R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-19-2003, 11:09 PM   #2401
Tech Regular
 
007yoshi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 322
Send a message via ICQ to 007yoshi Send a message via AIM to 007yoshi
Default

Please? Can anyone tell me how the yok yrx w.e. performs?
007yoshi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 06:38 AM   #2402
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Sauber - the Team Associated website has the publication you need. The web address is http://www.rc10.com/
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 11:33 AM   #2403
Tech Master
 
Bobby Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default 1/12th stock motor setup

Does anyone have some experience on brush/spring combo for a stock motor for 12th scale?

I have both a P2K2 Pro in the car now and will have a Monster Green Machine soon. Looking for a good combination that will produce some decent torque and allow the motor to stay consistent from the beginning of the race till the end.

I'm currently using green springs on both sides with serrated Reedy 767 brushes with the edges slightly beveled to reduce wrap on the comm.

Thanks

Bob Zahn
Bobby Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 11:41 AM   #2404
Company Representative
 
Tres's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: WWW.TNT-FX.COM
Posts: 3,403
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Bobby Z:
Try the Axiom 1203's brushes with 9oz on both sides.
Tres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 03:26 PM   #2405
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Talking

In the moster stock motor fourm, ive seen that the trinity green springs work well, and in Xtreme rc, the trinity 4499's are recomended....
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 03:35 PM   #2406
Tech Elite
 
KINGZJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: South Milwaukee,WISCONSIN
Posts: 2,068
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to KINGZJ
Default

bobby z you have the setup listed in your post just keep the motor fresh and it will be fine. That is what I am doing to mine and they really don't seem to fall off ( I am running 3300's)
KINGZJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 03:39 PM   #2407
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

I don't know if this is what it is called, but what is a brush terminal????i thought i saw the name on some brushes trinity brushes on tower, but never heard of them...mabe im starting to see things
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 04:15 PM   #2408
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,811
Default

It probably means the little eyelet that some brushes have to screw them on.
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 06:08 PM   #2409
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

is there any gain to having one...or isn't it worth it????
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 06:22 PM   #2410
Tech Regular
 
wheelmanST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 483
Send a message via AIM to wheelmanST
Default

its the little eyelet on the end of the brush...just makes it easier since you screw the brush to the hood instead of solder. no performance gains or loss. i prefer to solder mine tho
wheelmanST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 07:53 PM   #2411
Tech Master
 
Bobby Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Tres, Switchblad and Kingzj

thanks for the tips on motor setup. glad to see I'm somewhat close. I think I will try a slightly softer spring then green to compare.

Bob
Bobby Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2003, 11:16 PM   #2412
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 4
Default new to 1/12

thanks for all the suggestions guys, i have one more Question. which chassis's can run on both four cell and 6 cell. which classes would i use 6 cell.
thanx
monkey27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 02:09 AM   #2413
Tech Regular
 
RCsilly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Redford Mi. Trying to keep up with Tim Stamper
Posts: 300
Default Monster Stock Rollout

What have you guys been running for a rollout an a large open carpet track with the monster. I'm running around 1.85" with a GM3 , looking for a starting point , I've heard as low as a 1.65" but that seems low to me. I don't want to be smoked on the straights.

thanks Bob
RCsilly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 04:16 AM   #2414
Tech Regular
 
RC Nitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NN Virginia
Posts: 432
Default

Bob: I do not run monsters, but with a P2K2 I run 96/27 w/48mm tires ==> 42 rollout. 48mm~ 1.90 ==> 1.68 rollout. This P2K2 rev's higher than my others on the dyno and I gear as such. I ran a 96/24 combo with an MVP, 37.7 in english units 1.49. BUT my track is 55x23
RC Nitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2003, 08:16 AM   #2415
Tech Adept
 
Eddie M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default YRX 12 hard chassis

Hello Fellow racers,


Is anyone know if this is the .084 thick chassis for the YRX 12?

Part Number: YSP12HC4H
YRX-12 CHASSIS-4 CELL, hard
Eddie M is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:22 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0