar forward and having it split in the center around the antenna mount and having the same effect but in a less vulnerable area for breakage.this would,i believe allow for thicker T bars to increase side spring tension for more steering without as much spring tension gain during compression.the thought seemed interesting to me and being that you already have a unique style i figured i would stay away from it.plus,i have a ton on my plate with my own 1/12th suspension.hats off to you for taking the T bar in a new direction.the car looks nice
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:19 PM   #24508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808TXT1
hello,
I have a few questions.....

I am planning on racing in the 12th scale class at my local track, I was wondering if the carpet cars are made to race on asphalt as well??

I don't know to much about the 12th scale, but the ones I have in mind right now are the RC12L4, CRC carpet knife and I just saw the T-Fource which is a lot cheaper than the carpet knife..

How do these ones run and what would you recommend....
these are very good cars but for a new driver to 1/12 the T plate may coz you undo stress.
the gen x is a far easer car to drive and theres no T plate to break.
it may cost a little more but you will be really happy with it.
i made the switch and im very happy.
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:11 PM   #24509
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If he is going to run on an asphalt track he's better off with a t bar car, IMO. I've seen plenty of T Fource cars run well on asphalt, not so much with link cars
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:47 PM   #24510
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so basically I can use the carpet knife cars to race on the asphalt???

I am leaning toward the RC12L4, but there is a T fource on ebay right now. Looks real simple, but I don't know anything about it...
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