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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-19-2007, 10:33 PM   #23821
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That is a fantastic job you have done with the wiring OD. Iwish mine looked like that.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:36 PM   #23822
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OD-You gotta show some pictures of the sweet wire cover you made.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:37 PM   #23823
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I know that my car is WAY over weight. But I would like to know what your cars weight, mainly looking for people with brushless because that is what i have. Mine is like 880g.

Thanks
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:47 PM   #23824
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Hi guys, Im new to 12th scale racing and im looking for some advice.
I own a Trinity Switchblade Spachette Edition 12th car and am wondering if I can use it or would I be screwed if i broke it.
Will say an 12L4 front suspension fit on the chassis? or should I just sell it and find a car with parts readily available?

Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:54 PM   #23825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
OD-You gotta show some pictures of the sweet wire cover you made.
I don't know why i like this silly thing so much, but it just tickles me pink
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Last edited by odpurple; 09-12-2008 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:59 PM   #23826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
That is a fantastic job you have done with the wiring OD. Iwish mine looked like that.
Practice, man! Practice, practice, practice
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:10 PM   #23827
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My MS2.3 with LRP/Neo weighs 865g or 30.4ou with a rx pack and Speed 12. With todays bat's, you are going to have a hard time getting down to that sleek 28ou of the old days. For what it's worth, my stocker weighs 28.6ou.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:10 PM   #23828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
What different T-plates do they make for the CEFX? Any part numbers would be cool as I can start getting my parts list ready to place an order in a week or two. Anyone run the spring steel type t-plates like many of my buddies do on oval? Not sure if they are good for 1/12th or not.
www.cefxraceway.net, the new C-12 has the ability to use 4 t-bars. the CEFX long, med (kit), short, and of course the standard AE 1/12 sized t-bars. the CEFX med and short t-bars are smaller the the AE. don't know if the CEFX long is the same or longer than the AE? or if it is the same lenght but with the rear pivot ball mount farther back?

i asked CEFX about it awhile back when i noticed the t-bar was smaller and the rear pivot is moved farther back than a standard AE t-bar.

The C12 rear pod is much longer than an AE pod to allow for a larger range of gear selections. With the pivot moved back, this gets the geometry back correct so we have the shorter pod geometry.

We have the other holes so you can use AE t-bars or the CEFX short, med,
long. The kit now comes with the medium. The longer t-bar reacts slower and
is easier to drive but lacks steering and a quick change of direction. It is
very good on high speed, flowing tracks or ones that are really bumpy. The
medium has a similar feel to driving an AE car. The short is really quick
and almost twitchy to drive. It was intended for asphalt racing where
sometimes you need to run a very short t-bar to generate enough steering and quick responce on a slippery surface.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:13 PM   #23829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
My MS2.3 with LRP/Neo weighs 865g or 30.4ou with a rx pack and Speed 12. With todays bat's, you are going to have a hard time getting down to that sleek 28ou of the old days. For what it's worth, my stocker weighs 28.6ou.
I had to add 1/4 ounce to my car at the birds...even with the big Futaba HRS receiver!! But most have a hard time coming close the the 28 ounce limit!

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Old 02-19-2007, 11:15 PM   #23830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJa
I know that my car is WAY over weight. But I would like to know what your cars weight, mainly looking for people with brushless because that is what i have. Mine is like 880g.

Thanks
My brushless car weighs 851 grams with 4300 and Speed 8 HD. My brushed car weighs 830 grams with KD 19t and HD
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:21 PM   #23831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
My brushless car weighs 851 grams with 4300 and Speed 8 HD. My brushed car weighs 830 grams with KD 19t and HD

Thanks again... you have been great with the info....
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:26 PM   #23832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrit1
Hi guys, Im new to 12th scale racing and im looking for some advice.
I own a Trinity Switchblade Spachette Edition 12th car and am wondering if I can use it or would I be screwed if i broke it.
Will say an 12L4 front suspension fit on the chassis? or should I just sell it and find a car with parts readily available?

Thanks.
I have that same car and I can say that it is still capable of turning some pretty fast laps. For club level racing it would do very well. Luckily I got it with a whole box full of parts and could easily rebuild the car twice minus the main chassis.

I would give Trinity a call and see if they can find any extra parts laying around. If you can get some great. If not, run it until it breaks.

By the way, I have only managed to break one part this year, a lower control arm. I can honestly say that it was as hard of a hit that a stock motor can dish out. Full speed over a corner dot into a concrete wall.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:54 AM   #23833
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Do you guy's run the gurnie flap on the bodies?

Does it make a difference and if so what.

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:05 AM   #23834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
My brushless car weighs 851 grams with 4300 and Speed 8 HD. My brushed car weighs 830 grams with KD 19t and HD

Mine is 773 grams with 42's and a Komodo. with personal trans too. Its a Rev 4.5
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:15 AM   #23835
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What I liked at 'Birds was the 29ou min. weight they inforced. For some reason, they didn't follow Roar's 28ou limit. It must be they realise that it's going to be very difficult to get a car to that limit, so why bother. I was pleasantly surprised that I had to add a 1/4ou. to my stocker, too.

I have used the gurney flap on a 12B and on a CRC LMP. It sticks the rear down more and takes away corner entry steering (if you need that). The Speed 8 & 12 have proper balance, so it's not really needed. The 8HD is screwed to the ground even more.


773g! Did you weigh it with the body too?
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