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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-18-2003, 09:47 PM   #2386
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i'm sure that there is someone out there who can explain to me the difference between mounting the steeing servo flat on the chassis versus mounting it angled. (associated style)

i've seen it both ways on many styles of chassis, but have never gotten a straight answer on what exactly it is doing.

peter
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Old 02-18-2003, 10:35 PM   #2387
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Mounting the servo flat or angled changes the ackerman. Each chassis and front end is different which effects the ackerman also.
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Old 02-18-2003, 11:28 PM   #2388
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In addition to ackerman, the different mounting positions also change the amount of bump steer.

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Old 02-19-2003, 12:22 AM   #2389
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so what am i going to notice on the track between the two options for servo mounting?

peter
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Old 02-19-2003, 05:35 AM   #2390
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normally you run the servo flat for the old style front end, and the servo angled for every other front end.

monkey27- I would highly suggest the speedmerchant rev. 3, its very similar to the carpet knife but has a few minor design differences that make it a better car. Such as adjustable battery position, the old style front end (which is better for carpet), as well as how the car pivots the rear pod is better on the rev. 3. Also not having a t-plate is a huge advantage, there are really no parts that break, and the car is alot simpler. Also because its all springs and damper tubes and not flexing plastic, its alot more consistant.
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:47 AM   #2391
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Stormperson, I tried that header board under the arms. It worked ok, but the set up I had before seemed easier to drive to me. It gave me 2 degrees of camber. What do you run? It still pushes in the middle of the turn. So I'm going to get another servo saver and try some orange tweak springs. It handles good, but I know it could be better. I usually run 2nd or 3rd, but the leader is always around 3 laps ahead.

I've run my Speedmerchant with the servo flat, but I couldn't get full steering throw. So I use the aluminum angle mounts now and I can get more throw out of the steering.
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:03 AM   #2392
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Peter - Travis just started running a 12th scale Hyperdrive and uses a flat servo mount. You may want to ask him when you see him again.

BTW, Impressive 19t track record with your Evo 3. I'd like to see the car sometime.
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Old 02-19-2003, 02:12 PM   #2393
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dean,

i already asked trivis about the servo postion, and he could not explain, that's why i brought my question here.

you can see the new car if you are going to race tonight at the rain. i thought that i saw you post somewhere that you were going to race tonight because sam was on mid-winter break..?

i'm on vacation from school right now too, so i will definately be there tonight.

peter
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Old 02-19-2003, 02:15 PM   #2394
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I cant make it tonight. I have to show a house @ 5:30 in Tukwila. I don't think I can make it up there in time.
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Old 02-19-2003, 03:01 PM   #2395
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scrad-While i never measured it, i would assume it gives you something around 2 degrees of camber. If you need more servo throw i would say something else is wrong. Also i think angled mounts give you different ackerman the most i ever run is 75%, and thats in mod. How much of your tires are you saucing? also make sure nothing is rubbing (since i had that problem before i dremeled down my ball cups). If you are pushing, then try stiffer side springs/thicker stuff in damper tubes. Also try some more pre-load in the springs possibly.

Your car shouldnt be 3 laps off, unless something is really off mechanically. If the car is built correctly and you have decent packs, motor and driving you should be much closer. Just check to make sure nothing is binding or incorrectly build or need of repair (diff, side links, tweak, front end, tires, etc....)
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Old 02-19-2003, 06:03 PM   #2396
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Like I said before I usually run 2nd or 3rd out of 9 people of so. It's just the one guy is really fast. I don't have the problem with steering throw anymore. I'm running the white springs and medium fluid. I'm going to try the orange ones again. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 02-19-2003, 06:26 PM   #2397
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The Flyer for the are in.

Norrca On-road Natís
May 16, 17, and 18th
http://swr.arroyoc.net/index.cfm?fus...rint&event=102


Speedworld Challenge Cup
April 26-27
http://swr.arroyoc.net/index.cfm?fus...rint&event=101

let try and get a full field of Pro 10 and 1/12th.
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:27 PM   #2398
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Default Re: new to 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by monkey27
hey guys im new to 1/12. im debating between the rc12l3, switchblade12, and carpet knife. excluding price what are the pros and cons of each. which one would u suggest i get thanks
the trinity cars i have heard have bad parts support.....doesn't bother me ordering directly from them or having by LHS order the parts
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:37 PM   #2399
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is the norrca on road nats going to be on carpet?
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:39 PM   #2400
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I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I just bought an old rc12L, and it's missing a few peices. I can't seem to find an instruction manual online so that I can see exactly what parts I need. And my axle is only threaded on one end, is this normal?
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