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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-30-2007, 05:42 PM   #23446
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so they will only bend. J/K
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:46 PM   #23447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
so they will only bend. J/K
lol they dont bend
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:51 PM   #23448
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[QUOTE=jrrc]See the 12th scale museum mentioned earlier for the first t-bar car, the "Delta Super Phaser". It was introduced by Delta Mfg. (in Iowa) for the first IFMAR 12th scale Worlds in 1982 (four years before the 12L)....which it won with Art Carbonnel driving. And yes, I was there.[/QUOTE

i think that car is still in the Delta shop, with the body on it. Delta was definately on the fore front in 1/12 back in the day.looking at some of the older cars, others used alot of Delta parts.i think with some refinements the beam front end could be used today.

I like to see Delta get some credit for what they did for 1/12 scale racing. some of you guys really know your history and can appreciate it.

the first esc came out of the delta shop...in a cardboard case. i believe the was the start of tekin
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:53 PM   #23449
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[QUOTE=Ntensweapon]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
See the 12th scale museum mentioned earlier for the first t-bar car, the "Delta Super Phaser". It was introduced by Delta Mfg. (in Iowa) for the first IFMAR 12th scale Worlds in 1982 (four years before the 12L)....which it won with Art Carbonnel driving. And yes, I was there.[/QUOTE

i think that car is still in the Delta shop, with the body on it. Delta was definately on the fore front in 1/12 back in the day.looking at some of the older cars, others used alot of Delta parts.i think with some refinements the beam front end could be used today.

I like to see Delta get some credit for what they did for 1/12 scale racing. some of you guys really know your history and can appreciate it.

the first esc came out of the delta shop...in a cardboard case. i believe the was the start of tekin
oh man im getting flash backs.
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:06 PM   #23450
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[QUOTE=wallyedmonds]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntensweapon
oh man im getting flash backs.


one of these days i want to take a day and rummage through the Delta shop. i have never been there but, i am told they have some of the team guys old cars, along with every car Delta Dave ever raced.

i just love to see all the old 1/12 scalers. the ideas everyone had. seems like once the assoc front end came out, pan car technology stalled. until now. the Slapmaster tub is ingenius, the inline cars from Darkside and Diggity, Powells u bar, and now BMI's link bar car...these guys are writing history as we speak. our kids will someday be on rctech talking about how cool things used to be
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:26 PM   #23451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I think either TM tires or maybe BSR tires are still molded for the two bolt hubs. I'm sure someone will post a link?
Speedmind tires do 2, 3 and 4 bolt hubs on one rim.
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:30 PM   #23452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revsinc
Is it possible for me to just get the tires only ???

And do the jaco wheels etc fit my car ??

thanks Kevin
Australia
Yes you can get tires only but they will typically be listed as foams or donuts.

The current Jaco wheels will not fit as they use a 3 bolt pattern...but if you changed out your rear axle assembly they would.
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:33 PM   #23453
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The first production Delta speedos were HUGE (the red ones) and had two rows of mosfets sticking through the top. We used to run them in our Yokomo Dogfighters. I'd love to find one of those babies!

Remember the bright orange Novak Bantam midget servos in the 1/12th scalers?!?!?
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:59 PM   #23454
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I got into 12th scale in '85 with that MRP Pro 120 thing. The chassis was molded lexan. I later found out that it was not compatible with motor spray. We used to race at one end of a indoor soccer center. The carpet would get rolled out, duct tape it together, put out all the metal, and then go over and stand at the edge of the track to race. Someone would count laps with series of number tickers fastened to a grease board. We were told to stop at the end of 8 minutes. You got your laps plus the tenths of the last lap. We had our choice of 6 cell stock or 4 cell mod. The 4 cell car was the way to go as it was lighter and could turn inside a stock car, but you would get smoked on the straight. Motor choices were: Johnson, Iggerashi or Mabuchi. Modifed was cutting the crimp tabs off and timing the motor and tapping it back on. Batteries then, were GE's or Saft 1200's. I think Sanyo was just coming on line. We used to weigh the cells for matching reasons, heavier cell = more power. The output shafts on the servo were square at the time which made centering a servo arm pretty tough. I found that if you opened the case, you could loosen a small screw holding the pot and adjust it to center up better. Oh, then there was those resister speed controls. You had to keep them polished up with an errasor.

