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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-25-2007, 07:43 AM   #24376
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Hi i am just wondering if anyone can answer this question for me.
I currently run a crc t-fource with a ko 917 fet servo using the adjustable plastic mounts, the only problem is the mounts move when i take a knock. I want to put some aluminium fix servo mounts in but i don't have a jig to make sure i can drill new csk holes in the right position. There are two other servo holes but apparently they are for the jr servos will they be usable for the ko servo and, center the servo?

Also what kind life time does the 0.63 thick t piece have on carpet and how do you know when it fatigued? I recently changed mine after trying every thing else to get the car back to the way it was, only when i change the t-piece i found that the other one has fatigued enough to lose some of it springiness. I would like to know what are the best signs to look for. Etc

cheer for your help
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Old 03-25-2007, 11:18 AM   #24377
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well after a while waiting Parcelforce have finally sent me a letter to tell me my SP12X is sat at there depo waiting for me to pay the customs charges. Hopefully i will be able to go and pick it up tomorrow.

Is it worth me fitting the Corally front end from the start or shud i just fit the associated/CRC one from the start?

Also shud i fit a Associated T bar from the start?
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Old 03-25-2007, 11:36 AM   #24378
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Smoking Motor: look for the t-bar to get white or opaque in the corners of the "T". Like Jeff Foxworthy says: Here's your sign! Back in the day, t-bars could last a month or one big hit and loose that special feeling. Today, the quality seems to be better.

You can try to get a star washer from the hardware store, put another washer on top of it, followed by your nut to hold the mounts in position. If you do not like that idea, put a piece of masking tape on the chassis covering the area where your servo is to be mounted, get your servo into it's new mounts and draw around the mount on the masking tape to center up the holes to be drilled. Since the servos are not going to be an industry standard size, no drill jig is going to be available.

Jason; what a pain that was! But I like to play with the rotorary table. I am skeptical that this will do anything, but someone needs to take one for the team. Two carpet races in the next to weeks, then I will know if it was worth it.

I will go take some side by side pic's in a bit.
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Old 03-25-2007, 11:45 AM   #24379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
...I am skeptical that this will do anything, but someone needs to take one for the team. Two carpet races in the next to weeks, then I will know if it was worth it.
Brian, you sure jumped right on that, very nice work. I think it will prove to be worth it, a balanced car has to be better than one that isn't! Since the tracks down here allowed brusheless in stock and 19t we have been running a lot of brushless, and one thing I've noticed is that our brushless car beats up the left rear tire more than the brushed (on a clockwise track) If the balanced pod only fixes that, that's enough to make it worthwhile in my book
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Old 03-25-2007, 12:46 PM   #24380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
well after a while waiting Parcelforce have finally sent me a letter to tell me my SP12X is sat at there depo waiting for me to pay the customs charges. Hopefully i will be able to go and pick it up tomorrow.

Is it worth me fitting the Corally front end from the start or shud i just fit the associated/CRC one from the start?

Also shud i fit a Associated T bar from the start?
If the drivers I race with are anything to go by, then it isn't worth persevering with the Corally front end. My team mate tried it, started to fiddle lots with settings, and then tried the Assoc. front end - and never took it off! I went straight to the Assoc. front end!

Not tried the Assoc. T-bars. We have had most success with the Corally thick t-bar (2.0mm). Note that they have changed the design to beef up the bar, so the new-design thick T-bar is stiffer, and is maybe better than the Assoc one. HTH
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Old 03-25-2007, 02:13 PM   #24381
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I guess i am goona have to sit down and calculate hole positions and drill it out at work.
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Old 03-25-2007, 03:50 PM   #24382
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Pod looks good Brian. I like how you widened the pod out to keep the t-bar from hitting the left pod plate. Should also give more room for wire routing. Can't wait to hear how it does.

-James
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Old 03-25-2007, 04:32 PM   #24383
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As promised... some side by side pics.

I need to polish up the hub so that it looks as cool as the original IRS hub. I may need to get a tumbler to do it. That thing could make all 3 walls in the shop if I try to use the wheel!

I have always felt like the left rear takes more wear then the right on clockwise tracks. But we'll see if this makes any difference. I will keep an eye on it.

