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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-29-2007, 04:31 PM   #23416
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*hint *hint ... Can we buy them yet.. can we buy them yet...
Its almost snowbird time...

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Old 01-29-2007, 04:44 PM   #23417
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Originally Posted by Crashby
Actually, the "Old School" front end was developed by Curtis Hustings of Associated. Their 12e, which was released in 1978, had the old school front end on it. The "L" in 12L stands for Cliff Lett who worked for Associated at the time and did a lot of the design and development work for Associated along with Curtis. I don't think Losi was involved with RC cars in 1978. That's almost thirty years ago!!!!! Yikes!
If anyone would know, it would be you; Oh Ancient One!
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:59 PM   #23418
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Originally Posted by aoizip

*hint *hint ... Can we buy them yet.. can we buy them yet...
Its almost snowbird time...

i will have some at the snowbirds for sale and display for its first outing and i will be filling pre orders when i get back.its time buddy
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Old 01-29-2007, 05:55 PM   #23419
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I found this REALLY interesting. Do the front axles for this HPI car look familiar? Anyone with a GenX recognize them?
Yeah...I'd spotted that as well. Nothing new under the sun, as they say.
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

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Old 01-29-2007, 06:02 PM   #23420
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Originally Posted by Crashby
Their 12e, which was released in 1978, had the old school front end on it.
By no means am I trying to argue, and maybe it's a matter of degree, but I guess I consider springs to be an element of the "old school" front end, at least as we know it today. The museum pics of the 12I clearly show they are missing, the pics of the 12E are somewhat inconclusive but it looks the same as the 12I. That said, it looks like the same steering block carries through 12E to 12L, but the 12L has the spring on top so the support "jaw" has a wider spread to accomodate and the kingpin would be longer as well.

Maybe the 12E and 12I are "old-ER school"?

Please feel free to correct me as appropriate!

Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

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Old 01-29-2007, 06:31 PM   #23421
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Gr10 / Stampede,
thanks for your US$0.002, i'll gladly take whatever $0.002 i can find, invite or no invite....
it certainly helps my choice easier though...
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Old 01-29-2007, 08:33 PM   #23422
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Regarding the 12E, 12I issue...I have brand new versions of each in my vintage arsenal, so I can clarify a few things:

The 12E had no front springs.
The 12I had 3 versions (to my knowledge), the first used no springs but did have a slotted chassis that flexed up and down near the front suspension mounts. The second version had a non-slotted chassis and solid suspension arms but used springs on top of the steering block. The third version had that elaborate mono-shock unit shown on the history website. I'm not sure of the order of the second two versions...the monoshock may have been before the steering block spring.

The actual steering blocks have changed subtly from 12E through 12L, with atleast 3 versions. Speaking of 12L, back in the day the word on the street was that the "L" was for (Gil) Losi, who supposedly helped with the design.
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Old 01-29-2007, 08:34 PM   #23423
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Default SP12X?

Anyone have strong feelings one way or another regarding the Corally SP12X? It's the new chassis that was released a couple months ago. Think it looks good (like the red trim), but just wondering if it's as good or better than some of the other kits currently on the market.
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:12 PM   #23424
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I also was told the L in 12L was for Losi.
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What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:20 PM   #23425
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The corally looks very good but the speedmerchant rev 4.5 is the way to go.
It's easy to set up,fast as hell and corner's like an animal.From the first day I put the car on the track my lap time;s were much faster then with any other car I have driven.Trust me I have had them all.
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:22 PM   #23426
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
I also was told the L in 12L was for Losi.
Yup, confirmed from the man himself. Gill Losi Jr developed the Tbar concept.
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:25 PM   #23427
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Just knowing where the L was incarnated form should lower lap times by at least 2 10ths.

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Old 01-29-2007, 09:36 PM   #23428
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I have that HPI front end still. It belong to a 1/10th Roadstar, I think it was. Yes, it had/has some pretty inovative ideas at the time. It had a double wishbone A arms. It had a longer kingpin that had spacers above and below the steering spindle that you would move up or down for ride height... the geometry of the arms didn't change with ride height changes. Of course, the reverseable axles for inline or trailing. They had reactive caster. It even had a place for a front sway bar! I will see if I can dig up a picture of it assembled. This front end was a little heavier then Associated's at the time, so it had naturally more steering. It handled the dot's very well due it's nearly half inch of travel.

Ah, from the Slapmaster museum, I give you a car that ....

didn't work all that well.....
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:18 PM   #23429
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my delta car had a t-bar way before AE/Losi Jr. refined the design and added pivots to one.

in the mid 80's, 2 local sponsored AE drivers (Butch Kloeber and Tim Neja) at the original SRS in Tempe, AZ. told me...AE were having issues over the 12L that Losi originally designed and AE wanted it oneway & Losi Jr. wanted it another. i got to see his made to order original prototype-version, one local racer had one he paid $400 to have made from Gil. battery stance was much wider than the one AE released, motor was not centered, old school spring frontend from the 12I, and it used 12E pod plates that were milled flat on the top to mount a 4-bolt plate. supposedly there were also some other issues in 86 when Losi as their own company and store Ranch Pit Stop started importing the Yokomo Dogfighter YZ-10, AE took Losi to court. more or less...AE claimed it was the soul importer of all YOK stuff. Losi fought their ground on the bases that AE had no intention of importing anything other than the motors. no one won (but the lawyers) or lost. infact within a year Losi i think was selling their REVOLUTION motor based on the YOk can. maybe that's why he isn't given credit for he involvement and design of the 12L
Losi Jr. won the the 1985 Offroad worlds in the Modified Class with a RC10, ....AE brags about winning with Jay Halsey...which he and AE did, but conveniently forget to mention it was in Stock Class (not saying anything bad about that or Jay H.) . if you got to www.rc10.com, click on "about team associated" and go down to the section that says "THE WINNING EDGE" click on 19+ IFMAR World Championships link. no mention of Losi Jr.? but if you go to www.ifmar.org under their hall of fame shows

IFMAR World Championship 1:10 Electric Off Road Stock
Year Champion Country Venue
1985 Jay Halsey U.S.A Pomona U.S.A

IFMAR World Championship 1:10 Electric Off Road Unlim.
Year Champion Country Venue
1985 Gil Losi Jnr U.S.A Pomona U.S.A
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:31 PM   #23430
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See the 12th scale museum mentioned earlier for the first t-bar car, the "Delta Super Phaser". It was introduced by Delta Mfg. (in Iowa) for the first IFMAR 12th scale Worlds in 1982 (four years before the 12L)....which it won with Art Carbonnel driving. And yes, I was there.
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