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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-31-2007, 11:48 AM   #23491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I've been working on a similar project for a little while. I decided on using two cells since it gave me more options, and I settled on the J Werks 8 KV motor and esc. My local airplane guy told me that the Mamba escs don't have many steps, I don't know if this is true for all Mambas but I've seen the J Werks system work well in 1/18th scale cars. I'm just going to convert a regular 1/12th car to test gearing, etc, with the idea in mind of a purpose-built car after that. If my numbers add up right, I can build a car that comes in well under 600 grams. A purpose-built car could be down around 500 (18 oz) since you could use lighter parts, like 2mm graphite and very small motor plates.
Man, try to figure out the set up for a 500 gram car!
That's one I'd love to see.
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Old 01-31-2007, 12:00 PM   #23492
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Originally Posted by odpurple
Man, try to figure out the set up for a 500 gram car!
ADD WEIGHT!!

Sorry...couldn't resist.

Scottrik
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Old 01-31-2007, 12:52 PM   #23493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
ADD WEIGHT!!

Sorry...couldn't resist.

Scottrik
Oh, sure. just go for the easy solution
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:53 PM   #23494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Guy Davies sold me my very first RC car at Hobby Hut--gold tub RC 10 w/ original Zeta speed control (remember Del Flagg?) to race at the old Renton club over by Stoneway where the water park is now. Didn't know he'd gone bike racing tho. Pete Neilsen (same crew) did the bike racing thing for a while--I raced slot cars with him the last couple years I was in Seattle. He probably has some idea as to Guy's whereabout.
Hey Scottrik - I still have a programable Pro Zeta that I used in my 1/12 scale Corally 12SP back in the day. Really great controllers!!
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:57 PM   #23495
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Speaking of OLD stuff I bought this MCS Bearing cleaner at least 20 years ago. Been a GREAT tool for cleaning bearings and works as well today as it did years ago.
Hey I've got 2 of these in my tool boxes, ya never know when you'll need one.
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:45 PM   #23496
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Originally Posted by odpurple
Yeah, like Jim said, we see Ken all the time. We were all in the same club back when. We are putting together a mod race in a couple weeks and I know he'll be there for that.
BTW, I'm tellin him you called him "obscure"
Back in the day, the BBR Lotec body was the hot ticket.

Not many know about it now though. I don't know that I talked to Ken more than a few times.
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looking for....vintage 1/10-1/12 pan, need Schumacher 1/12th cars and parts.
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:51 PM   #23497
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
That was a nice trip down memory lane, so back to the future.....

I am considering a project for my personal interest. I want to build up a single li-po (3.6v) cell Mamba brushless car with the intention of making it as light as possible. I wound need a receiver pack to run the radio. I don't care about Roar rules to mold to. I would like to see if a car could get built about 24 ouces with about a 3000-4000mha of battery. For the t-bar car, I would need to parallel two cells. If I use two cells, they could be tapped in series and regulated down for rx power. A link car could use just one cell.

Then the fun part is to take this "future formula" and go heads up against our current equipment.

Anyone have any tips on the right Mamba motor/esc and the li-po?

Wouldn't it be easier to scale up an 1/18th car like the Scalpel than scale down parts on a 1/12th car?

The pro-110 wasn't a bad car, Carlos Gonzales did good with it for a brief period. At least I think Carlos ran for a short period for MRP, getting hard to remember. They just needed more time with the car. I won our state championships with a car I made using the back half of the MRP 4-10 Shotgun on a chassis with an RC10 front end on it. actually it was the front half of the car that I flipped and used as the rear end. That was a crazy car. I should restore that thing. Worked great. I had adjustable rear toe in before people paid any attention to stuff like that. Back when battery packs were simply "blue" and came from Parma.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:06 PM   #23498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
Back in the day, the BBR Lotec body was the hot ticket.

Not many know about it now though. I don't know that I talked to Ken more than a few times.
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Last edited by odpurple; 09-12-2008 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:25 PM   #23499
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Originally Posted by odpurple

Here are some old ones that never got painted.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:42 PM   #23500
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
Hey Scottrik - I still have a programable Pro Zeta that I used in my 1/12 scale Corally 12SP back in the day. Really great controllers!!
I pulled "development driving" duty on the programmable Zetas. In fact I've got one of the pre-production programmers still--no labeling and a universal box. For whatever reason both the Pro Zetas I have look to be production pieces so I must have turned the pre-production speed controller(s) back to Del.

The market drove Del crazy with those...he had the programmability feature LONG before anyone else (heck, even today Novak and LRP only offer 5 pre-set programs, the KO VFS is really only an updated interpretation of his system nearly 20 years later) and he had the lowest on-resistance FET's, substantially lower than the Novak and Tekin's of the day, but the market didn't beat a path to his door. The only programmable Zeta that had any real commercial success was the "Turbo Zeta" programmable that went in the old aluminum case--the tractor pullers and monster truckers loved 'em. He was a fascinating man, always had great ideas racing around in his head. The difference between he and most "idea-men" is that he was able to pin them down and make them real.

Scottrik
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:45 PM   #23501
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Hi,
II am 42 and I live in Italy.
I run my first 1/12 race i '81, with a SG prototype. Then i race with:
Lexan Gemini (by Phil Greeno)
Schumacher C Car (and B car, the first revolution)
Parma (similar to Delta), i dont remember car's name
and finally...Asso RC 12L: I buy them personally in Pomona (LA) with all Losi Hop Up's
Many years later, i buy a Kawada, then a RC 12L3 and now a RC 12L4.
I remember I usually modified igaraschi motor with special endbell with "slot's" brush and springs, i remember my first ESC (by simprop, without mosfets), i remember the first Delta Peack Battery charge from Delta.
Now i race also with 1/10 touring, brushless motors ecc ecc., but the years of "early race" was the better

At this link you can see some video (1/12 class is on last three) from last indoor race at my local club

leo
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:20 PM   #23502
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Originally Posted by odpurple
Awesome.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:21 PM   #23503
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Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
Awesome.
yes
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:22 PM   #23504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
I pulled "development driving" duty on the programmable Zetas. In fact I've got one of the pre-production programmers still--no labeling and a universal box. For whatever reason both the Pro Zetas I have look to be production pieces so I must have turned the pre-production speed controller(s) back to Del.

The market drove Del crazy with those...he had the programmability feature LONG before anyone else (heck, even today Novak and LRP only offer 5 pre-set programs, the KO VFS is really only an updated interpretation of his system nearly 20 years later) and he had the lowest on-resistance FET's, substantially lower than the Novak and Tekin's of the day, but the market didn't beat a path to his door. The only programmable Zeta that had any real commercial success was the "Turbo Zeta" programmable that went in the old aluminum case--the tractor pullers and monster truckers loved 'em. He was a fascinating man, always had great ideas racing around in his head. The difference between he and most "idea-men" is that he was able to pin them down and make them real.

Scottrik
The only Zeta I still own is in a truck puller. Mitch fooled with a Zeta in 1/12 back in the day.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:23 PM   #23505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elletaglia
Parma (similar to Delta), i dont remember car's name



leo

Euro-Panther or Pro-panther. The one and only time I tried to get my wife to race was with that Parma car in early 1988. She was pregnant at the time with our first born son, (now nearly 18 years old and racing with the old man), and the smell's of the tire sauces made her sick and she didn't actually race the car. She spent the weekend barfing in our hotel room. **Ah, the good times.**

Guess which car was hers.
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Last edited by Bob-Stormer; 01-31-2007 at 04:34 PM.
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