James: I just moved the motor mount over. I bet that a brush motor just tumbles in there now.

Any manufacturer with a carbon router is going to make easy work of this change. It will take a phone call to IRS and CRC to spin up new hubs. Our current axles work just fine. A different thrust cone would be needed for those that torture hub bearings. I could offer up a different thrust kit or an upgrade sleeve. That's all we need!
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Old 03-25-2007, 05:43 PM   #24384
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looks good.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:05 PM   #24385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Hi i am just wondering if anyone can answer this question for me.
I currently run a crc t-fource with a ko 917 fet servo using the adjustable plastic mounts, the only problem is the mounts move when i take a knock. I want to put some aluminium fix servo mounts in but i don't have a jig to make sure i can drill new csk holes in the right position. There are two other servo holes but apparently they are for the jr servos will they be usable for the ko servo and, center the servo?

Also what kind life time does the 0.63 thick t piece have on carpet and how do you know when it fatigued? I recently changed mine after trying every thing else to get the car back to the way it was, only when i change the t-piece i found that the other one has fatigued enough to lose some of it springiness. I would like to know what are the best signs to look for. Etc

cheer for your help

with any T bar,if you take a good side shot it will start its breakdown process.i usually change it after a good hit of the rear wheel on the pipe.yes i am anal but thats how it is.without hitting stuff,i change it anyway after about 3 race days.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:15 PM   #24386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
As promised... some side by side pics.

I need to polish up the hub so that it looks as cool as the original IRS hub. I may need to get a tumbler to do it. That thing could make all 3 walls in the shop if I try to use the wheel!

I have always felt like the left rear takes more wear then the right on clockwise tracks. But we'll see if this makes any difference. I will keep an eye on it.

James: I just moved the motor mount over. I bet that a brush motor just tumbles in there now.

Any manufacturer with a carbon router is going to make easy work of this change. It will take a phone call to IRS and CRC to spin up new hubs. Our current axles work just fine. A different thrust cone would be needed for those that torture hub bearings. I could offer up a different thrust kit or an upgrade sleeve. That's all we need!

ya know brian,if you were to remove the roll pin from the fixed diff hub,turn it down a slight bit and slide it down a bit and repin it,you should be fine with your thrust bearing.with the amount we need to shim the axles today,it shouldnt need to slide down much.we really dont need the rear trackwidth adjustment.after alot of experimentation,172mm it perfect or legally perfect. we can useup some of the shimmed space to soak up the area.even if the change is not felt,im sure it we be a hell of alot easier to wire the brushless motors.

OD,i noticed the same as you with the tire wear with brushless.i have come to the conclusion that with the added weight of the brushless system,it is that much harder on the left rear in the sweepers entering and exiting the infield.what i did to try this is i actually added weight to the chassis on the speedo side to duplicate the weight of the brushless speedo and ran with a 19 turn motor.it did in fact wear the left rear more than without the weight.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:32 PM   #24387
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Brian,


Let us know when I can buy the upgrades....I love your slapmaster thrust bearing...How about a kit for the CRC gen-x cars.....?
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:41 PM   #24388
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Well.... we gotta try it first!

I would hate to take Dave's axle apart... that's kinda sacred ground there! It was a ton easier to spin up a sleeve that move that hub. While 172mm is a good number, I do narrow up from time to time to speed up turn in. Albiet, rarely.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:22 PM   #24389
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i hear ya bro.i gotta tell you though,i have always run my asphalt car at 167mm until this weekend.i ran it at 172mm and worked with the flex plates and front end and was able to achieve as much or more steering as the narrow car but carry alot more corner speed.from here on out i am not going to narrow the rear anymore.it showed me that i was getting a false sense of accomplishment.i was happy with the car before but now i am friggin stoked. i only mess with front track width to fine tune now.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:11 AM   #24390
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Default Texas State Champs

The Texas On/Off road state champs were held at www.mikeshobbyshop.com in 1/12 there were 6 different cars in the A main as follows:

1. + TQ OD12
2. Hyperform
3. FF-07
4. L4
5. Gen X
6. L4
7. Gen X
8. Hyperform
9. BMI
10 L4

If you are ever in Dallas, stop by Mike's...he has a top-notch facility.
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