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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-19-2007, 06:22 AM   #23791
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thanks for the feedback on the tires jason, here's what i'm running at the present time.

12L3
-35wt in rear shock with red crc spring
-2 spring steel t-bars (using these until i'm consistent enough to stay off the boards and stop breaking t-plates )
-crc lowered pod
-no fluid on damper plates, there us some teflon on each side of the upper pod plate between the damper plates
-i've run everything from jaco white and grey rears and crc white and pink rears
-.020 springs up front, associated front end with 10* caster blocks and both spacers behind arms
-purple front tires
-ib4200's in 19turn with a dynasty

thanks jason!!!
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:30 AM   #23792
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try the .075 fiberglass T bar with the center screw out.put 5000 wt 1/8th scale diff oil on the king pins and also 7000 wt diff oil on the washers.run your rear tires at 1.800 and your fronts at 1.700 and use the double pink front jaco wraps with yellow rear wraps.i like the wraps better than the high rollers and standard tires.run 3.5mm ride height front and rear.this should help alot.no rear damping sounds like what is making your car push.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:56 PM   #23793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Here is what I ran at the Birds.

.20 front springs with .010-.015 of sag when sitting on the table ready to run minus the body.
10 degree front caster blocks with all the shims forward.
2 degrees camber left and right front.
.063 Tplate with no center screw. 30 wt center shock oil with olive center springs.
15K kyosho diff lube in damp tubes.
Jaco Dbl pink wrap fronts, Yellow wrap rears.
Protoform Speed 12B body.


EA
Who makes the Olive center springs you used on your setup? Remember I no nothing about 1/12th scales so this is a total adventure for me. How does the CEFX body Johs has out run compared to the Protoform Speed 12B?
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:13 PM   #23794
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Default Novak GTB 4-cell ESC pictures installed?

Novak GTB 4-cell ESC pictures installed?

Anybody installed one yet in a 1/12th car? The external capacitor is half the size of the ESC...

I'd love to see a few installations. (and where to mount the attached "garbage can")

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Old 02-19-2007, 05:45 PM   #23795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Who makes the Olive center springs you used on your setup? Remember I no nothing about 1/12th scales so this is a total adventure for me. How does the CEFX body Johs has out run compared to the Protoform Speed 12B?
Its just the standard spring that comes with the associated center spring. It (6lbs) or a silver (8lb) will be about all you ever need with a Tplate car. Never ran any of Josh's bodies....So I dont know. He usually runs Protoforms or Parmas...so I would stick with one of those...LOL

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Old 02-19-2007, 05:51 PM   #23796
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What is a good size to true tires down to for club racing?
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:56 PM   #23797
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..
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:56 PM   #23798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AChupp2
What is a good size to true tires down to for club racing?
if you run crc high rollers you dont have to just run them out of the box.
but 48rear 46 front.
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:58 PM   #23799
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1.8" and 1.85" for High Rollers.

1.71" and 1.75" for regulars.

Fronts are the smaller, rears are the larger.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:01 PM   #23800
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come to the metric side come come its not so bad.
the rest of the world is come come
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:03 PM   #23801
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For super high bite tracks as the snowbirds I ran 1 set of wraps in every qual and the main. 1.62 fronts and 1.70 rears. But thats not needed for club racing. The sizes JohnnyCarey posted is where I start for club racing.

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Old 02-19-2007, 06:28 PM   #23802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
For super high bite tracks as the snowbirds I ran 1 set of wraps in every qual and the main. 1.62 fronts and 1.70 rears. But thats not needed for club racing. The sizes JohnnyCarey posted is where I start for club racing.

EA
How much racing foam is left on a 1/12 from wrap at 1.62? I usually take them off and start chuckin' them at people when mine hit just under 1.65

I do run on asphalt though...you cant make an 8 min run in 19T1/12 if you start with a 1.65 tire on asphalt.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:58 PM   #23803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
How much racing foam is left on a 1/12 from wrap at 1.62? I usually take them off and start chuckin' them at people when mine hit just under 1.65

I do run on asphalt though...you cant make an 8 min run in 19T1/12 if you start with a 1.65 tire on asphalt.
My tires are at 1.605 fronts after running them in 4 quals and the main at the birds. Ive ran wraps down th 1.58 before....but thats about the limit.

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Old 02-19-2007, 07:02 PM   #23804
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Ok...just a noob question...what the heck are wraps? I've been a bit out of the loop with pan cars until recently and haven't seen this term before.
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:27 PM   #23805
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Its a harder inner foam below the 'racing' foam. That makes the tires have less flex due to less sidewall and the harder foam.
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