R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 09-20-2017, 08:54 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: DesertRat
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time. On black carpet the car may be numb to sauce changes, either a long or short sauce can produce very similar handling.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front. Alternatively you can sauce the front tires harder and tune the car for less front end bite.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz. Possibly a longer sauce will prevent fuzzing.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

Print Wikipost

Like Tree62Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-30-2001, 08:30 PM   #226
Regional Moderator
 
kansasracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,615
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

OK,

I have been reading this thread for a while now because I am in the market for a 12th scale. Never knew anything about them...

After reading everybodies posts, I have come to a conclusion:

If everything is based on the Associated car and they all seem a little more expensive (Carpet Knife 3.1, Corally) or confusing to tune (Rev. 3 from Speedmerchant)

Why not just buy the Associated car?

I want to get a car, could someone please explain.

Thanks
kansasracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2001, 11:28 PM   #227
JB
Tech Regular
 
JB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 273
Default

Uhh, guys ive got a little problem on my hands here.

Im planning on attending a race in just less than two weeks in Fairfield, Ca with my Switchblade12 but i have a broken part on it. The graphite bottom motorplate was snapped in half dividing the center rear Tbar hole into two semicircles. I temporarily fixed it with some super glue and it held together for the race but Im not sure what luck will give me at the upcoming race. Murphys law says it'll break

I cant find this part ANYWHERE and no i havent just seached towerhobbies and said, 'oh, must not exist anywhere on the net'. Ive really looked.

The part number is SB9821 and if its not completely out of production (EEK) i'll probably just ask my LHS to special order it and hope it comes in on time but im asking if anybody around here has any idea of the list price, or what a direct replacement would be if it were not in existance anymore. Thats a purple flake graphite part so maybe theres a ordinary graphite or carbon fiber part that someone knows about.
JB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2001, 12:03 AM   #228
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

www.teamcrc.com has there online shop up.

VVV SWEET!!!

fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2001, 12:13 PM   #229
Tech Master
 
psycho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,520
Default

spongebob

If you draw an imaginary line, perpendicular to the ground, through the lower steering pivot point and bring the upper steering pivot point to that line, you have zero degrees caster. That's what the "flush" caster blocks will give you if you put the nylon spacer on either side. You can put both spacers on one side to add a small amount of caster. The "angled" caster block is 10 degrees of caster. Again, you can mess with the nylon spacers to add more or less caster as needed.

As you add caster, the car will feel less "twitchy" and have greater straight line stability. The drawback is that the steering will not feel as responsive, so you may have to set up for turns earlier or steer harder to have the same amount of steering. Personally, I like a combination of caster and steering exponential to get the feel right for me.
psycho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2001, 01:46 PM   #230
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
OK,

I have been reading this thread for a while now because I am in the market for a 12th scale. Never knew anything about them...

After reading everybodies posts, I have come to a conclusion:

If everything is based on the Associated car and they all seem a little more expensive (Carpet Knife 3.1, Corally) or confusing to tune (Rev. 3 from Speedmerchant)

Why not just buy the Associated car?

I want to get a car, could someone please explain.
The Associated 12L3 is a great car, but it's really better on asphalt than on carpet. The Calandra and Speedmerchant cars are designed specifically for carpet, and having driven all three I believe they do a better job on carpet than the Associated.

The reason that they use Associated front ends is that there's really nothing wrong with the Assiociated front end, so why try to fix something that's already working...

The Corally 1/12 scale cars are not based on the Associated car at all, they're very different. Also great cars, and somewhat less maintenance intensive than the rest. It's a bit harder to find parts for the Corally at most local shops, and they use wheels unlike the American cars, which can also be tough to find locally.

Trips
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2001, 02:57 PM   #231
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

just wondering, whats the difference between the crc and the speedmerchant?

also who makes the best rear axle? nifftec, ae, or IRS?
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2001, 03:37 PM   #232
Tech Master
 
Peter Busch's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,491
Default

Thanks Psycho.


