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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-22-2007, 10:39 PM   #24346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Here's a question for the 1/12th manufacturers out there:

A thought I had while perusing the 12th scale gallery thread...Brushless seems to really be picking up in the industry, I noticed the cars running brushless setups where people actually balanced out the car with the electronics often end up with the ESC and the servo, the 2 heaviest electronic components, on the right hand side of the car. So it seems the center of mass on a brushless motor is significantly to the left of where it is on a brushed motor. Is there any plans to re-center the pod as it were for brushless motors to better balance the rear pod?
We are working on a re-dimensioned motor pod to center the weight of a brushless motor. How many parts will have to change will depend on how far to the right the motor needs to move.

Balancing a brushless car in their current configuration is not something everyone agrees on. I think you should ignore the imbalance of the motor pod and just balance the front of the chassis by itself. The motor pod sits flat on the rear axle, so if you pile a bunch of weight on the right side of the car (to balance out the motor weight bias) it only works to load the right front spring, creating a tweak.

As to the relative weight of brushed and brushless motors, it depends on which ones you are talking about. I don't have everything but I weighed some motors:

X Stock 154g
KD19t 172g
Platinum 10x2 177g
Novak 13.5 188g
Novak 4300 187g
Reedy 3 star 165g
Reedy 4 star 169g

Since you can't take the sensor wires off the Novaks I weighed the Reedys with the sensor bundle plugged in. The sensor wires weigh 4.2g

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Old 03-22-2007, 11:19 PM   #24347
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What size/diameter do you true your front and rears too.
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:26 PM   #24348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car
What size/diameter do you true your front and rears too.
as small as you can go.....
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:44 PM   #24349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Here's a question for the 1/12th manufacturers out there:

A thought I had while perusing the 12th scale gallery thread...Brushless seems to really be picking up in the industry, I noticed the cars running brushless setups where people actually balanced out the car with the electronics often end up with the ESC and the servo, the 2 heaviest electronic components, on the right hand side of the car. So it seems the center of mass on a brushless motor is significantly to the left of where it is on a brushed motor. Is there any plans to re-center the pod as it were for brushless motors to better balance the rear pod?
As done in nitro clutches can there be made a pod that allows for weights to be added or subtracted to balance the pod depending on what BL beeing used.
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:48 PM   #24350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUNNA
as small as you can go.....


I wont some foam on my front rims
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:52 PM   #24351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car
As done in nitro clutches can there be made a pod that allows for weights to be added or subtracted to balance the pod depending on what BL beeing used.
Not sure yet as we are still testing but so far all the bl motors I've checked have the same balance. As far as adding weight in the pod to balance it, it would take quite a bit, and nobody wants to add weight to a brushless car because its so overweight already
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:06 AM   #24352
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So to set up (tweak, balance) in a car that is running brushless would be better to do so with or without the motor in. Or does it make no difference.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:51 AM   #24353
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other than jaco what other tires will fit the l4
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:33 AM   #24354
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It's funny this conversation is just hitting the forums. I have been chatting some with James about moving the b/l motor over. I was not aware the Jason was looking at it too and I have been talking to him as well. Just last night, I looked at the weight balance point of the b/l vs the brushed. Looking at OD's numbers, they are very close to mine. My scale only weighs in 5g increments. My Neo 4 Star weighs 165g w/o the harness. I have two Orion 9t that weigh 170 and 175g. Since b/l is only legal in mod (right now) I am only concerned about correcting a mod car. I found the balance difference between the two types to be 3.6mm... the b/l has it's balance point 3.6mm further away from the diff side then the brushed motor.

So, as much as a pain as it is, I am making up new upper and lower plates to move the motor mount over 3.6mm and then spin up a shorter diff hub of the same dimension. Then I will have to make a new diff thrust sleeve to soak up the difference (I know the manufacturer! ). I completed the lower plate tonight, the rest will get done in the coming days. I loosened the tweak screws and so far, it feels right on. Both sides feel about the same when you give it the light touch.

I have a Regional Race coming up at the end of the month I can do some testing. Then the bigger challenge will be seen in ND the week after.

For those that are thinking that they can just add a little wieght to the rear pod instead of going through all this.... it will take roughly 1/4ou added to the outter edge of the diff side tire to correct it. Of course it does not make sence to add weight to a tire. It would take over a 1/2ou if you stuck it to the outside edge of your motor mount. My personal hunch is that it will do more harm then good trying to add weight in this manor.

