R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-22-2007, 03:50 PM   #23896
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Colorado, Above The Rest
Posts: 992
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
I don't know, this all sounds like a bunch of smoke & mirrors to me =)
True. It's all just a matter of personal preference and finding a set-up to fit a particular driving style

-E
__________________
Team BSR
Team Power Push
Protoform Race Bodies
KSKT Racing - #1 in SK Racing Chassis
Darkside Motorsports - "WE ARE WHAT'S NEXT." - www.darksidems.com
THE DARKSIDE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 04:37 PM   #23897
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
True. It's all just a matter of personal preference and finding a set-up to fit a particular driving style

-E
THATS what im trying to say
like in offroad 2wd i cant drive the AE but the losi i can.
1/10 nitro mugen i can k car i cant.
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 07:14 PM   #23898
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Colorado, Above The Rest
Posts: 992
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Darkside Motorsports is proud to announce the addition of Steve Rossi to the team. Steve is not only a talented driver, former national champion, but one heck of a nice guy. We look forward to the input and results that Steve will bring to the team, driving our Mx2 1/12 road course chassis.

-E
__________________
Team BSR
Team Power Push
Protoform Race Bodies
KSKT Racing - #1 in SK Racing Chassis
Darkside Motorsports - "WE ARE WHAT'S NEXT." - www.darksidems.com
THE DARKSIDE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 07:22 PM   #23899
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: victoria BC
Posts: 810
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
its takin me a little bit to understand the link car cuz it dose drive different but for a so so driver like me the link is far better than a t plate.
not to say a t plate car is bad its just different.
a good setup is easier to find on a link than a t plate and when your wrong on a t plate car its a big hand full to drive
if your wrong on a link it just dives in a corner and scrubs speed or it pushes like a bastard. but you can drive it ok.
I actully found it to be opposite. The link bar car I used to run was alway a complete hand full could never get it right. I went back to my t bar car and love it. I also notice a link bar car tweak more easier. but then that could be just me.
cyrrus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 08:23 PM   #23900
Tech Elite
 
nf_ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Posts: 4,631
Trader Rating: 113 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
its takin me a little bit to understand the link car cuz it dose drive different but for a so so driver like me the link is far better than a t plate.
not to say a t plate car is bad its just different.
a good setup is easier to find on a link than a t plate and when your wrong on a t plate car its a big hand full to drive
if your wrong on a link it just dives in a corner and scrubs speed or it pushes like a bastard. but you can drive it ok.

For a guy like me that only gets to put a 12th scale down maybe 3-4 times a year, I agree the link car is just easier and a little push can be delt with. My link car almost always runs true after a quick tumble but my 12l4 would be a handfull until it settled back in. I actually ran my car with no side springs a few time and it ran pretty good
__________________
Up the Irons \m/

Powered by Hotwings, Rolling Rock, and the urge to race toy cars...
nf_ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 08:30 PM   #23901
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
For a guy like me that only gets to put a 12th scale down maybe 3-4 times a year, I agree the link car is just easier and a little push can be delt with. My link car almost always runs true after a quick tumble but my 12l4 would be a handfull until it settled back in. I actually ran my car with no side springs a few time and it ran pretty good

I along the line in the same boat on how the car reacts. I rant the Hara Hammer for awhile then the 12l4. When I would hit the wall with the AH-12 it would settle down real quick, but when the 12l4 hits the wall, it takes it awhile to settle down to get back in the groove again. I wonder if the BMI 12th scale car settles down quickly after a hit or does it take awhile like the 12l4.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 08:59 PM   #23902
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Most people I've read posts from or talked to find the t-plate cars much easier to setup and drive as link cars tend to be more agressive in steering making them better under high grip circumstances but more difficult in low to medium bite. With the exception of the CRC cars setting up adjustable links properly is not nearly as easy as a t-plate. CRC cars however make setting up a link rear suspension really easy by moving the adjustment from the links to the center pivot. I remember back when I first started running link cars with the EV10 I used to go through more rear axles then my corrosponding t-plate car because of how much more exposed the rear wheels were to collisions. That being said I love my link cars I hate saddle packs! I've been very pleased with my 3.2R Carpet Knife and even more so now with my Darkside Mx2
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 09:15 PM   #23903
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
I along the line in the same boat on how the car reacts. I rant the Hara Hammer for awhile then the 12l4. When I would hit the wall with the AH-12 it would settle down real quick, but when the 12l4 hits the wall, it takes it awhile to settle down to get back in the groove again. I wonder if the BMI 12th scale car settles down quickly after a hit or does it take awhile like the 12l4.
If you would stop crash testing your ride, you might beat Paul!
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 09:16 PM   #23904
Tech Elite
 
