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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-02-2007, 02:14 PM   #23536
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Well closest to vintage car I have to contribute to the conversation is a DA Graphite 12L chassis that has a balsa wood core and carved battery slots instead of cut out, beautiful chassis. Oh and I have the old HPI lower pod plate with the kick up...wish they made that again for the newer cars.
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Old 02-02-2007, 02:56 PM   #23537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
nice paint job Bob, what happened now? all white?! lol
Randon won concourse, me, outta time. Have some killer bodys ready for Regina though.

When you see us with good paint, it means we had a slow week.
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looking for....vintage 1/10-1/12 pan, need Schumacher 1/12th cars and parts.
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Old 02-02-2007, 02:59 PM   #23538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clinehobbies
I still have one. I dug it out and took a picture. I have a new fiberglass version around here some where. Gotta love the fuel line tweek adjustment on the flex plate er t-bar
Cline you have a bunch of nice stuff, care to part with the Parma 1/10th car?
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looking for....vintage 1/10-1/12 pan, need Schumacher 1/12th cars and parts.
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:40 PM   #23539
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does anybody no if there is a delta p12 spyder for sale anywere thanks!!!! oldschool valleyraceway@aol.com
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:39 PM   #23540
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I've got a Spyder around here somewhere. Mine has the three shock rear end, but it doesn't have the monoshock front end, it's got the aluminum beam front end like the Phaser had.

If you're interested, I can start looking for it, I know it's here in the house somewhere. If you're interested, let me know, I'll try and find it and post a picture or two... As I recall it's in slightly rough shape but not too bad considering its age.
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:41 AM   #23541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
plate is made by BK Electronics in Germany
http://www.finedesignrc.com/ is the U.S. distributor.
Is that a special order part? I looked on the website, and they do carry BK Electronics parts, but not that adapter plate.
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:19 AM   #23542
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Dont know if anyone noticed, but the lower pod plate on the hotbodies is aluminum also
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:39 PM   #23543
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Hi All

I have just finished my review and building tips for the new Prostrut Front End from CRC.

This is posted at the normal place: http://www.12thrc.com

There are a few bugs with it as it is a bit of a monster article. See what you think and feel free to comment.

Mark
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:22 PM   #23544
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i have a corally,i has cutouts for six cells.i was thinking of tossing it out its old,but then i was thinking about putting 10 cells maybe 8 i dunno??is that retarded,or would that be worth it to make something crazy fast?how fast would it go?how should i set it up to go fast on the street,i got an old novak esc to put in it,and i think i can use ten cells in it.what pinion and spur should i get?
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:54 PM   #23545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intimidator
i was thinking about putting 10 cells maybe 8 i dunno??is that retarded?
Yes...
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:02 PM   #23546
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that's just mean

besides, maybe he doesn't want to race, just set the 1/12th land speed record
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:57 AM   #23547
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that is pretty insane.1/12th is fast in 4 cell.i couldnt imagine that many cells.HOLD ON!!
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Old 02-04-2007, 11:54 AM   #23548
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Wow who ever gets any of the new BMI 1/12th scale cars is going to be a very lucky bastard!! I just got back from his shop and watched Jason spend hours just building and blueprinting the front ends. Man he pays so much attention to detail to each part that he puts together, its amazing!! This is going to be one of the best cars that ive seen put together .I dont think that he is charging enough for these kits!
Cant wait to see these cars running at the birds!
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:10 PM   #23549
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What tyres are most people running on asphalt(sp?) ive heard that a lot use Purple fronts and pink rears with a thin t-bar.Do you tend to run bigger tires or still cut them down like, say, on carpet?
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:12 PM   #23550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
What tyres are most people running on asphalt(sp?) ive heard that a lot use Purple fronts and pink rears with a thin t-bar.Do you tend to run bigger tires or still cut them down like, say, on carpet?
dbl pinks wraps front and rear

here is a good setup from Jason
Rear:
.063 T plate
olive spring w/ 25 wt oil
4mm ride height
1.800 tires double pink wraps(TRC)
1.5mm up travel for the pod droop
5000 wt. 1/8 diff oil on washers.make sure you rub the washers real good onto the top plate to create a nice seal.
batteries as far back as they go and run the rear track width at about 168mm

Front:
10 degree castor blocks shimmed to center
.020 front springs / 5000wt. diff oil on the king pins
1.5 degree camber
3.75 mm ride height
no droop
double pink wraps cut to 1.725(TRC)
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