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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-30-2001, 09:30 PM   #226
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OK,

I have been reading this thread for a while now because I am in the market for a 12th scale. Never knew anything about them...

After reading everybodies posts, I have come to a conclusion:

If everything is based on the Associated car and they all seem a little more expensive (Carpet Knife 3.1, Corally) or confusing to tune (Rev. 3 from Speedmerchant)

Why not just buy the Associated car?

I want to get a car, could someone please explain.

Thanks
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Old 10-31-2001, 12:28 AM   #227
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Uhh, guys ive got a little problem on my hands here.

Im planning on attending a race in just less than two weeks in Fairfield, Ca with my Switchblade12 but i have a broken part on it. The graphite bottom motorplate was snapped in half dividing the center rear Tbar hole into two semicircles. I temporarily fixed it with some super glue and it held together for the race but Im not sure what luck will give me at the upcoming race. Murphys law says it'll break

I cant find this part ANYWHERE and no i havent just seached towerhobbies and said, 'oh, must not exist anywhere on the net'. Ive really looked.

The part number is SB9821 and if its not completely out of production (EEK) i'll probably just ask my LHS to special order it and hope it comes in on time but im asking if anybody around here has any idea of the list price, or what a direct replacement would be if it were not in existance anymore. Thats a purple flake graphite part so maybe theres a ordinary graphite or carbon fiber part that someone knows about.
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Old 10-31-2001, 01:03 AM   #228
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www.teamcrc.com has there online shop up.

VVV SWEET!!!

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Old 10-31-2001, 01:13 PM   #229
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spongebob

If you draw an imaginary line, perpendicular to the ground, through the lower steering pivot point and bring the upper steering pivot point to that line, you have zero degrees caster. That's what the "flush" caster blocks will give you if you put the nylon spacer on either side. You can put both spacers on one side to add a small amount of caster. The "angled" caster block is 10 degrees of caster. Again, you can mess with the nylon spacers to add more or less caster as needed.

As you add caster, the car will feel less "twitchy" and have greater straight line stability. The drawback is that the steering will not feel as responsive, so you may have to set up for turns earlier or steer harder to have the same amount of steering. Personally, I like a combination of caster and steering exponential to get the feel right for me.
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Old 10-31-2001, 02:46 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
OK,

I have been reading this thread for a while now because I am in the market for a 12th scale. Never knew anything about them...

After reading everybodies posts, I have come to a conclusion:

If everything is based on the Associated car and they all seem a little more expensive (Carpet Knife 3.1, Corally) or confusing to tune (Rev. 3 from Speedmerchant)

Why not just buy the Associated car?

I want to get a car, could someone please explain.
The Associated 12L3 is a great car, but it's really better on asphalt than on carpet. The Calandra and Speedmerchant cars are designed specifically for carpet, and having driven all three I believe they do a better job on carpet than the Associated.

The reason that they use Associated front ends is that there's really nothing wrong with the Assiociated front end, so why try to fix something that's already working...

The Corally 1/12 scale cars are not based on the Associated car at all, they're very different. Also great cars, and somewhat less maintenance intensive than the rest. It's a bit harder to find parts for the Corally at most local shops, and they use wheels unlike the American cars, which can also be tough to find locally.

Trips
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Old 10-31-2001, 03:57 PM   #231
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just wondering, whats the difference between the crc and the speedmerchant?

also who makes the best rear axle? nifftec, ae, or IRS?
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Old 10-31-2001, 04:37 PM   #232
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Thanks Psycho.


Storm, Niftech makes the best axel by far, it uses 12 diff balls insted of 6 so you dont have to tighten it as much to make it not slip which makes it smoother, but watch out if you call them up, he will try to convince you that all the top drivers use his stuff and anyone who wants to win uses Niftech. Nice stuff but the guy is full of crap, he probably used to sell used cars.

The CRC carpet knife and the speedmerchant are very similar, I think on the Speedmerchant you can move the battery back and forth.
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Old 10-31-2001, 05:16 PM   #233
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can i order his stuff off the interenet? also anything else i should get from him while i am at it?

just wondering then, if there really isnt that much of a difference, then who makes them actually? i also noticed that the CRC uses the new front end.
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Old 11-01-2001, 08:15 AM   #234
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The number of diff balls is dependent on the manufacturer of the spur gear. I perfer the Kimbrough gears over anything else.
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Old 11-01-2001, 09:01 AM   #235
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Stormperson: While I'm not a 1/12th expert, I have owned the Carpet Knife and now own the SpeedMerchant. To my untrained eye ...

The side links on the CK are fixed. On the SM Rev.2 &3 the side links are adjustable (length wise). Another difference is the front end. The CK uses the current Associated front end, the Rev. 2 & 3 both use the "Old School" front ends. The side damper tubes are mounted in front of the body post on the SpeedMerchant, while on the Carpet Knife, they are mounted behind the body posts. Last, as Mr. Square Pants mentioned, the Rev.3 uses a battery tray that allows adjustment of the battery forward or back so many milimeters.

kansasracer: I have been told that cars that use a "T" bar (Associated 12L and Switchblade), require adjustment more often than cars like the Carpet Knife and SpeedMerchant that don't use "T" bars. Supposedly, the reason is that the material that the T bar is made of (FRP) can become "tweaked" as a result of an impact. When this happens, the T bar must be replaced or adjusted to fix or compensate for the failure.

No flames please, I'm relaying what I've heard. I race at The Track in MD, and many of the guys are Sponsored by CRC and Speedmerchant. Although there are Trinity Sponsored guys that kick major but too.
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Old 11-01-2001, 04:27 PM   #236
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OK,
Thanks for the answers...I have narrowed it down to either the Carpet Knife or the SM Rev.3...

And I am sure that it's just personal preference to which one is better, right? Someone please correct me if I'm not...

But I don't want to start one of those Associated/Losi style feuds

Is there any significanmt difference in either of these cars? I can't seem to find any after looking at designs and specs...

Thanks
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Old 11-02-2001, 05:53 AM   #237
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kansasracer: I got my Rev.3 kit in a trade, and although it is brand new the box had been opened. I've had to purchace some parts but that may be because the previous owner neglected to give them to me. The instructions, however, were included and IMO are not at all helpful for someone unfamiliar to these cars. There are NO images, only text!!!

The Carpet Knife kit that I bought came with an instruction manual that included photos of the chassis to aid in building.

If you're used to building kits produced by manufacturers like Yokomo, Associated, Losi etc., you're in for culture shock. The instructions for both of these kits leave a lot to be desired. On the other hand, 1/12th scale cars are relatively simple and with a little help you'll do alright.

If I were deciding between the two, I would get the Carpet Knife.
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Old 11-02-2001, 08:10 AM   #238
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Thanks,


I am going to get the Carpet Knife tonight. I found a store that has one in the area.

I have built cars from Serpent, HPI, Losi so I am sure there will be some cussing, but I guess at least there text will be in English.


My Atlas was mostly Japaneese
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Old 11-02-2001, 09:52 AM   #239
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Default Good deal on 12L3

I just posted a great deal on 12L3. Please check out the For Sale section. Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2001, 12:04 PM   #240
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Question.....if you go from 4 cell stock to 6 cell stock do you change the gearing..drop a tooth or so with the 6 cell???...thanks.
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