R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-21-2007, 04:53 PM   #24331
Tech Initiate
 
ENERGY Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 30
Default

Is the antena mast still needed if you run DSM?
I know it is used for a roll over but I have yet to see it used successfuly.
__________________
http://energyracing.tripod.com
energyracing@integy.net

XRAY T2007 / Associated B4 / IRS Rug Rat
www.fastcats.ca / www.sidsraceway.com
ENERGY Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 04:56 PM   #24332
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Dude, you can go ahead and chance going without, but at the nationals even in the top qualifiers I saw people bouncing off their antennas and back onto their wheels. Definately not worth not having.
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 05:30 PM   #24333
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Oh yeah it's definately still needed. For 2 reasons...first the apparent reason of rolling the car back over on to it's wheels. Yes it doesn't always do that but most times it does. Second is when it doesn't roll it back over it still stops the car much more quickly allowing a turn marshall to get to your car quicker. Lexan bodies really are slick so when your car is on it's lid it can slide quite far before coming to a stop.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 07:53 PM   #24334
Tech Elite
 
RCSteve93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Oh yeah it's definately still needed. For 2 reasons...first the apparent reason of rolling the car back over on to it's wheels. Yes it doesn't always do that but most times it does. Second is when it doesn't roll it back over it still stops the car much more quickly allowing a turn marshall to get to your car quicker. Lexan bodies really are slick so when your car is on it's lid it can slide quite far before coming to a stop.
My car slides on its roof and hits walls and breaks, and I still don't use one. I don't like the look of an antenna and my theory is that it creates areodynamic drag. A roll over antenna is about 3mm in diameter and about 20 cm tall... Now imagine that on a real car. The race director at my track kept on telling me to run a roll over antenna, and I didn't, so he set up a fund to buy me a roll over antenna. A days worth of soda machine change from fellow racers got me a free roll over antenna, and I didnt use it. I did try using a roll over antenna once, and I didn't like it.
__________________
rm -rf /windows
RCSteve93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 08:26 PM   #24335
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

The best 1/12th drivers in the world, guys that don't roll that much, all run roll over antennas. They see the value in time saved waiting for a turn marshall compared to landing on thier wheels and continuing if they do roll the car. I guess they are just not worried about the aerodynamic drag
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 08:39 PM   #24336
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93
My car slides on its roof and hits walls and breaks, and I still don't use one. I don't like the look of an antenna and my theory is that it creates areodynamic drag. A roll over antenna is about 3mm in diameter and about 20 cm tall... Now imagine that on a real car. The race director at my track kept on telling me to run a roll over antenna, and I didn't, so he set up a fund to buy me a roll over antenna. A days worth of soda machine change from fellow racers got me a free roll over antenna, and I didnt use it. I did try using a roll over antenna once, and I didn't like it.
That's your perogative...but when you take 10 seconds to slide on your roof to the other side of the track instead of the couple of seconds it would take for your car to come to a stop with a roll over antenna...you've just lost at least a lap in time spend sliding alone on many tracks. For me I've found that even if the antenna doesn't flip me over I'm still back on the track and racing faster then if I were sliding.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 12:56 AM   #24337
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93
My car slides on its roof and hits walls and breaks, and I still don't use one. I don't like the look of an antenna and my theory is that it creates areodynamic drag. A roll over antenna is about 3mm in diameter and about 20 cm tall... Now imagine that on a real car. The race director at my track kept on telling me to run a roll over antenna, and I didn't, so he set up a fund to buy me a roll over antenna. A days worth of soda machine change from fellow racers got me a free roll over antenna, and I didnt use it. I did try using a roll over antenna once, and I didn't like it.
Nice for you to do what you want, but when your car slides along the track and hits me on the ankles while I am marshalling another car...

It's happened to me and it hurts. In America I imagine you would get sued a lot if this happened. Try thinking of other people in this situation, and not just what you want. Antenna are not only there for the driver's benefit...
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 04:59 AM   #24338
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ENERGY Racing
Is the antena mast still needed if you run DSM?
I know it is used for a roll over but I have yet to see it used successfuly.
the antenna you have to run
a 1/12 car with out is sacra ledge
its a rule to have it
my rule
jk
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 08:02 PM   #24339
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Here's a question for the 1/12th manufacturers out there:

A thought I had while perusing the 12th scale gallery thread...Brushless seems to really be picking up in the industry, I noticed the cars running brushless setups where people actually balanced out the car with the electronics often end up with the ESC and the servo, the 2 heaviest electronic components, on the right hand side of the car. So it seems the center of mass on a brushless motor is significantly to the left of where it is on a brushed motor. Is there any plans to re-center the pod as it were for brushless motors to better balance the rear pod?
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 08:19 PM   #24340
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Here's a question for the 1/12th manufacturers out there:

A thought I had while perusing the 12th scale gallery thread...Brushless seems to really be picking up in the industry, I noticed the cars running brushless setups where people actually balanced out the car with the electronics often end up with the ESC and the servo, the 2 heaviest electronic components, on the right hand side of the car. So it seems the center of mass on a brushless motor is significantly to the left of where it is on a brushed motor. Is there any plans to re-center the pod as it were for brushless motors to better balance the rear pod?
i think Jason from BMI is working on that
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 08:22 PM   #24341
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

but still isent the rear of the car too heavy any ways with brushless
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 08:23 PM   #24342
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
but still isent the rear of the car too heavy any ways with brushless
i think the lrp motor is a little lighter than the novak
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 08:25 PM   #24343
Tech Elite
 
RCSteve93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
i think the lrp motor is a little lighter than the novak
Ther was and ad in RC Car Action for LRP, and they said it was about 15 grams lighter than a brushed motor.
__________________
rm -rf /windows
RCSteve93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 09:02 PM   #24344
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

really.
lrp any good tho
and what star for 1/12.
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2007, 10:34 PM   #24345
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
really.
lrp any good tho
and what star for 1/12.
3 star
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:59 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0