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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-12-2007, 02:38 AM   #24151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Maybe you guys can help with this. My car handles great when I stay on the throttle and just adjust to the speed I need for each corner. But if I let completely off the throttle it's like I'm slamming on the brakes and the car gets loose. I'm using a P2K2 motor and a blue can Fantom Team Stock motor with a Quantum 2 ESC. I've got the punch set at 2, initial brake was at 2 I just reset it to 0, and the automatic brake is at 0. I just changed the initial brake but judging by sound it still seems like letting go of the throttle is the same as slamming on the brakes. Think maybe I'm running too much spring on the motor or is it a setup issue and not the brakes at all?
Haven't been running 1/12 long enough to give setup advice. However, a torquey motor like the P2K2 will have a lot of 'braking' action when letting off the throttle. You could try running larger rear tires to help keep the motor spinning, and/or bump up your transmitter neutral trim to a very slow roll.
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Old 03-12-2007, 03:56 AM   #24152
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I tried that...bumped up my trim to max and it still wasn't rolling yet...I think I'll have to add in some sub trim.

Edit - I redid the setup on the ESC and now I can get it to roll with the sub trim so maybe that will work. Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:05 AM   #24153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
i measure my ball ends to a sertin length then cut
i have different ball ends for different droop settings
with or with out washers under the balls
from 0 to 2mm droop depending on how the track is.
if you move the ball forward the change is too great.
i think anyways
you can get a more precise change by cutting the 1 ball end.

yes,i agree,what i am talking about is not pod droop though.hmm,i dont want to sound like i am being nasty because i am really not.typing never sounds good. what i am talking about is strictly just changing the pivot point.you adjust your pod droop afterwards.i always maintain a certain amount of pod droop but i mess with different pivot positions to alter the cars feel and handling by changing the length and angle with keeping the pod droop the same with a longer ball cup or shorter if needed.you know what i am saying?
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:18 AM   #24154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ffejdat
Hey all, I have a few more pics of the Jari FF-07 chassis
what are the shims/spacers for in this pic, (those inside the red circle) ?
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:41 AM   #24155
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the ones up and to the left are for ride hight under the new style crc front end. the others are bad to go under the t-plate for the rear pod, and the 2 real small ones only one gets used. it to shim up the front side of the flex plate that this car uses!
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:01 PM   #24156
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onroad dude, tell Jari I need a set of the ride heights for the front-end, any way you can get a set and send them to me???


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Old 03-12-2007, 10:00 PM   #24157
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you have a pm
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:05 AM   #24158
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Lightbulb FF-07 chassis

FF-07 chassis

Jari & you guys that are running the above chassis

1. what set-ups are you using?

2. what effect do the screws in the 'tweak bar tuning fork' above the t-bar have on the chassis when moved front to rear
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:11 AM   #24159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
FF-07 chassis

Jari & you guys that are running the above chassis

1. what set-ups are you using?

2. what effect do the screws in the 'tweak bar tuning fork' above the t-bar have on the chassis when moved front to rear

Tweak plate is replacing tweak screws and it will give more side-to-side stiffness settings w/o changing t-plate thickness. So keep screws front you will have soft side-to-side spring and all the way back you have stiff one. Also you can turn plate 180 and you will have 4 stiffer options to play with. You basically can use .063 plate and have 0.075 side-to-side feeling and .063 feeling back-to-back. Normally I using 0.063 plate and screws second hole from front.
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:41 AM   #24160
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what do you guys use for tube lube on pavement i run a gen x
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:23 AM   #24161
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Jari- Sent you a PM.

-James
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:51 PM   #24162
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I know most of you don't run a 12L3, but...

I have one I am trying out 1/12 with. I have converted a few of my s/s packs to saddle 4cell packs, and I am going to start with a ROAR stock (old NIB Midnight 2) motor.

I have a 100 tooth 64p gear with it, is there a workable pinion to run stock for this car? New(size) CRC foams. The spur is a Kimborough... does it use the 1/8" diffballs? I got no balls!

I have only run a 1/12 a couple of times... we have a strong 1/12 class at my track.. so should be fun I hope.
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:11 PM   #24163
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crc front pro cut front tires. did they change the mold? had some before but this new set has a ton of end play with the standard bearings, do you have to run flang with them now?
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:13 PM   #24164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
I know most of you don't run a 12L3, but...

I have one I am trying out 1/12 with. I have converted a few of my s/s packs to saddle 4cell packs, and I am going to start with a ROAR stock (old NIB Midnight 2) motor.

I have a 100 tooth 64p gear with it, is there a workable pinion to run stock for this car? New(size) CRC foams. The spur is a Kimborough... does it use the 1/8" diffballs? I got no balls!

I have only run a 1/12 a couple of times... we have a strong 1/12 class at my track.. so should be fun I hope.
best thing on the gearing is to ask at the track,1/8 are the starndard.
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:21 PM   #24165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfritz
crc front pro cut front tires. did they change the mold? had some before but this new set has a ton of end play with the standard bearings, do you have to run flang with them now?
you have to use flanged bearings
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