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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-27-2007, 09:04 AM   #23386
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Thanks, Mike. I appreciate the info
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:36 AM   #23387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insideline

very cool.you learn something new everyday
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:39 AM   #23388
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j ygpm
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Old 01-28-2007, 01:17 PM   #23389
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I don't want to start the discussion about which car is 'better', a link or t-bar car. I know both suspensions are great and really work well.
But I would like to know what the difference is between them. I was told that a link car has a more aggresive steering.
The reason why I'm asking is because I'm about to start in 1/12 again.
I've been racing it for a couple of years and started racing TC in September of 2006, but I'd like to run in both classes (1/12 for the heart and TC for the competition!).
I will start with a SP12m Euro (t-bar) which I still had, but I'm in the look out for a new chassis. I'm curious how a link car works for me, I like a car that isn't that aggresive (on steering) so that's why I'm wondering If a link car has a more aggresive steering (or maybe something else).
Hope you guys can help!

P.S. I did used the search option, but all I could find are things like; a t-bar car has gained more victories and a link/t-bar car works better for me (couldn't find out why).
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:18 PM   #23390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thraex
I don't want to start the discussion about which car is 'better', a link or t-bar car. I know both suspensions are great and really work well.
But I would like to know what the difference is between them. I was told that a link car has a more aggresive steering.
The reason why I'm asking is because I'm about to start in 1/12 again.
I've been racing it for a couple of years and started racing TC in September of 2006, but I'd like to run in both classes (1/12 for the heart and TC for the competition!).
I will start with a SP12m Euro (t-bar) which I still had, but I'm in the look out for a new chassis. I'm curious how a link car works for me, I like a car that isn't that aggresive (on steering) so that's why I'm wondering If a link car has a more aggresive steering (or maybe something else).
Hope you guys can help!

P.S. I did used the search option, but all I could find are things like; a t-bar car has gained more victories and a link/t-bar car works better for me (couldn't find out why).
it depends on what surface you are going to be running on. The only time I have seen link cars work outdoors is when the traction is very very high. Otherwise link cars are used in med to high bite carpet. t-bar cars are generally easier to setup while link cars have more tuning options.
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:50 PM   #23391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thraex
I don't want to start the discussion about which car is 'better', a link or t-bar car. I know both suspensions are great and really work well...................P.S. I did used the search option, but all I could find are things like; a t-bar car has gained more victories and a link/t-bar car works better for me (couldn't find out why).
Where did you race the 12M Euro car? I have raced Corallys for years along with a Q-12 which is a 12L conversion, CRC T-Fource, CRC Gen-X and ran a Darkside Mx2 today. So, I have some experience with all the cars.

I use the 12m Euro outside on a smooth pavement in 19 turn. This car is great on the track "Money" as a fellow racer calls it. Inside, the T-bar car is easy to set up for our tracks, but I think the link car has more steering.

If I were to purchase one car - I'd purchase the CRC T-Fource Red Edition. It allows you to run side spirngs or the T-bar. If you look at the race results, car does well on almost all tracks. If you want something "Different" I'd look at the Darkside MX2 or the Diggity Design center battery car.

My 2 cents
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:52 PM   #23392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
Yes it does. A buddy has a Hudy Tire Truer and runs CRC high roller all the time.
are you sure he had a HUDY arbor though??? I have head different stories about certain tires not fitting properly on certain arbors (like from Hudy or OFNA)

I just wanted to make sure before I spend wasted money on the wrong arbor....

can anyone elso confirm????
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:01 PM   #23393
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I have yet to find a set the Integy arbor won't true.
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:03 PM   #23394
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I couldnt true the older style crc dish front tyres on the integy arbor
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:55 PM   #23395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoppa
are you sure he had a HUDY arbor though??? I have head different stories about certain tires not fitting properly on certain arbors (like from Hudy or OFNA)

I just wanted to make sure before I spend wasted money on the wrong arbor....

can anyone elso confirm????
I don't know the whole story but I have two Hudy 1/12th arbors and they are different. They were purchased at different times, and they each fit differently on particular tires. They are both Hudy brand arbors, and I don't know thier part numbers.
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Old 01-29-2007, 01:44 AM   #23396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10
Where did you race the 12M Euro car? I have raced Corallys for years along with a Q-12 which is a 12L conversion, CRC T-Fource, CRC Gen-X and ran a Darkside Mx2 today. So, I have some experience with all the cars.

