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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-30-2007, 10:39 PM   #23476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing Beaver
i think ill talk about the traxxas jato in this thread.
Guy has 18 posts (as of this post). All of them today over the last 2 hours. Chill out man, we're old 1/12 scalers suffering from Alzheimer's, we'll get to the Jato in a second or two when we forget what we're doing in this thread in the first place.

<---Goes to hike up his pants and turn up his hearing aid.

<insert sounds of a hearing aid squealing loudly with massive feedback while I fiddle for the right settings>"...There, that's better..."

Anybody else cold? Where's the thermostat?
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Old 01-30-2007, 11:53 PM   #23477
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I talk to Dave about once a week about what ever is hot on the rumor list. There is a chance that I picked up the tweak board from Dave Clark via Delta Dave.... but like Bob says... my secret is so safe I know even know it. I asked Delta Dave if he ever planned on making any more of them. He laughed and said "no!"

It would be fun to wander the halls of some of our old time shops to see what contraption could be found. I got a kick out of the musuem link even if it's in German. Some of those cars were not worth the material they were made from, but them some were quite good. Delta, Woods, Composite Craft.....

It's great that someone took the time to archive all that.
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:09 AM   #23478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
<---Goes to hike up his pants and turn up his hearing aid.

<insert sounds of a hearing aid squealing loudly with massive feedback while I fiddle for the right settings>"...There, that's better..."

Anybody else cold? Where's the thermostat?
It's nice to know I'm not alone. Attached is a pic of my rubber chicken, who has resided in my race box for over twenty years. Listening to you guys talk about the old days made me realize that the chicken is older than most of the people I race with. Hey! you kids get off my lawn!!!
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Last edited by odpurple; 09-12-2008 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:49 AM   #23479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
I talk to Dave about once a week about what ever is hot on the rumor list. There is a chance that I picked up the tweak board from Dave Clark via Delta Dave.... but like Bob says... my secret is so safe I know even know it. I asked Delta Dave if he ever planned on making any more of them. He laughed and said "no!"

It would be fun to wander the halls of some of our old time shops to see what contraption could be found. I got a kick out of the musuem link even if it's in German. Some of those cars were not worth the material they were made from, but them some were quite good. Delta, Woods, Composite Craft.....

It's great that someone took the time to archive all that.
Did Dave work a lot over at Steens place? Or help run races there. I think I've got a mental image of the guy.

Street cred points to Scottrik for buying a car from Guy Davies.

I was digging through an old rolodex tonight. My contact over at MRP was Ross Rainville. I think he handled team things. Then Bob welch got invovled with DPI and the boat stuff. Haven't seen him since about 93 at the Chicago show.

Here's another name, You guys should know this one, Bruce Burton. Figure out who this guy was, Ken Jones, kind of obscure. I found Gene Hustings home phone number. Haven't talked to Gene in years. Kinda fun digging through that thing.

<---digs on odpurples rubber chicken.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:16 AM   #23480
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Speaking of OLD stuff I bought this MCS Bearing cleaner at least 20 years ago. Been a GREAT tool for cleaning bearings and works as well today as it did years ago.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:41 AM   #23481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Speaking of OLD stuff I bought this MCS Bearing cleaner at least 20 years ago. Been a GREAT tool for cleaning bearings and works as well today as it did years ago.
I have one of those! It was great when I used to race offroad... I don't use it much now with carpet fibers, but it works well!!
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:47 AM   #23482
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I used my MCS (yup...in the club, I guess) up until this year. I bought an RPM bearing blaster out of curiosity as much as anything else after the MCS cleaners had been "dug up" in the WTB section. What I found is that the RPM is a LOT faster to use because you don't have to thread the parts together. I haven't used the MCS since. It's a neat piece of RC history, but it's been superceded in my box.

BTW--i've got a little plastic thingy in my MCS box. Did it come with the cleaner or is it something I wanted to save/protect so I put it in the box?

My Delta tweak bar (used for all three scales!!) I either bought from the Steens or the Bessels in Portland. Still have it...must be worth a fortune as a collector piece?

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Old 01-31-2007, 08:33 AM   #23483
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I remember when the novak GTX came out; does that count for anything?

yeah, I know. I need to at least double my age before I can have one of these "old guy" flashbacks. Until then I will do unnecessary physical activities and enjoy my ample finger dexterity.
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:02 AM   #23484
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GTX.... didn't that just come out a couple of weeks ago?

I was at the Ranch in '86 for off road nat's on the MRP Team promoting the Pro 110 2wd car (insert disaster), when I purchased my first electronic speed control. It was a Tekin for $79. Their first. I was so excited that I could do away with my resister, servo and diode.

Bob; didn't you sell a Jato once? You better check, that guy sounded like he needed some guidance.

Oh.... I remember.... Jay Halsey was President then!
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:15 AM   #23485
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Bob said Rolodex !! That's a big hook to history.

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Old 01-31-2007, 10:17 AM   #23486
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Ken Jones of BBR Lotec fame is still around racing 8th scale. He did come out for a couple of 12th scale races this year
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:57 AM   #23487
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That was a nice trip down memory lane, so back to the future.....

I am considering a project for my personal interest. I want to build up a single li-po (3.6v) cell Mamba brushless car with the intention of making it as light as possible. I wound need a receiver pack to run the radio. I don't care about Roar rules to mold to. I would like to see if a car could get built about 24 ouces with about a 3000-4000mha of battery. For the t-bar car, I would need to parallel two cells. If I use two cells, they could be tapped in series and regulated down for rx power. A link car could use just one cell.

Then the fun part is to take this "future formula" and go heads up against our current equipment.

Anyone have any tips on the right Mamba motor/esc and the li-po?
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Old 01-31-2007, 11:08 AM   #23488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
...Figure out who this guy was, Ken Jones, kind of obscure...
Yeah, like Jim said, we see Ken all the time. We were all in the same club back when. We are putting together a mod race in a couple weeks and I know he'll be there for that.
BTW, I'm tellin him you called him "obscure"
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Old 01-31-2007, 11:10 AM   #23489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
I remember when the novak GTX came out; does that count for anything?

yeah, I know. I need to at least double my age before I can have one of these "old guy" flashbacks. Until then I will do unnecessary physical activities and enjoy my ample finger dexterity.
If yer havin flashbacks now you'd better lay off the glue, grasshopper!
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Old 01-31-2007, 11:40 AM   #23490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
That was a nice trip down memory lane, so back to the future.....

I am considering a project for my personal interest. I want to build up a single li-po (3.6v) cell Mamba brushless car with the intention of making it as light as possible. I wound need a receiver pack to run the radio. I don't care about Roar rules to mold to. I would like to see if a car could get built about 24 ouces with about a 3000-4000mha of battery. For the t-bar car, I would need to parallel two cells. If I use two cells, they could be tapped in series and regulated down for rx power. A link car could use just one cell.

Then the fun part is to take this "future formula" and go heads up against our current equipment.

Anyone have any tips on the right Mamba motor/esc and the li-po?
I've been working on a similar project for a little while. I decided on using two cells since it gave me more options, and I settled on the J Werks 8 KV motor and esc. My local airplane guy told me that the Mamba escs don't have many steps, I don't know if this is true for all Mambas but I've seen the J Werks system work well in 1/18th scale cars. I'm just going to convert a regular 1/12th car to test gearing, etc, with the idea in mind of a purpose-built car after that. If my numbers add up right, I can build a car that comes in well under 600 grams. A purpose-built car could be down around 500 (18 oz) since you could use lighter parts, like 2mm graphite and very small motor plates.
Man, try to figure out the set up for a 500 gram car!
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