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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-17-2007, 07:36 PM   #23731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadbeast
CRC red and Assoc red seem to be the same, as does the copper. The stiff silver springs from CRC look and feel different (and stiffer) than anything from Associated.
most of the guys at mlt are using the copper spring.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:51 PM   #23732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
this is not true
paragon is bad for you
In order for paragon to hurt you you would have to absorb or consume massive amounts (Gallons) per day for X amount of years to be hazerdous. Search for it on the internet. One of Associateds Factory drivers is a chemist or something and done the break down of the chemicals in it. He has the FACTS...not just hearsay. But some guys do have bad reactions to it but its because they are allergic to something in it....Not just because its paragon.

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Old 02-17-2007, 07:56 PM   #23733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
In order for paragon to hurt you you would have to absorb or consume massive amounts (Gallons) per day for X amount of years to be hazerdous. Search for it on the internet. One of Associateds Factory drivers is a chemist or something and done the break down of the chemicals in it. He has the FACTS...not just hearsay. But some guys do have bad reactions to it but its because they are allergic to something in it....Not just because its paragon.

EA
yes this is true.
now wintergreen like in the old days oh man i got totaly high with this stuff and i was a long haired kid (need i say more)and i still got high on it.
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:04 PM   #23734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJa
i asked a while back about roll-out with a 4300 with a sintered rotor.... and got a great answer..... now we have a big race coming up next weekend and I am going to be running stock and 19t.... and I would like to know about what to roll-out at with a 13.5 sintered rotor ? what is the high side ? I am at 54mm on my 4300..... just wondering where the 13.5 would be.... hope i can get a big enough gear on it.....

Thanks
The sintered 13.5 has more torque and less rpm than the 4300(10.5). First of all start out with an 88T spur. Bevel the top back edge of your t-bar at a 45* angle. Figure out the biggest gear that fits and start out 2 teeth less than that....i'm not kidding.

I think it might be worth testing the 13.5 with the stock bonded magnet for 4 cell 1/12th racing. It may be better in this application than the sintered rotor. The bonded rotor will have more rpm and will let you run a more sane gear ratio.

Outdoors we are going to need spur gears smaller than 88t to make proper use of the 13.5 with a sintered rotor.
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:12 PM   #23735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
paragon makes for good traction and makes you a hit with the ladies at the local bingo hall.splash on some paragon with a hint of old spice and they wont be able to keep there mits off you.
You like them mature and a generation older?!?
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:29 PM   #23736
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CRC buys their springs from Associated (AE). The diffrence is you get a pair of springs for $2 from AE and only one spring for $2 from CRC.
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:36 PM   #23737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
You like them mature and a generation older?!?
older the grape,the sweeter the juice
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:42 PM   #23738
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I just got my new BMI DB12R together...wow. Jason (protc3) did some amazing work on this car. Except for the screws, center shock and front suspension BMI machined every part. The pivot balls, pivot balls housings, flex plates, pod plates, threaded steel front axles, custom damper tubes and of course all the carbon chassis plates are all custom BMI pieces.

I talked to Jason today and he explained how his damper tubes use a smaller o.d. piston so you can use thicker damping fluid and end up with lighter damping. Instead of running 100wt oil and having it run out of the tubes over time you can run 5000wt and it feels the same and stays put.

The flex plate pivots have a big setscrew in them that presses on a delrin cup on top of the pivot ball to allow you to adjust the pivots so they are super free but have zero slop.

The kit comes with threaded from axles, IRS alloy pivot balls for the front suspension, IRS upper hinge pins, steel threaded front axles and an IRS rear axle kit. Most of this is stuff you buy after you get a kit to improve you car.

How about this...I needed to add lead to make it legal weight! With a light Parma Speed 8, Spektrum Micro Rx, IB4200, EA Komodo, Airtronics 94761 servo and Keyence speedo I needed top add 7g to make weight with a safe margin of error. All I added was an alloy screw kit in the low stress areas.

Like I said...wow
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Last edited by AdrianM; 02-17-2007 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:22 PM   #23739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
older the grape,the sweeter the juice
all I can say is - eeewwwww!
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:35 PM   #23740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The sintered 13.5 has more torque and less rpm than the 4300(10.5). First of all start out with an 88T spur. Bevel the top back edge of your t-bar at a 45* angle. Figure out the biggest gear that fits and start out 2 teeth less than that....i'm not kidding.

I think it might be worth testing the 13.5 with the stock bonded magnet for 4 cell 1/12th racing. It may be better in this application than the sintered rotor. The bonded rotor will have more rpm and will let you run a more sane gear ratio.

Outdoors we are going to need spur gears smaller than 88t to make proper use of the 13.5 with a sintered rotor.
Not kidding indeed. I ran 63mm rollout today on our 95x48 foot carpet track and the car was slow, the motor only got warm. My team mate ran something like 71mm in the main without a problem. He did this with a 78 tooth spur (yes 78) and 39t pinion. It seemed to lose a little in the infield but was quite nice on the long straight and sweeper.
We've run the bonded rotor some with lower rollouts but it seems to fade a little and feels like a flat battery pack.
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Last edited by odpurple; 02-17-2007 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:53 PM   #23741
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78/39 thats a 2:1 FDR!

I guess I need to get on the horn with RW Racing and get some 78T spurs on the way over here.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:54 PM   #23742
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odpurple......you said

We've run the bonded rotor some with lower rollouts but it seems to fade a little and feels like a flat battery pack. ??

so does this mean you are running the sintered now ??


also.. where did he find a 78 spur ? and does it fit with the big diff rings ??

I think the biggest pinion i can get with my 88spur is 37..... and with 46mm tires that would give me a 60.7mm roll-out...sounds like i need to get on it, and find me a 78 spur and i am going to need to up my pinions... with 36 the biggest i have now.... wow.... that is a lot of gear...

Thanks again for the help !!
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Old 02-17-2007, 11:30 PM   #23743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
78/39 thats a 2:1 FDR!
That's what I said! Honestly, I think he was over geared, it might be more driveable with at lower ro, but I didn't try it myself.
But outdoors?
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Old 02-17-2007, 11:46 PM   #23744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJa
odpurple......you said

We've run the bonded rotor some with lower rollouts but it seems to fade a little and feels like a flat battery pack. ??

so does this mean you are running the sintered now ??


also.. where did he find a 78 spur ? and does it fit with the big diff rings ??

I think the biggest pinion i can get with my 88spur is 37..... and with 46mm tires that would give me a 60.7mm roll-out...sounds like i need to get on it, and find me a 78 spur and i am going to need to up my pinions... with 36 the biggest i have now.... wow.... that is a lot of gear...

Thanks again for the help !!
We're using the sintered rotor.
The spur is a Robinson 78t. They use big diff rings, the drawback is that they can only accomodate eight balls. Not ideal, but usable.
I'm not sure about the RW gears that Adrian mentioned, maybe they have 12 holes?
The largest pinion you can fit depends on your car. I can get a 41 on my OD12 with an 88t spur, you should be able to get close to that on any t bar car. As Adrian mentioned, beveling the t bar will allow you to use a larger pinion.
Don't get carried away yet, this was just from today's race, I'm not sure that huge rollouts like that are what's right, but it is looking that way.
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Last edited by odpurple; 02-18-2007 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 02-18-2007, 06:56 AM   #23745
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thanks again for all the help...
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