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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-20-2007, 02:54 PM   #23851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Shoe Goo. The solder tab cover is there because it looks cool (I suppose it could protect against shorts). Working on the purple solder
cool. bring me some of your 16 gauge wire next time you come to stockton so I can "test" it for you like I did the OD12
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:36 PM   #23852
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Default servo weights

While people are weighing cars has anyone weighed the most popular servos? I don't have a scale but would be curious what the difference b/w metal and plastic gears etc is. I have a feeling that what the manufacturers publish is not 100% accurate.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:12 PM   #23853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
Has anybody had any experience with the X stock motor in 12th scale? I'm looking for a range of rollouts to try this weekend and I've never used this motor before (fairly large track 90' x 50').
Fuzzy I tune and build these for our track 88 x 46 so very similar. Range seems to be 1.75 - 1.85 based on how you have the motor set up. Done well with a Slapmaster Diff and temp only in 130-140 range.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:14 PM   #23854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Here's Rich Chang's 1/12 tuning cheat sheet. Worth at least five or six times it's weight in gold...

I've got one laminated back-to-back with my Blake-issued roll-out chart.
I've got mine laminated to the Darkside Setup Sheet - something I had done for years in 1/8 scale gas!!
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:02 PM   #23855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
Has anybody had any experience with the X stock motor in 12th scale? I'm looking for a range of rollouts to try this weekend and I've never used this motor before (fairly large track 90' x 50').
Try a 46mm to 50mm rollout. Some of us are running that motor right now since it was our handout at the regionals.
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Old 02-20-2007, 08:20 PM   #23856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
Another question for you 12th scale gurus out there to ponder- Does center shock length matter on a t-bar car? On a pivot ball car this has a HUGE effect on handling by controlling the uptravel in the pod, but does it make a difference since the t-bar doesn't allow the pod to go past level.

-James
James,
In my experience, if i'm looking for a little more steering coming out of a corner (on power) I shorten the shock by 1/2 turn on the ball end. This takes away droop, and rear traction, giving the car more on power exit steering. I use it as a fine tuning adjustment.....but it makes a huge difference
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:57 PM   #23857
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Hey guy's I have a simple question.

The steering block on the king-pin.
Shoud one ream them out so that they float on the king pin.

or leave them snug. so that they ride up and down with the king-pin.

Just curious, and why.


Thanks
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:16 PM   #23858
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what do you guys think of the hara kit for the 12l4.what are the main differences between how a t bar,and pivot ball car handles????i got a 12l4 i can run both ways i never owned a 12th scale before.planning on using it on new pavement new track suface outdoors.whats the big differnce between having the servo flat or up at an angle?what 19 turn to get,was looking at checkpoint money???
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:29 PM   #23859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Hey guy's I have a simple question.

The steering block on the king-pin.
Shoud one ream them out so that they float on the king pin.

or leave them snug. so that they ride up and down with the king-pin.

Just curious, and why.


Thanks
You should ream them so the kingpin slides freely in the spindle with no play.

If you leave it tight you can crash and have the king pin push up and preload the spring making you car handle really bad.

If you ream the spindle the kingpin will always slide back to its proper orrientation.

Be sure to ream the spindle after installing your axles. Knurled and threaded axles like the Parma and CRC units will swell the plastic around them. If you install the axles after reaming the kingpin bore will distort and get tight again.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:39 PM   #23860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Yes...It mades it debut at the Snowbirds with some good results.

EA
Whaaaaaaaat!!!!!!
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:22 PM   #23861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
Another question for you 12th scale gurus out there to ponder- Does center shock length matter on a t-bar car? On a pivot ball car this has a HUGE effect on handling by controlling the uptravel in the pod, but does it make a difference since the t-bar doesn't allow the pod to go past level.

-James
I think that the difference is almost as important on a t-bar car. The physics are the same, the t-plate still moves in both directions. Not as significant only due to the fact that the t-plate is now part of the dampening system along with the shock, thus doing some of the work that only the shock does in a link car

-E
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:02 PM   #23862
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Whaaaaaaaat!!!!!!
Yes, they are called Pro 38's and are, well, maximum diameter-38mm. They work great! As usual with Parma the wheels are really straight and the tires excellent
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:30 PM   #23863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Yes, they are called Pro 38's and are, well, maximum diameter-38mm. They work great! As usual with Parma the wheels are really straight and the tires excellent
ETA?
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:57 PM   #23864
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They are supposed to have been released already.
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:41 PM   #23865
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They aren't showing on the website yet.
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