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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-20-2007, 10:53 AM   #23836
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Default Trinity Switchblade 2002 SE

Thanks for the response gubbs3.
Trinity's response to my request for parts was "Try eBay".
Will 12L4 parts fit on it? like replacing the whole front suspension to a 12L4 suspension, or will a 12L4 axle or T plates fit it?
sorry if these are stupid questions, Im a complete pan car noob.

Thanks,

Jerrit
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:04 AM   #23837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrit1
Thanks for the response gubbs3.
Trinity's response to my request for parts was "Try eBay".

That's Trinity for you.
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:36 AM   #23838
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Has anybody had any experience with the X stock motor in 12th scale? I'm looking for a range of rollouts to try this weekend and I've never used this motor before (fairly large track 90' x 50').
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:54 AM   #23839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
What I liked at 'Birds was the 29ou min. weight they inforced. For some reason, they didn't follow Roar's 28ou limit. It must be they realise that it's going to be very difficult to get a car to that limit, so why bother. I was pleasantly surprised that I had to add a 1/4ou. to my stocker, too.

I have used the gurney flap on a 12B and on a CRC LMP. It sticks the rear down more and takes away corner entry steering (if you need that). The Speed 8 & 12 have proper balance, so it's not really needed. The 8HD is screwed to the ground even more.


773g! Did you weigh it with the body too?
No I forgot it.

819 grams with a Parma Speed 8 HD.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:13 PM   #23840
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I'm trying to hook my buddy on a setup help guide for 12th scale. He has a 12L4 and has lots of questions. I've directed him to Mr. Payne's blog and I know there are more technical bases out there, I just am having a hard time locating them. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:17 PM   #23841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwalters
I'm trying to hook my buddy on a setup help guide for 12th scale. He has a 12L4 and has lots of questions. I've directed him to Mr. Payne's blog and I know there are more technical bases out there, I just am having a hard time locating them. Thanks in advance.
http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:22 PM   #23842
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Here's Rich Chang's 1/12 tuning cheat sheet. Worth at least five or six times it's weight in gold...

I've got one laminated back-to-back with my Blake-issued roll-out chart.
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Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:32 PM   #23843
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Jerrit- I really don't have any idea what other parts will fit the car. I have never needed to try.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:41 PM   #23844
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Another question for you 12th scale gurus out there to ponder- Does center shock length matter on a t-bar car? On a pivot ball car this has a HUGE effect on handling by controlling the uptravel in the pod, but does it make a difference since the t-bar doesn't allow the pod to go past level.

-James
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:44 PM   #23845
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Thanks guys, he's worried about how everyone else's cars look in the pits instead of how his rideis on the track. How do most run the smaller diameter tires front and rear without sacrificing ride height? I too have an L4 and run front without spacers and rear with CRC lowered pods and #4 down but is there something else a guy can do to prevent traction rolling and tire chunking due to thick sidewalled tires?
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:52 PM   #23846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwalters
Thanks guys, he's worried about how everyone else's cars look in the pits instead of how his rideis on the track. How do most run the smaller diameter tires front and rear without sacrificing ride height? I too have an L4 and run front without spacers and rear with CRC lowered pods and #4 down but is there something else a guy can do to prevent traction rolling and tire chunking due to thick sidewalled tires?
Front-Lower Suspension Arm for Associated Dynamic Strut Suspension - Lowered 0.060 - Lower suspension arm for Associated dynamic strut suspension. Machined for more tire life.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/caster.html

Rear-Ride Height Adjusters - These improved ride height adjusters are designed to give more adjustability to the rear axle and be more stable under hard loading. There are 8 different ride height sets per package. The difference is .5mm between each height

http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:54 PM   #23847
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James I know Brian and I both set pod droop on our T-Bars. Even though you have the bar the pod still "wraps" under load. That wrap lifts the nose and limiting the shock can help or hinder the wrap.


You still coming up here in a couple weeks? The hotel called and we changed your room res.......
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:31 PM   #23848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
Has anybody had any experience with the X stock motor in 12th scale? I'm looking for a range of rollouts to try this weekend and I've never used this motor before (fairly large track 90' x 50').
ive been running the X for a while now. i start my rollout at around 1.70" or a 43.18mm for the X, which is a little higher than i gear my Co27. i think the X's have a little more torque than the Co27. i run CRC high rollers right out of the box, w/ a 100/33(?). great motor for 12th. run F's and reds on pos. and neg. it doesnt fade and has great straightaway speed.

-Zac
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:40 PM   #23849
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OD- what are you using to hold down the GTB's capacitor? and whats with the solder tab cover thingy? looks like all you need now is purple solder
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:37 PM   #23850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
OD- what are you using to hold down the GTB's capacitor? and whats with the solder tab cover thingy? looks like all you need now is purple solder
Shoe Goo. The solder tab cover is there because it looks cool (I suppose it could protect against shorts). Working on the purple solder
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