RCSteve93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

From what I understand, flex-plate cars need some track time before the flex-plate settles in.
__________________
rm -rf /windows
RCSteve93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2007, 09:24 PM   #23905
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
If you would stop crash testing your ride, you might beat Paul!
Hell, it has to survive my lift offs when it takes flight going into the sweepers. That is why I use 3 screws so I don't end up breaking my t-plate at the important part of the race.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2007, 03:38 AM   #23906
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: minnesota-twin cities
Posts: 132
Default

Hi Fellas,

Been a while since I posted. I am in semi-retirement from racing until funds catch up. I have a question for all you manufacturers(BMI, Darkside, Slapmaster, OD12, etc.). I saw a while back that someone had developed a "U" bar car? I am interested in doing my own chassis and car, was wondering if it is possible to go another step, like using a piece of spring steel as a u bar and running the batts down the middle, like Darkside's car. Where would a good place be to start as far as thickness of spring steel to use? I would want something comparable to .075" thick fiberglass( traditional t-bar). I would want to make a true carbon fiber chassis like the BMI car, the opposing 45 degree weaves bonded to each other sounds really strong and stiff, wondering about how thick I need to make a chassis, I know my old Trinity car( model before the black widow) was Iam guessing .125" and the Associated and CRC cars are thinner. I also know that a stiff chassis works better than a flexible one, as the suspension should be the only thing moving(right?) It would probably be cheaper to just buy that u bar car that I saw, but can't remember who makes it, I am also tore, because all of your guys' cars have something I want, and they all probably rock!
Dave S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2007, 07:19 AM   #23907
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

This may be the car you are thinking of. This is the PRC Rug Burn. We have continued to develop the car since this picture was taken and now its probably better than ever.

D.P.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-im000912.jpg  
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2007, 07:24 AM   #23908
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
I along the line in the same boat on how the car reacts. I rant the Hara Hammer for awhile then the 12l4. When I would hit the wall with the AH-12 it would settle down real quick, but when the 12l4 hits the wall, it takes it awhile to settle down to get back in the groove again. I wonder if the BMI 12th scale car settles down quickly after a hit or does it take awhile like the 12l4.
im not throwing a sales pitch here i know what you mean with the T bar car getting a little squirly after a hit.my car is very difficult to get unsettled because it is extremely hard to tweak from impacts.at the snowbirds i got punted going out to the straight and my car shot over the boards into the cement block wall.i thought for sure it had to be broken.the turn marshall put me back on the track and after 1-2 corners my tires were back in the groove and the car felt like i never crashed.my T bars cars are always really good but they do tweak after 1 or 2 appointments with the pipes.i found on link cars that when they take a good side shot the center football shifts and the car pulls to the side on acceleration.my goal with the new car was to make it not tweak with most impacts without sacrificing handling.we havent had a whole lot of time testing yet.just about 3 race days plus the snowbirds week.but so far it has been proven to work as intended.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2007, 12:30 PM   #23909
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: minnesota-twin cities
Posts: 132
Default

Dpowell,

cool car, but that isn't what I was talkin about. Looking back last night I think it was a BMI car, or one of the fellas who had orange anodizing on it. how did that car work? the one in the pic you sent me? That is kinda the idea I had, but running the batts down the center of the car
Dave S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2007, 02:12 PM   #23910
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default

Does anyone know of a source for 3/16" trailing axles for the AE strut front end?

-James
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:01 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0