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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-16-2003, 07:05 PM   #2371
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Hey threeflys, hows the racing scene back in the 757. Im from Portsmouth
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Old 02-16-2003, 10:34 PM   #2372
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Quote:
Originally posted by sosidge
I've always been curious to know how well an r/c car would perform with a shaped and enclosed underbody, like a full size car (maybe a lexan moulding). Would tunnels and diffusers suck the car down noticeably, or would it just be a weighty gimmick? Shame that enclosed underbodies are banned.
I believe an enclosed body would reduce the amount of drag on a rc 1/12 car since with a normal 1/12 body air gets sucked into the inside from underneath before exiting from the back and this creates a lot of turbulance.

A diffuser would add downforce without much increase in drag as it smoothens the air flow to the back.

Also a proper wing would produce down force with less drag than a spoiler as the latter doesnt allow air to flow as smoothly to the back of the car to provide wake infill. Result will be a large area of low pressure and turbulance behind holding the car back. Just IMO.
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Old 02-17-2003, 08:36 AM   #2373
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Just a word about the new Protoform 1/12 body (Ascari?) at the Snowbirds. Several ran it including Desrosiers. They ran well with it. However, to slam the body down on the chassis they had to cut clearance for the center shock and then cut opennings in the rear to let the air pass through rather than over the lip of the rear. So, I don't really care for it due its aero and the idea of not covering the mechanical parts on the chassis. Asthetics do mean something and I hope ROAR takes a good look at this part.
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Old 02-17-2003, 11:13 AM   #2374
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I noticed i think it was either spashett's or cyrul's car from one of the pictures who had that body and his entire center shock was sticking out of the body, however when ran his ascari bodies at BBT he didnt have any holes in the body (he had tried cutting out the vents but didnt like how it handled), and it was SLAMMED, i think he had problems getting it low enough because the wires/plugs that went into his rx were too high up, lol (he had the blue airtronics rx layed flat on his chassis). Do you know if it will be ROAR legal for the nats in a few weeks? (i am going and wanted to run the ascari, but if its not ROAR legal and i cant get them it will be though, lol).
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Old 02-17-2003, 11:14 PM   #2375
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The new body looks sweet ! Since this is the 1/12 form does anybody know where I can get information on the Cleveland race? I have wanted to go yor years and years and the wife suggested that maybe I could go this year ( wonder what that is going to cost me ! ).Thanks
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Old 02-17-2003, 11:20 PM   #2376
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Quote:
Originally posted by Killer Bee 1
The new body looks sweet ! Since this is the 1/12 form does anybody know where I can get information on the Cleveland race? I have wanted to go yor years and years and the wife suggested that maybe I could go this year ( wonder what that is going to cost me ! ).Thanks
i'm sorry to inform you that the 2003 edition of the U.S. indoor championships, a.k.a. "Cleveland" has already been run, and you will probably be seeing race coverage in all popular magazines right about now.

but don't worry! it'll be back next year, and for many years to come i'm sure. you can check out info on the race at i believe www.ustriplecrown.com

(please correct me if i'm wrong)

peter
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Old 02-18-2003, 02:24 AM   #2377
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or try usindoorchamps.com
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Old 02-18-2003, 04:30 AM   #2378
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Trackdesigner: It goes well at Tidewater RC, Hampton. Cannot say much for hobby hell, where the carpet is held down with tape and cars sometimes go under the carpet or their lack of heat.
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:40 AM   #2379
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I believe that you're thinking of the 2002 race... the 2003 race will be in November 2003, still a ways off in the future.

T

Quote:
Originally posted by peter_robinson
i'm sorry to inform you that the 2003 edition of the U.S. indoor championships, a.k.a. "Cleveland" has already been run, and you will probably be seeing race coverage in all popular magazines right about now.

but don't worry! it'll be back next year, and for many years to come i'm sure. you can check out info on the race at i believe www.ustriplecrown.com

(please correct me if i'm wrong)

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Old 02-18-2003, 09:56 AM   #2380
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Trackdesigner,
Like Nitro said, all is well. Hampton speedway is noe Tidewater RC, Jim built a entirely new track in a new building. The track has a sweet oval and a good size road coarse for 12th scale, kinda small for 10th. The Hobbytown track is done kinda shotty (sp?) from what I hear, havn't seen it yet.
I was talking with Rusty at Stream yesterday, they are planning on making their offroad track bigger this spring. I might have to buy a truck!
Well, have a good one and try to stay off teh corner dots!
Chris
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Old 02-18-2003, 06:28 PM   #2381
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Default piston dampers or no piston dampers

I'm interested in having a discussion about the usefulness of side pistons (tube dampers) on 12th scale cars. IRS's prototype uses them, as does the Switchblade and Carpet Knife. AE and Yok don't. What do pistons do when used with a t-bar verus not having them, etc.
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Old 02-18-2003, 06:30 PM   #2382
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Can anyone tell me how the new Yok YRX12 w.e. works? My hobby shop has one, and has the 12l3s which is better excluding price?
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Old 02-18-2003, 07:35 PM   #2383
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hey guys im new to 1/12. im debating between the rc12l3, switchblade12, and carpet knife. excluding price what are the pros and cons of each. which one would u suggest i get thanks
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Old 02-18-2003, 07:53 PM   #2384
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You are going to run stock I assume? The trinity switchblade is the most competitive car out there right now IMO.
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:45 PM   #2385
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Default Re: piston dampers or no piston dampers

Quote:
Originally posted by coolrcdad
I'm interested in having a discussion about the usefulness of side pistons (tube dampers) on 12th scale cars. IRS's prototype uses them, as does the Switchblade and Carpet Knife. AE and Yok don't. What do pistons do when used with a t-bar verus not having them, etc.
What I've heard from a few folks is that the disc style dampeners provide the same dampening in all directions, side to side as well as front to back. By using the tube style dampeners, you allow for the tubes to control side dampening, and the shock controls front/rear dampening. Thus you could go to heavier side dampening with heavier syrup in the tubes without affecting the front/rear dampening.

That may be true, but in my opinion, the "real world" advantage to dampener tubes is more consistent dampening. I feel the car stays the same from one run to another better with dampener tubes than with the discs. The tubes seem to stay consistent for longer between cleaning/refilling than the discs do.

Just my $.02

T
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