Storm, Niftech makes the best axel by far, it uses 12 diff balls insted of 6 so you dont have to tighten it as much to make it not slip which makes it smoother, but watch out if you call them up, he will try to convince you that all the top drivers use his stuff and anyone who wants to win uses Niftech. Nice stuff but the guy is full of crap, he probably used to sell used cars.

The CRC carpet knife and the speedmerchant are very similar, I think on the Speedmerchant you can move the battery back and forth.
Peter Busch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2001, 04:16 PM   #233
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

can i order his stuff off the interenet? also anything else i should get from him while i am at it?

just wondering then, if there really isnt that much of a difference, then who makes them actually? i also noticed that the CRC uses the new front end.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2001, 07:15 AM   #234
Super Moderator
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,411
Trader Rating: 71 (100%+)
Default

The number of diff balls is dependent on the manufacturer of the spur gear. I perfer the Kimbrough gears over anything else.
Kraig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2001, 08:01 AM   #235
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Stormperson: While I'm not a 1/12th expert, I have owned the Carpet Knife and now own the SpeedMerchant. To my untrained eye ...

The side links on the CK are fixed. On the SM Rev.2 &3 the side links are adjustable (length wise). Another difference is the front end. The CK uses the current Associated front end, the Rev. 2 & 3 both use the "Old School" front ends. The side damper tubes are mounted in front of the body post on the SpeedMerchant, while on the Carpet Knife, they are mounted behind the body posts. Last, as Mr. Square Pants mentioned, the Rev.3 uses a battery tray that allows adjustment of the battery forward or back so many milimeters.

kansasracer: I have been told that cars that use a "T" bar (Associated 12L and Switchblade), require adjustment more often than cars like the Carpet Knife and SpeedMerchant that don't use "T" bars. Supposedly, the reason is that the material that the T bar is made of (FRP) can become "tweaked" as a result of an impact. When this happens, the T bar must be replaced or adjusted to fix or compensate for the failure.

No flames please, I'm relaying what I've heard. I race at The Track in MD, and many of the guys are Sponsored by CRC and Speedmerchant. Although there are Trinity Sponsored guys that kick major but too.
Geppetto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2001, 03:27 PM   #236
Regional Moderator
 
kansasracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,615
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

OK,
Thanks for the answers...I have narrowed it down to either the Carpet Knife or the SM Rev.3...

And I am sure that it's just personal preference to which one is better, right? Someone please correct me if I'm not...

But I don't want to start one of those Associated/Losi style feuds

Is there any significanmt difference in either of these cars? I can't seem to find any after looking at designs and specs...

Thanks
kansasracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2001, 04:53 AM   #237
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

kansasracer: I got my Rev.3 kit in a trade, and although it is brand new the box had been opened. I've had to purchace some parts but that may be because the previous owner neglected to give them to me. The instructions, however, were included and IMO are not at all helpful for someone unfamiliar to these cars. There are NO images, only text!!!

The Carpet Knife kit that I bought came with an instruction manual that included photos of the chassis to aid in building.

If you're used to building kits produced by manufacturers like Yokomo, Associated, Losi etc., you're in for culture shock. The instructions for both of these kits leave a lot to be desired. On the other hand, 1/12th scale cars are relatively simple and with a little help you'll do alright.

If I were deciding between the two, I would get the Carpet Knife.
Geppetto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2001, 07:10 AM   #238
Regional Moderator
 
kansasracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,615
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Thanks,


I am going to get the Carpet Knife tonight. I found a store that has one in the area.

I have built cars from Serpent, HPI, Losi so I am sure there will be some cussing, but I guess at least there text will be in English.


My Atlas was mostly Japaneese
kansasracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2001, 08:52 AM   #239
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 56
Default Good deal on 12L3

I just posted a great deal on 12L3. Please check out the For Sale section. Thanks.
Yuchol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2001, 11:04 AM   #240
Tech Regular
 
Dragon Slayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: tx
Posts: 358
Send a message via Yahoo to Dragon Slayer
Default

Question.....if you go from 4 cell stock to 6 cell stock do you change the gearing..drop a tooth or so with the 6 cell???...thanks.
Dragon Slayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 5 (1 members and 4 guests)
Mr.Cooper
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:00 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net