R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-21-2003, 09:03 AM   #2416
Tech Master
 
Bigtbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
Send a message via AIM to Bigtbone
Default CRC question

Why does my 1/12 carprt knife pull to the left when I grab the trigger? Diff too tight?
Bigtbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 09:25 AM   #2417
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Bone - I assume you have checked all the bearings and all of them spin freely. Your differential tightness wouldn't cause this. One thing to check is the offset of the rear axle in the motor pod. Make sure the rear wheels are centered to the center of the car. The next thing is to work with the toe-in and centering of the servo saver. I suggest .010 or less toe-out when measuring half way up the front wheel. Toe-in is something I stay away from. When setting this stuff, I rool the car across a smooth floor and adjust the steering links till it goes straight. Time consuming but worth it in the end.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 11:16 AM   #2418
Tech Master
 
Bigtbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
Send a message via AIM to Bigtbone
Default

David,

Thanks,--- Yeah I checked the bearings that is what puzzeled me so much.
My xxxs was doing the same thing(pulluing left) and Poof front left bearing was toast-rightfully so after almost 2 years on it.. Got a new set from ACER on the way..

I will check the axel/wheel center -- sounds like that could be it .. I did not put much care in to checking that when I put it together. Lazy? naw Im just used to larger scale cars, axels come fixed size..

Is the IRS light weight axel set any good? just picked one up.. maybe Ill put it in tonight and look closely at the points you mentioned.
Bigtbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 11:25 AM   #2419
Tech Master
 
Bigtbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
Send a message via AIM to Bigtbone
Default

O yeah Im gonna check the toe too..
Bigtbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 11:35 AM   #2420
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Mclean, VA
Posts: 3,940
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default Re: YRX 12 hard chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by Eddie M
Hello Fellow racers,


Is anyone know if this is the .084 thick chassis for the YRX 12?

Part Number: YSP12HC4H
YRX-12 CHASSIS-4 CELL, hard

You are correct. The .084 thick chassis is the YSP12HC4H
YRX-12 CHASSIS-4 CELL, hard chassis. It looks like Stormer has them in stock now. I got one from Pit Stop Hobbies coming this week.

Yokomo is supposed to come out with a thick SSG chassis quite soon as well.
Apex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 11:55 AM   #2421
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Bone - anything from IRS is on stilts.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 12:43 PM   #2422
Tech Apprentice
 
Stevie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: england/NOTTS
Posts: 85
Default

Has any one with a Corally tried difrent tyre sizes,if so what size seems best,i know RC12L are better with wheels under 50mm,but ive seen most people that have Corallys seem to favor bigger tyre sizes 52mm-50mm,just wondering what other Corally drivers find to be the best tyre sizes..?..
cheers
stevie
Stevie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 01:14 PM   #2423
Tech Master
 
Bigtbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
Send a message via AIM to Bigtbone
Default

While on tire subject What size is good for carpet knife?
Bigtbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 01:32 PM   #2424
Tech Regular
 
LouisB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Guernsey, UK
Posts: 404
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Stevie
Has any one with a Corally tried difrent tyre sizes,if so what size seems best,i know RC12L are better with wheels under 50mm,but ive seen most people that have Corallys seem to favor bigger tyre sizes 52mm-50mm,just wondering what other Corally drivers find to be the best tyre sizes..?..
cheers
stevie
I like to run around 50mm, my G2 is much more predictable and easy to drive like that. I've seen other corally drivers' lap times increase when their tyres go much below that but L/L3s still go fine.
LouisB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 04:36 PM   #2425
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Cool Sweet!!!!

I just got my spashett ed switch blade Itis so cool,(better than i expected!!)The purple aluminum servo mounts screws, axle, etc looks great! i cant wait to get the turnbuckles and manual...by the way, does anyone have the parts numbers for the turnbucles...im going to call trinity for a manual tomorrow, and ask them what turnbukles i need( if u don't know )

Cant wait to get it up and running
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 05:30 PM   #2426
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
as i compared my car to some pictures...it seams that mine is different....i don't know exactly how to explain it but here it goes: On the front end, there are 2 plastic arms on the left and the right...The top one has a threaded rod conecting to i think the steering knuckle(don't know if thats what the part is) and the bottom arm is connected to a plate thats like a centemeter above the chassis...i am wondering what the name of my car is to get the right manual.....It seems that i only need 2 turnbucles so could i use rc12l3 turnbuckles??

Thanx
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 06:32 PM   #2427
Tech Regular
 
wheelmanST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 483
Send a message via AIM to wheelmanST
Default

Are you saying you have the associated style front end??? if you are then yes you can use the rc12l3 turnbuckles for the steering links. also i think the front end may have been different for the older models of the trinity car, the revolver. if i remember right it has two plastic arms like you described, but im not sure if it used turnbuckles or not. could you post a pic? i would be able to tell you when i see it
wheelmanST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 10:48 PM   #2428
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

Here see if this works...this is from the buy sell fourm...so if it doesn't work, look on either the 14, 15, or 16 page to find a pic.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=263166
I saw them at my LHS and tower has them for around 10, so if i could use them, it would save a little money
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 10:51 PM   #2429
Tech Regular
 
wheelmanST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 483
Send a message via AIM to wheelmanST
Default

yea thats a trinity revolver...the older model before the switchblade. if you are needing the turnbuckles that go to the servo saver for steering, the rc12l3 ones will work fine.
wheelmanST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 10:58 PM   #2430
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

thanks..that will save me a little money..now i just have to phone trinity about a manual for the revolver, and will be set...i noticed that a standard servo wont fit...o well mini servos arent too much the car looks as if it was just produced not an older model(after reading many race reports, it seems that the newest 1/12 isn't nessesary for winning...doesn't seem to be to much new tecnology...or has there )

Thanks again
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (2 members and 1 guests)
antlockyer, robk
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:34 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0