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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2007, 12:16 AM   #23866
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I will ask about them and let you guys know.
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Old 02-22-2007, 03:20 AM   #23867
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Adrian thanks.

Just a another question or two .

What size reamer should one use and where can you get one?

Okay 3 questions .

what is the purpose of running only two pod screws on a t-bar car compared to running all three.

Reason for the questions on t-bar application cars. Is that I've dropped my crc. and running a t-bar car again.
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Old 02-22-2007, 06:05 AM   #23868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Adrian thanks.

Just a another question or two .

What size reamer should one use and where can you get one?

Okay 3 questions .

what is the purpose of running only two pod screws on a t-bar car compared to running all three.

Reason for the questions on t-bar application cars. Is that I've dropped my crc. and running a t-bar car again.
Leaving out the center of the three screws that attach the t-plate to the lower pod plate will soften the t-plate/shock assemble

-E
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Old 02-22-2007, 06:16 AM   #23869
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hey thanks for the info. just curious when and why would you try and soften up the rear end. My guess would be to gain extra traction coming out of corner?
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Old 02-22-2007, 06:51 AM   #23870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Adrian thanks.

Just a another question or two .

What size reamer should one use and where can you get one?

Okay 3 questions .

what is the purpose of running only two pod screws on a t-bar car compared to running all three.

Reason for the questions on t-bar application cars. Is that I've dropped my crc. and running a t-bar car again.
You can use a sharp 1/8" drill bit or order a 1/8" (.125) reamer from a tool supply company online like McMaster Carr.

Like Dark said you rear will be softer. This willmake your car better over bumps, increase rear traction and make the car turn in less agressively.

On asphalt you run the .063" T bad with 2 screws 99.9% of the time.

On carpet you can run anything from the .063" T bad with 2 screws to an .075" with all 3 screws. Its all about the feel you want to get out of the car, how bumpy the track is and and how much traction yout track has. Don't assume that because its carpet you need to run .075" with all 3 screws.
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:28 AM   #23871
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I had read someplace that BSR is releasing/working on a new rim for their 12th tires as well. has anybody seen/heard this as well?



Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Yes, they are called Pro 38's and are, well, maximum diameter-38mm. They work great! As usual with Parma the wheels are really straight and the tires excellent
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:43 AM   #23872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acyrier
I had read someplace that BSR is releasing/working on a new rim for their 12th tires as well. has anybody seen/heard this as well?
BSR did already. Our local shop has them. I believe they are just using the CRC High Roller rims.
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:44 AM   #23873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
You can use a sharp 1/8" drill bit or order a 1/8" (.125) reamer from a tool supply company online like McMaster Carr.
But do yourself a favor, spend the money, and get a .125 reamer. It's the right tool for the job. I think I bought one for $12 from Niftech, they're probably $8-10 from McMaster-Carr. You're really only removing just a hint of material--I can run my reamer in with my fingertips--but it makes a BIG difference. Remember to do as Adrian instructs, though, and ream the steering blocks AFTER you install the axles.

Scottrik
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:45 AM   #23874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
They aren't showing on the website yet.
They should be on our website later today or tomorrow. The compounds for the new Pro 38 wheels are:

16520 purple fronts
16521 magenta fronts
16532 grey rears
16534 magenta rears

Paul
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:56 AM   #23875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03
They should be on our website later today or tomorrow. The compounds for the new Pro 38 wheels are:

16520 purple fronts
16521 magenta fronts
16532 grey rears
16534 magenta rears

Paul
Paul,

Any idea if Parma will offer a "violet" compound for the front? I've taken a real liking to those for 19-T.

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:58 AM   #23876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Paul,

Any idea if Parma will offer a "violet" compound for the front? I've taken a real liking to those for 19-T.

Thanks,

Scottrik
Probably to the start of next carpet season.

Paul
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:42 AM   #23877
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what is the purpose of running only two pod screws on a t-bar car compared to running all three?.

one of the things rarely mention that it does: it enables some vertical pod movement and dampening on a t-bar car that you don't get running all 3. the pod is mounted off of 2 fiberglass fingers like the older Delta Phazer/Spyder cars of years past. for some this helps on lo-trac, bumpy tracks, and smooths out a t-bar car. in my opinion also adds alot of forward traction. to make up for this you end up having to run softer or dual compound fronts.

for people new to 12th or if your driving with drivers crashing on a straightaway infront of you for no reason....i don't recommend it. your chances of breaking a t-bar are increased over someone running all three.

i have seen many new to 12th drivers go thru 2 t-bars a race trying to run the pro set-ups they see posted. especially in mod trying try to run dbl pink, magenta, cyan, violet fronts that create more steering than they can drive or handle

what works at IIC, Cleveland, IFMAR Worlds, SB's, and for the Pros may not work at your local tracks. i recommend trying it both ways
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Old 02-22-2007, 11:46 AM   #23878
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does anyone has the part number for 1/8'' reamer from McMaster Carr?
I check the website.. most of the them cost more then $30
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Old 02-22-2007, 11:51 AM   #23879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03
They should be on our website later today or tomorrow. The compounds for the new Pro 38 wheels are:

16520 purple fronts
16521 magenta fronts
16532 grey rears
16534 magenta rears

Paul
No pink rears yet?
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Old 02-22-2007, 12:27 PM   #23880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aoizip
does anyone has the part number for 1/8'' reamer from McMaster Carr?
I check the website.. most of the them cost more then $30

Here's the info on the Niftech reamer. $10.95


1. Straight flute with close tolerances.
Full Size Image
Reamer 1/8'' (.125) (#3401-.125)
$10.95 Quanity:

See 'em at http://www.niftech.com/ Under Catalog, then Special Tools.
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