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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-13-2003, 02:13 AM   #2341
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I'm just getting started in 12th scale. I have a question about bodies, what body have most of you had the most luck with? What are characteristics of some of the popular bodies? Thanks.

-Leon
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Old 02-13-2003, 04:58 AM   #2342
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I profer the Parma speed 8 , it has good steering and can be mounted really low , the Proline P35 is a good choice also ,but it mounts a little higher and has a larger canopy. The Yokomo is similar to the P35 with a more angled rear spoiler and the rounded front corners seem to skip off the boards better if you run a tight line and clip boards.
just my .02 cents
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:03 AM   #2343
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the parma speed 8 is the fastest body hands down by far. there is a reason that all of the pro-line/protoform factory drivers even use it instead of a body out of their own stable. although the new protoform ascari body should be even better, it has a hint more steering, and is even lower (i mounted on on my car and had to rearrage my electronics and everything, the thing has dimples in the body for the 3 screws that hold the graphite plate onto the motor bulkheads!)

however dont wait for it, 12th scale bodies since they are light weight dont last very long, one really good hit can ruin them. the heavyweight bodies dont actually last any longer, but crack instead.
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:20 AM   #2344
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Hey Storm,
Is that Ascari body available yet .........part # ? or is it still in prototype?
thanks Bob
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:31 AM   #2345
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Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
I kinda would like to see stuff like the C5R, the Saleen, the Mosler M900R, the Lister Storm, the Dodge Viper, etc. made for the 1/10 pans and the open cockpit LMP style bodies (much like the Ascari) like the Lucchini, the Audi, the BMW V12, the Panoz, etc for the 1/12. Thoughts?
Yes! But why split 1/10th pan from 1/12th pan?

We're racing r/c cars, not r/c wings. People get turned on to the cars by the way they look (hence the popularity of touring cars nowadays, instead of buggies).

I'd much rather race a car that looks like a current racer, than something which grips a bit better, but looks like a wedge (Parma Speed 8 for example). That's why you need rules, to stop the blatantly imaginary shells from being raced.

Until the Bentleys got released, the current 1/12 cars looked like Group C or toj cars that haven't been raced for over 10 years.

I'd like to see seperate wings like the current Le Mans cars run as well.

And the 1/8th scale guys should take heed too...
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:36 AM   #2346
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I don't care what the bodies look like , if one has more "grip" than another then i will run that............ lower lap times are what I'm looking for, if I could get a touring car to turn like my 1/12th , I'd be a happy camper................... Bob
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:38 AM   #2347
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I've run the Protoform speed 8 and it sucks. I only had it 2 weeks before it started to crack. It has 2 seems down the front wheel well that split very easily. I'd definatly go with the Parma speed 8 next time.
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:03 AM   #2348
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sosidge: I agree on the looks of the bodies. I personally think the touring cars are butt ugly!!!!!!!! I am an ex full scale racer that raced camaro Z28's and corvettes. A honda civic is not my idea of a fast car. The Saleen M7 is. I would love to run this body. Did on my nitro till I got better, and then has to switch to TC body.

On the 1/12 I would love to run the newer panoz or BMW body. Ran the LMR body on my Super Nitro. Agree with you on the wedge look of the parma.

I have had the reverse luck with the protoform and parma. Parma split quick and proto has lasted longer. But as noted most do not last long at all. If I was a front runner, it might be different. But alas my skills are not that good. But I do have fun racing! and that is what matters.
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:26 AM   #2349
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Does anybody have a picture of the Protoform Ascari?

Heres a pic-of the real one: Ascari body
Kraig-Thanks-I went back and found it-Sorry-I almost never read this thread anymore!!!

Last edited by rayhuang; 02-13-2003 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:32 AM   #2350
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Bobby Z posted one on 2-6-03.

If any of you are looking for the TRC Cyan or TRC Granite tires for your 1/12th scale they are now in stock.

The Parma Speed 8 bodies are in stock as well.

Just thought I would share the information.

Thanks
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:47 AM   #2351
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How does the Protoform P-35 compair to the Parma Speed 8 in terms of rear downforce? I run the Parma at the moment but I might try the P-35.
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Old 02-13-2003, 11:51 AM   #2352
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Also on the tire front are T.M. Cyan front and Gray rears and they also make a Granite Rear with a little wider outside ring to it for the stock racers on high bite surfaces. Of course the standard Purple front is also available. Stock is plentiful and you can order online if you like at this link.
www.tm-rc-racingcomponents.com
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Old 02-13-2003, 03:05 PM   #2353
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the ascari body should hopefully be out in the next few weeks, i think they were waitin until after the birds to finalize the molds and everything. i am just hoping i get to run one for a week or two before the nats.

scard- 12th scale bodies rarely last more than a few weeks. i normally paint up a new body if mine has bad wheel well cracks or any real damage, since it can chunk tires and it doesnt handle as well. the protoform bently isnt anything special, the parma speed 8 is a much much much better body.

and also one thing i want to point out, dont think that just because they have the same name, like dodge stratus or speed 8 they are the same, because they arent, the differences are huge. a HPI stratus handles differnetly than a Protoform or Yokomo one, so dont think just because its a stratus it has to handle well, same with 12th scale bodies, the protoform and parma bodies of the speed 8 couldnt be more different, so dont just think because its a speed 8 its okay.

the trend with 12th scale bodies has been:
-lowest possible profile
-highest downforce (both front and rear)

the parma speed 8 had alot more grip and handled much better than the p-35, and the new ascari has more steering (and also a larger rear wing area, so more overall downforce) and a lower profile than the speed 8.
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Old 02-13-2003, 04:55 PM   #2354
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I was just thinking, is it possible to have lower drag with high downforce? Or do you have to find a medium between the two?
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:10 PM   #2355
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Quote:
Originally posted by sosidge
Yes! But why split 1/10th pan from 1/12th pan?

We're racing r/c cars, not r/c wings. People get turned on to the cars by the way they look (hence the popularity of touring cars nowadays, instead of buggies).

I'd much rather race a car that looks like a current racer, than something which grips a bit better, but looks like a wedge (Parma Speed 8 for example). That's why you need rules, to stop the blatantly imaginary shells from being raced.

Until the Bentleys got released, the current 1/12 cars looked like Group C or toj cars that haven't been raced for over 10 years.

I'd like to see seperate wings like the current Le Mans cars run as well.

And the 1/8th scale guys should take heed too...

For me, Thats why I used race cars that are actually currently raced today, Like the Lister Storm and the Dodge Viper (from the FIA GT series), the Lucchini, the Courage, the Lola and the Dome (from the FIA Sportscar Championship), The Mosler M900R (from the Grand American Road Racing Series), and the Corvette C5R, the Saleen S7R, the Audi R8, and the Panoz LMP-01 (from the American LeMans Series). I would like to see RC body manufacturers get with the times for pan cars.


Just my $.02
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