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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-25-2007, 05:06 PM   #23356
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the KD 19 turn is your best bet.the checkpoint is another but it is tough to get enough gear on them.i run the KD with full face F brushes and green springs + and -.the car is insane fast.i gear it at a 88/28 with a 1.8 rear tire
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:37 PM   #23357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by off_sider
Hopefully someone can help me with this..... I own a 3.2R CRC.. What is the job for Dampers, side springs, and center spring.
With lighter to heavier lube in damper, this does what effect?
With lighter to heavier side springs , this does what effect?
Center spirng and Oil weight , what happen with light to heavy?

Please let me know what the duties are for these and what would you recommend to start out with. Thanks for the help and time.
I'm not too familiar with link cars, but the basic concepts should be the same as T-plate cars. Not an expert, but this is what I have found:

Here is a good link for setup suggestions:

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html

Lighter or heavier side springs should be like running a lighter or heavier t-plate. Lighter side springs should give better rear traction. Heavier springs can be used to free up the rear end and perhaps make the car react faster.

A softer rear center spring can make the car have more on power understeer. It will give the car more rear traction and make the car easier to drive. It will give the car more "throttle" steering control. The rear will squat more on power and it will push under power.

Not too sure what center dampening will do, I generally run as little as possible, perhaps 30wt to 40wt. Just enough so that the car doesn't bounce on a rough track.

Mike's web page gives some good information on side dampening:

Damping Very little damping is used initially when I start at a track. Add damping to the rear end to add more steering. I have tried many types of grease, including various oils and diff lubes (the type of diff lube is not important, I use and try many types on the discs). The tension on the damping discs should be very light in most cases (cut the spring to reduce tension if necessary). Remove damping fluid to obtain more rear traction. If a lot of damping is used then a thin T-bar may handle better in extreme situations, but I do not typically like this setup.

I find that if you use too much dampening it acts much like a heavy T-plate or heavy side springs, it takes away rear traction. I would think that lighter dampening would make the car react faster.

Again, I am not an expert, so don't flame me if I've made some mistakes here. But this is what I have found from my testing.
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:40 PM   #23358
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what do you think of the crc 3.1 team red
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:21 PM   #23359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the KD 19 turn is your best bet.the checkpoint is another but it is tough to get enough gear on them.i run the KD with full face F brushes and green springs + and -.the car is insane fast.i gear it at a 88/28 with a 1.8 rear tire
Looks like you run a rollout of about 1.8". We run a rollout of about 1.7" with the KD but our track is usually fairly tight and technical.
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:32 PM   #23360
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yup,i run this on a tight track also.i have been practicing smoothing out my driving and it actually does allow you to run more gear.perfect example.Paul Wynn and i went out to test my new 1/12th scale car.Paul ran the car the 1st heat and the motor came off ice cold after 8 minutes geared at 88/27.i bumped it up 2 teeth and i went out and ran the car.i could damn near fry an egg on the motor. Paul went out the following heat with the same motor and gear as when i ran it.the motor came off the track at 110 degrees MAN I WAS SUCKIN!!!!!! this is what made me realize that i was over driving the car.after practicing with smoothing out my throttle finger,i was .2 on average faster and my motor temp dropped and i could add a tooth of gear.i am not good enough to run the gear that paul can but im trying.and to top that,i almost fell on the floor when mike blackstock told me his mod gearing.100/30!!!!!! brutha is a smoothe mo fo
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:35 PM   #23361
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Yea man, An ol" skool 1/12th trick, you can over gear an Mod in 1/12th just dont yank the throttle Lol... Mike Blackstock and Chris Dosek are masters of the overgearing methods, they can a 7 single and still not dump.
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Old 01-26-2007, 02:45 AM   #23362
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Default Diggity Designs 3D12 Conversions are now Available!!

Just wanted to let everyone know that the 3D12 conversion kits are now posted for purchase on the website. The CD12 conversion kits will be available on Monday. The full kits for both of the 3D12 and CD12 kits will follow in about a week! Orders yours now.



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Old 01-26-2007, 04:06 AM   #23363
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does anyone know of a shock absorber up-grade for the 12L4 i have popped out the plastic retainer i have tryed new shock bodys and new retainers but they keep doing this.
any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:11 AM   #23364
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CRC (scroll down on that page) has the durashock which uses a screw retainer to keep the sealing in place.
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:20 AM   #23365
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I just got the new one from SM last week.

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1437.html

I like the aluminum end cap, and the Teflon coated piston/shaft. I've seen a lot of the plastic ones blow off on link cars. Not that big of a problem with a T-Bar usually.
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:20 AM   #23366
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nice looking kit damon,i look forward to seeing it at the snowbirds.best of luck


CRC and IRS make awesome shocks for the L4.i like the IRS shock because the piston and shock shaft are 1 piece so once it is assembled it will never break.the stock piston is aluminum and pressed onto the shaft.they pull off when they get knocked around.
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:39 AM   #23367
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thanks for getting back so quickly

i think ill get the CRC dura-shock it looks like a very good design and nice and strong

cheers
Chris
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:44 AM   #23368
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thanks for the motor suggestions jason!
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:30 AM   #23369
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Yeah, that sheet was awesome..wish I knew where it was... I'm bad at not getting things bookmarked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stampede
Ray Huang has a tip sheet that'll help you. I just can't remember where I found it.
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:45 AM   #23370
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Is this the sheet you're talking about?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12th tech tips summary.pdf (13.5 KB, 225 views)
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