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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-01-2007, 01:03 AM   #23521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva
Why oh why can't someone make a body like those old ones anymore. I know they may not be as fast as the new ones. But I'm usually in the back of the pack anyways. At least I'd look kewl....
I agree...2 of my favorites were for 1/10th pan and I don't remember them in 1/12th but I would have loved them there...not so old but old enough...the Andy's Porsche 962(956) and the Pro-Line Bud Lite Jaguar. Beautifully modeled scale looking bodies that worked pretty darn well.

I picked up an old Tamiya 1/12th Porsche 956 off e-bay and a Frewer Porsche 956 body which was from what I hear a back pour of the Tamiya. Those were some really nice 1/12th bodies but doesn't quite fit today's 1/12th dimensions.
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:51 PM   #23522
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Look what I found on the 2nd page.
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:25 PM   #23523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clinehobbies
More vintage cars

I had the 10th scale version of that Parma back in 89??? Used a Team Losi Brutus 16X3 mod motor and a 7 cell Nicad pack with a novak speedo...it was pretty quick
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:25 PM   #23524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinian
I had the 10th scale version of that Parma back in 89??? Used a Team Losi Brutus 16X3 mod motor and a 7 cell Nicad pack with a novak speedo...it was pretty quick
I still have one. I dug it out and took a picture. I have a new fiberglass version around here some where. Gotta love the fuel line tweek adjustment on the flex plate er t-bar
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Last edited by clinehobbies; 02-02-2007 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 02-02-2007, 12:27 AM   #23525
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Holly cow... is that rust??? that kind of photo shop technology does not exist in the 21st century. I bow out, we have a winner.

Bob, you must have something from the cold war erra.
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:24 AM   #23526
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Default HPI 1/12th scale Prototype

HPI/Hot Bodies have shown their new 1/12th scale prototype at the Nürnberg toy fair in Germany. The car itself looks very like the current Associated 12th scale chassis.

Check it out here.
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:39 AM   #23527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRC
HPI/Hot Bodies have shown their new 1/12th scale prototype at the Nürnberg toy fair in Germany. The car itself looks very like the current Associated 12th scale chassis.

Check it out here.

only thing that looks "new" are the left and right pod plates. c'mon HB, you have a world champion car and a ton of monster trucks; but a little R&D into a 12th instead of just copy/pasting the 12l4 in purple
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:28 AM   #23528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Yeah, like Jim said, we see Ken all the time. We were all in the same club back when. We are putting together a mod race in a couple weeks and I know he'll be there for that.
BTW, I'm tellin him you called him "obscure"


Odpurple
can I come out and run with you guys at the mod race I can bring my old Delta or mrp to come play. I would love to see the old gang of drivers that used to run in San Jose or was that Hamilton not sure I always had to drive 3 hrs to run with with you guys. If Ken Jones makes it I would love to see if he might have a 1/10 Lotec body around. give me the dates I need 3 days to drive there from Texas


Tim C
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:41 AM   #23529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
Euro-Panther or Pro-panther. The one and only time I tried to get my wife to race was with that Parma car in early 1988. She was pregnant at the time with our first born son, (now nearly 18 years old and racing with the old man), and the smell's of the tire sauces made her sick and she didn't actually race the car. She spent the weekend barfing in our hotel room. **Ah, the good times.**

Guess which car was hers.
nice paint job Bob, what happened now? all white?! lol
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:34 AM   #23530
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That is a nice link to the old 12s. Since I'm a total computor idiot I will try to get someone to take pictures of my small collection. I still have the oval cars from the early 80's. No kit, just made out of old parts, Delta, asso etc. We ran 6 cell stock motors against 4 cell mod in oval. The stock 6 cell whooped up on em bad!
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:37 AM   #23531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpczx6
Odpurple
can I come out and run with you guys at the mod race I can bring my old Delta or mrp to come play. I would love to see the old gang of drivers that used to run in San Jose or was that Hamilton not sure I always had to drive 3 hrs to run with with you guys. If Ken Jones makes it I would love to see if he might have a 1/10 Lotec body around. give me the dates I need 3 days to drive there from Texas


Tim C
Hey Tim,
It would be great to see you come out here. We could almost have a CAR reunion. The tentative date for the mod race I was talking about is February 10, but that's not definate yet. There's not a lot of interest in mod class (lots of new 1/12th racers) so we have to schedule it when the hard core guys can come out. That won't be the only mod race though so I'll let you know.
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Old 02-02-2007, 12:16 PM   #23532
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Brian,
The mamba 25 is spec'ed for 2-3 cell lipo, not 1. There is no low voltage cutoff that you can set for one cell. You can always turn off the LVC, and hope you don't get too discharged.
You may as well just use a 2cell pack, just get a smaller one if you're concerned with wieght. a 2cell 900mah lipo is only 40g. hell, if you're not worried about ROAR rules, just put in a small 3 cell.

I've run a mamba 6800 in my T-fource. someone makes an adapter plate to bolt the little thing right in, but I just used one screw. Worked ok till i hit the wall.
Plenty of power on these little motors. It was faster than a 19t, but laptimes sucked since it wasn't setup for the change in wieght distribution.
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Old 02-02-2007, 12:21 PM   #23533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
only thing that looks "new" are the left and right pod plates. c'mon HB, you have a world champion car and a ton of monster trucks; but a little R&D into a 12th instead of just copy/pasting the 12l4 in purple
they did sort with the HPI/Hotbodies AH-12, but are going back to what they feel works. looks like they are just updating the HPI RS 12G that they had out in 1996 4-bolt pod, their own frontend. looks like now they are using the AE front
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Old 02-02-2007, 12:28 PM   #23534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfwdude
Brian,
The mamba 25 is spec'ed for 2-3 cell lipo, not 1. There is no low voltage cutoff that you can set for one cell. You can always turn off the LVC, and hope you don't get too discharged.
You may as well just use a 2cell pack, just get a smaller one if you're concerned with wieght. a 2cell 900mah lipo is only 40g. hell, if you're not worried about ROAR rules, just put in a small 3 cell.

I've run a mamba 6800 in my T-fource. someone makes an adapter plate to bolt the little thing right in, but I just used one screw. Worked ok till i hit the wall.
Plenty of power on these little motors. It was faster than a 19t, but laptimes sucked since it wasn't setup for the change in wieght distribution.

plate is made by BK Electronics in Germany
http://www.finedesignrc.com/ is the U.S. distributor.
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Old 02-02-2007, 02:12 PM   #23535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
they did sort with the HPI/Hotbodies AH-12, but are going back to what they feel works. looks like they are just updating the HPI RS 12G that they had out in 1996 4-bolt pod, their own frontend. looks like now they are using the AE front
That and they are using the newer symetrical t-plate
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