Good times!

Now I have computerized radios, brushless mod motors, speed controls that can pass 400 amps, wrapped tires, molded carbon fiber chassis, scoring from a lap top that can track over 20 cars to the hundreth of a second and 4 times the battery capacity.

Even better times!
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:23 PM   #23455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
I got into 12th scale in '85 with that MRP Pro 120 thing. The chassis was molded lexan. I later found out that it was not compatible with motor spray. We used to race at one end of a indoor soccer center. The carpet would get rolled out, duct tape it together, put out all the metal, and then go over and stand at the edge of the track to race. Someone would count laps with series of number tickers fastened to a grease board. We were told to stop at the end of 8 minutes. You got your laps plus the tenths of the last lap. We had our choice of 6 cell stock or 4 cell mod. The 4 cell car was the way to go as it was lighter and could turn inside a stock car, but you would get smoked on the straight. Motor choices were: Johnson, Iggerashi or Mabuchi. Modifed was cutting the crimp tabs off and timing the motor and tapping it back on. Batteries then, were GE's or Saft 1200's. I think Sanyo was just coming on line. We used to weigh the cells for matching reasons, heavier cell = more power. The output shafts on the servo were square at the time which made centering a servo arm pretty tough. I found that if you opened the case, you could loosen a small screw holding the pot and adjust it to center up better. Oh, then there was those resister speed controls. You had to keep them polished up with an errasor.

Good times!
Who was president? Tell us another story grandpaw...

(I see now why guys tease me about that same kind of stuff, it's most enjoyable)
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Last edited by Bob-Stormer; 01-30-2007 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:56 PM   #23456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
I got into 12th scale in '85 with that MRP Pro 120 thing. The chassis was molded lexan. I later found out that it was not compatible with motor spray. We used to race at one end of a indoor soccer center. The carpet would get rolled out, duct tape it together, put out all the metal, and then go over and stand at the edge of the track to race. Someone would count laps with series of number tickers fastened to a grease board. We were told to stop at the end of 8 minutes. You got your laps plus the tenths of the last lap. We had our choice of 6 cell stock or 4 cell mod. The 4 cell car was the way to go as it was lighter and could turn inside a stock car, but you would get smoked on the straight. Motor choices were: Johnson, Iggerashi or Mabuchi. Modifed was cutting the crimp tabs off and timing the motor and tapping it back on. Batteries then, were GE's or Saft 1200's. I think Sanyo was just coming on line. We used to weigh the cells for matching reasons, heavier cell = more power. The output shafts on the servo were square at the time which made centering a servo arm pretty tough. I found that if you opened the case, you could loosen a small screw holding the pot and adjust it to center up better. Oh, then there was those resister speed controls. You had to keep them polished up with an errasor.

Good times!

Now I have computerized radios, brushless mod motors, speed controls that can pass 400 amps, wrapped tires, molded carbon fiber chassis, scoring from a lap top that can track over 20 cars to the hundreth of a second and 4 times the battery capacity.

Even better times!
That was 8 years before I was born. Your old.
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:04 PM   #23457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93
That was 8 years before I was born. Your old.

Those of us who were there prefer to think of it as "you're young".
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:06 PM   #23458
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Was it the Actor?

I am finding that my some of my tools are older then most of the guys I race with. I have a Delta tweak board that does 1/12,1/10 & 1/8th scale cars that might be pushing 17 years. It's awesome! I tell guys you can't get this one anymore. In a pinch, you put it under the truck seat on Friday nights.

Old!!! You just need to catch up.
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:14 PM   #23459
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i might be looking to get into nitro on-road pretty soon anyone know any cheap starter cars?
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:31 PM   #23460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing Beaver
i might be looking to get into nitro on-road pretty soon anyone know any cheap starter cars?
not many nitro guys in this thread, let alone this section of the forum. The nitro onroad section would be a much better place to ask your nitro onroad questions
http://rctech.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3
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