If you are going to tweak the car with a b/l system, leave the rear wheels on the stationary part of the tweak bar. That way, the weight imbalance will not show up when you tweak the front. You wont be able to spin the car around then with the rears on the moveable bar and get a flat result... the diff side will show light.
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:40 AM   #24355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
It's funny this conversation is just hitting the forums. I have been chatting some with James about moving the b/l motor over. I was not aware the Jason was looking at it too and I have been talking to him as well. Just last night, I looked at the weight balance point of the b/l vs the brushed. Looking at OD's numbers, they are very close to mine. My scale only weighs in 5g increments. My Neo 4 Star weighs 165g w/o the harness. I have two Orion 9t that weigh 170 and 175g. Since b/l is only legal in mod (right now) I am only concerned about correcting a mod car. I found the balance difference between the two types to be 3.6mm... the b/l has it's balance point 3.6mm further away from the diff side then the brushed motor.

So, as much as a pain as it is, I am making up new upper and lower plates to move the motor mount over 3.6mm and then spin up a shorter diff hub of the same dimension. Then I will have to make a new diff thrust sleeve to soak up the difference (I know the manufacturer! ). I completed the lower plate tonight, the rest will get done in the coming days. I loosened the tweak screws and so far, it feels right on. Both sides feel about the same when you give it the light touch.

I have a Regional Race coming up at the end of the month I can do some testing. Then the bigger challenge will be seen in ND the week after.

For those that are thinking that they can just add a little wieght to the rear pod instead of going through all this.... it will take roughly 1/4ou added to the outter edge of the diff side tire to correct it. Of course it does not make sence to add weight to a tire. It would take over a 1/2ou if you stuck it to the outside edge of your motor mount. My personal hunch is that it will do more harm then good trying to add weight in this manor.

If you are going to tweak the car with a b/l system, leave the rear wheels on the stationary part of the tweak bar. That way, the weight imbalance will not show up when you tweak the front. You wont be able to spin the car around then with the rears on the moveable bar and get a flat result... the diff side will show light.
Hope this works out and if it does I see orders coming in

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Old 03-23-2007, 02:55 AM   #24356
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Good idea.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:12 AM   #24357
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FF-07's

got ours on Wed in the UK this week

1 will be running on Sat night @ TRCC the other hopefully Wed night next week.

Will post more when they have been run
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:35 AM   #24358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car
What size/diameter do you true your front and rears too.
1 to 2mm smaller than the rear.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:38 AM   #24359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Suzuki
other than jaco what other tires will fit the l4
CRC HIGH ROLLERS
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:50 AM   #24360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
It's funny this conversation is just hitting the forums. I have been chatting some with James about moving the b/l motor over. I was not aware the Jason was looking at it too and I have been talking to him as well. Just last night, I looked at the weight balance point of the b/l vs the brushed. Looking at OD's numbers, they are very close to mine. My scale only weighs in 5g increments. My Neo 4 Star weighs 165g w/o the harness. I have two Orion 9t that weigh 170 and 175g. Since b/l is only legal in mod (right now) I am only concerned about correcting a mod car. I found the balance difference between the two types to be 3.6mm... the b/l has it's balance point 3.6mm further away from the diff side then the brushed motor.

So, as much as a pain as it is, I am making up new upper and lower plates to move the motor mount over 3.6mm and then spin up a shorter diff hub of the same dimension. Then I will have to make a new diff thrust sleeve to soak up the difference (I know the manufacturer! ). I completed the lower plate tonight, the rest will get done in the coming days. I loosened the tweak screws and so far, it feels right on. Both sides feel about the same when you give it the light touch.

I have a Regional Race coming up at the end of the month I can do some testing. Then the bigger challenge will be seen in ND the week after.

For those that are thinking that they can just add a little wieght to the rear pod instead of going through all this.... it will take roughly 1/4ou added to the outter edge of the diff side tire to correct it. Of course it does not make sence to add weight to a tire. It would take over a 1/2ou if you stuck it to the outside edge of your motor mount. My personal hunch is that it will do more harm then good trying to add weight in this manor.

If you are going to tweak the car with a b/l system, leave the rear wheels on the stationary part of the tweak bar. That way, the weight imbalance will not show up when you tweak the front. You wont be able to spin the car around then with the rears on the moveable bar and get a flat result... the diff side will show light.
iv played with this with brushed and what iv found is no matter what you do adding weight the the left or right dose not effect how the car drives.
if you tweak your car right you wont notice anything.
what is the rear pod doing when you drive
what part of the car moves
as long as the rear pod is close to being balanced its fine
now the main chassis this is an other story,balance is key but really whos chassis is totally balanced.
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