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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-27-2007, 12:05 AM   #24421
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Hey Od,

How about any wiring jobs on CRC non t bar cars....Your wiring is always the best and very tidy....
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Old 03-27-2007, 12:31 AM   #24422
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here's a bl GenX, I don't have any shots of the brushed CRC link cars I've done (it's been a while) How about a Rev4 or a Hara (same idea)
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Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:08 AM   #24423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Smoking Motor: look for the t-bar to get white or opaque in the corners of the "T". Like Jeff Foxworthy says: Here's your sign! Back in the day, t-bars could last a month or one big hit and loose that special feeling. Today, the quality seems to be better.
pic of were fatigue/stress marks start to appear
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:26 AM   #24424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
pic of were fatigue/stress marks start to appear
Thanks for the pic. Now I know what I'm looking for.
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:53 AM   #24425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
The Texas On/Off road state champs were held at www.mikeshobbyshop.com in 1/12 there were 6 different cars in the A main as follows:

1. + TQ OD12
2. Hyperform
3. FF-07
4. L4
5. Gen X
6. L4
7. Gen X
8. Hyperform
9. BMI
10 L4

If you are ever in Dallas, stop by Mike's...he has a top-notch facility.
Had fun P2, hope to run with ya again soon. Tell Carlos, maybe next time....
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:14 AM   #24426
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I had fun also David. And yes maybe next time.
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:20 AM   #24427
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Mike is planning another event.... I will let you know when.
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:30 AM   #24428
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Hopefully later this year so I can save up for the trip and parts.
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:20 AM   #24429
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Hey OD,

Thanks for posting pics of the red slapmaster(??). I think its that because it has the lower arms as part of the chassis. I never thought of soldering the leads on the bottom of a vfs1.
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:22 AM   #24430
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Default awsome....

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Here's some shots of t bar cars I've done. Try to run your wires down the middle, they will have less influence on the rear pod movement (the closer the wires are to the roll center, the less they move) I didn't get any pics of the last T Fource I did, but it is wired pretty much identical to these. I might get a chance to take one of that car tomorrow, if so I will post it for you.
Hey thanks od.....that's amazing ......I will try.....if it turns out ok I will post for all to see !!!
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:26 AM   #24431
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Default transponder mounting.....

I know another question that's probablly been asked a hundred times .......What should I use to mount my transponder in my t-force ......there are pre-drilled holes aligning with the tabs on the transponder...is there a special screw.....nylon nut......to remove the chance of getting glitches, as you pass the loop ??? Thanks guys all your help is awsome !!!!
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:00 AM   #24432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh
I know another question that's probablly been asked a hundred times .......What should I use to mount my transponder in my t-force ......there are pre-drilled holes aligning with the tabs on the transponder...is there a special screw.....nylon nut......to remove the chance of getting glitches, as you pass the loop ??? Thanks guys all your help is awsome !!!!
normal 4-40 screw and mini lock-nut. Don't torque it down too much or you will deform the plastic ears (and loose resale value )

and while we are talking about OD's fancy wire jobs, contact him about his 16 gauge super-flexy wow-I-didn't-know-this-was-wire wire. It is seriously nice stuff. I ended up wiring my Rev 4.5 in a way that shouldn't have been possible without binding, but low and behold it didn't bind. No, I am not sponsored by him, I just know when I get a great product that saves me time, money, and frustration.

Tune in tomorrow for another info-mercial about the Slapmaster thrust bearing assembly
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:13 AM   #24433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
normal 4-40 screw and mini lock-nut. Don't torque it down too much or you will deform the plastic ears (and loose resale value )

and while we are talking about OD's fancy wire jobs, contact him about his 16 gauge super-flexy wow-I-didn't-know-this-was-wire wire. It is seriously nice stuff. I ended up wiring my Rev 4.5 in a way that shouldn't have been possible without binding, but low and behold it didn't bind. No, I am not sponsored by him, I just know when I get a great product that saves me time, money, and frustration.

Tune in tomorrow for another info-mercial about the Slapmaster thrust bearing assembly
Thanks smojoe .......alright od.......cough .......what is it ......where can I get it .....thanks again guys !!!!
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:29 AM   #24434
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Hey thanks for the plug Smoj. XRay just PM me for more info
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:42 AM   #24435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelV
Hey OD,

Thanks for posting pics of the red slapmaster(??). I think its that because it has the lower arms as part of the chassis. I never thought of soldering the leads on the bottom of a vfs1.
Yes it's a Slapmaster car, owned by Mr Cool himself, Jay Bee I had to drill out he lugs from the bottom on the VFS1 to attach the wires that way, a little skeery but actually not that hard to do
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