I use the 12m Euro outside on a smooth pavement in 19 turn. This car is great on the track "Money" as a fellow racer calls it. Inside, the T-bar car is easy to set up for our tracks, but I think the link car has more steering.
I only race on a 'jack the gripper' carpet track and the traction is usually medium to medium/high. If I am going to run outdoors (in the future) I will definitely run the 12M Euro since it's made for those kind of surfaces.
I will try to run a CK from a fellow racer on my local track and see if it works for me, I guess that's the best way to find out.
Thanks
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:20 AM   #23397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thraex
I don't want to start the discussion about which car is 'better', a link or t-bar car. I know both suspensions are great and really work well.
But I would like to know what the difference is between them. I was told that a link car has a more aggresive steering.
The reason why I'm asking is because I'm about to start in 1/12 again.
I've been racing it for a couple of years and started racing TC in September of 2006, but I'd like to run in both classes (1/12 for the heart and TC for the competition!).
I will start with a SP12m Euro (t-bar) which I still had, but I'm in the look out for a new chassis. I'm curious how a link car works for me, I like a car that isn't that aggresive (on steering) so that's why I'm wondering If a link car has a more aggresive steering (or maybe something else).
Hope you guys can help!

P.S. I did used the search option, but all I could find are things like; a t-bar car has gained more victories and a link/t-bar car works better for me (couldn't find out why).
T bar cars have always been really good.the whole idea of a link car is to have the same effect of the T bar car but more adjustment for bumpy surfaces.i never did see a link car work very well on asphalt to be honest though due to the lack of progressive spring tension that a T bar car has.i have tried only 1 or 2 link cars before i went back to a T bar car.i just was not as fast and had a hard time driving it.i do however like the idea of isolated suspension so i went out on a limb and developed a new rear suspension for the 1/12th cars to give the best of both worlds and it has been working extremely well.my first outing on asphalt with it i was exactly where i ended up with my T bar car.it can do nothing but get better.i had 2 years under my belt with my T bar car and only 2 hours with the new car.not bad if you ask me.plus it was easier to drive in the bumpy areas.here is a pic.
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1/12 forum-link-12-car.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:57 AM   #23398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghoppa
are you sure he had a HUDY arbor though??? I have head different stories about certain tires not fitting properly on certain arbors (like from Hudy or OFNA)

I just wanted to make sure before I spend wasted money on the wrong arbor....

can anyone elso confirm????
When I talk to him today, I will confirm.
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Old 01-29-2007, 06:27 AM   #23399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10
Where did you race the 12M Euro car? I have raced Corallys for years along with a Q-12 which is a 12L conversion, CRC T-Fource, CRC Gen-X and ran a Darkside Mx2 today. So, I have some experience with all the cars.

I use the 12m Euro outside on a smooth pavement in 19 turn. This car is great on the track "Money" as a fellow racer calls it. Inside, the T-bar car is easy to set up for our tracks, but I think the link car has more steering.

If I were to purchase one car - I'd purchase the CRC T-Fource Red Edition. It allows you to run side spirngs or the T-bar. If you look at the race results, car does well on almost all tracks. If you want something "Different" I'd look at the Darkside MX2 or the Diggity Design center battery car.

My 2 cents
i'm looking for something a little bit different...that's either the MX2 or the 3D12, but which is better? so any 2 cents from you on either car? i just cant make up my mind on which to get, going to run it on a smooth outdoor tarmac track. thanks.
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Old 01-29-2007, 06:32 AM   #23400
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Default History Lesson time?

I was thinking the other day...

What was the first "12th scale" car?

Who is responsible for designing the "old school" front end?

Who is responsible for designing the first "reactive" front end?

Any other history like stuff out there?
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