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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-13-2003, 05:11 PM   #2356
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Default tires

anyone using the CRC dish wheels?... any good?
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:15 PM   #2357
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paperboy- not really, however currently in rc it doesnt exactly work like full scale racing in that sense. espically in 12th scale its basically been that some bodies are just faster than others. however the way you mount a body and that stuff can make a difference, you want to lower the body as much as possible, and to have the smallest gap between the body and racing surface posssibly without rubbing as to seal the body.

since rc bodies dont have aerofoils (wings, even sedan wings arent wings, they are strips of plastic, they do have have a aerofoil shape to them, and they are going really too slow to really be able to use one if someone made a real wing) downforce is created by making a vacuum, and having the air over the body go slower than the air going under the car. so the less air going under the body the better, and the less of the body that is in the air the better (less drag). so always try to mount the body as low as possible!
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:18 PM   #2358
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mkennedy- the crc wheels are jaco tires on their (i think its theirs) dish rim, i have yet to run them personally, however i have heard from fellow racers who know what they are doing that they are mor durable than the grey jaco rims, however they weight more. I am personally switching to TRC rims (as ugly as they are) because i have had alot of quality control problems with Jaco tires (the tires coming off, the glue in the center of the tire coming off and i am having a gap in the center of my tire) also the TRC wheels allow for some adjustment in the front wheels, since they are narrower (so you can adjust front width basically).
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:23 PM   #2359
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stormperson-thanks for the info!
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:35 PM   #2360
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Stormperson....I kinda disagree with some of what you are saying about aero effects on RC cars. For Sedans for example get your car all set up and take your wing off and watch what your car does....the wing on the back is doing something even at slow speeds. Now with a 12th scale you could mount an external wing like say the sports cars of the 70's ran and that would plant the back of the car even more.....but the rules are that you cant have external wings you cant even put a gurney flap on a 12th scale.....you should try that at a club race and see how much more your car is stuck. And when you mount the body so low on the car that you cut the lip off the front of the body thats not very good also as that lip will create a pressure area and give you steering so mounting a body as low as you can is not always good.
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Old 02-13-2003, 06:08 PM   #2361
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Another thing, should I cut the rear end off the body completely? I have about 3 mm all the way around the rear end for strength, but will it make a huge difference if I cut that off?

I know you usually cut the back right out to stop the back end lifting.

Thanks
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Old 02-13-2003, 06:17 PM   #2362
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kevin- i completely agree with you, sorry i didnt make that clear. yes rc "wings" do make a difference in handling and add downforce to the rear, however they are not wings by definition.

as far as cutting off the "lip" i personally cut my sedan bodies so i have a small splitter infront of the car (basically there where the lip is i cut it off so that i have a small 1 or 2mm horizontol peice of lexan that goes out perpendicular to the ground in order to add some more front downforce, although i doubt if it even makes a difference in mod. the most important thing (besides making sure nothing rubs, since thats the worst thing to happen by far) is that that body creates a good vacuum and also that it has the smallest profile possible, so it has less drag. however i dont think there is a lip on 12th scale bodies, the parma i cut so there is barely any of the lower part of the body (that it straight veritcal in the front) left, any lower the front tires hit the inside top of the wheel well.

on 12th scale i generally cut out everything in the back except 2-4 mm or so around the top and then leave around an inch on the sides where there is that "bar" or whatever on the sides, i if i get a chance i will post a picture.
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Old 02-13-2003, 06:45 PM   #2363
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Ok I see what you mean now. Another good thing to do is to try to get the air out from under the car cleanly.....if you could use a difuser that would be awsome.....but we cant...to bad. But what I do is flare out the back half of the body that seems to help too so it looks like this \_/ the top of that being the back of the body. Yeah I dont remember if the Parma had a lip/splitter on the front but the Proto speed 8 had one.
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Old 02-14-2003, 04:29 AM   #2364
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I've always been curious to know how well an r/c car would perform with a shaped and enclosed underbody, like a full size car (maybe a lexan moulding). Would tunnels and diffusers suck the car down noticeably, or would it just be a weighty gimmick? Shame that enclosed underbodies are banned.
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Old 02-14-2003, 01:22 PM   #2365
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Default DU-Mor r/c - don't bother

Unprofesional Company and personnel.

Phone staff were very rude and developed an attitude when confronted with questions about product availability.

Products not available for 2 MONTHS and I was told that that have NO IDEA when this will be available.

They claim to make the parts at that location. I guess that servicing the RC industry is not their concern.

Its too bad that a company with a good product cannot deliver and doesn't really seem to want to operate in this industry.
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Old 02-14-2003, 03:43 PM   #2366
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Default Yokomo YRX12WE

Anyone else currently using this car? I'll be running one at the upcoming ROAR Nats and have only a couple of nights on it so far. Very smooth and well made, but pretty much cookie cutter 12L3 IMO. First observation, chassis is too thin and prone to tweak.

If you happen to run one on high-traction ozite and have converted it to the CRC side-dampeners, let's talk.

Greg Amendola
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Old 02-14-2003, 04:42 PM   #2367
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Yokomo also has a 4 cell chassis conversion (part#RC-12Y) for your RC12L3 that makes it look like a YRX12WE.

Here is a link to a picture of the new PROTOform Ascari 1/12th scale body, Link to body
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Old 02-14-2003, 04:42 PM   #2368
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Greg....if you look a few pages back some of the guys from Cali were talking about the car and how the chassis too thin on high bite carpet. They said something about a thicker chassis dont know if its out from Yokomo or a custom part. I dont think the dampening tubes will help with a chassis thats too thin IMHO. There is no getting around that.....trust me I had that problem for years with my old Schumacher cars and thats why most of the 1/12cars that are raced here are atleast 100 thou thick.
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Last edited by Kevin K; 02-14-2003 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 02-14-2003, 05:16 PM   #2369
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That Ascari body is sweeeeeeet, but it looks like something's missing because of no cockpit lol.
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Old 02-15-2003, 07:49 AM   #2370
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"I've always been curious to know how well an r/c car would perform with a shaped and enclosed underbody, like a full size car (maybe a lexan moulding). Would tunnels and diffusers suck the car down noticeably, or would it just be a weighty gimmick? Shame that enclosed underbodies are banned."


Back in the early 90s when I was racing oval, there was a company that made a Lumana body that came with a molded underbody. The underbody had openings in the front and back to channel air, it used double sided tape to attach.

I never really used mine and probaly wasn't good enough to notice a difference anyway! I believe Dahms made itm but I'm not sure.
Chris
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