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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-22-2007, 07:59 PM   #23296
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Default 12L4 Scale Building Tips Link

Hey Guys,

Awhile back someone posted a great link for setup and building tips for 1/12 scale and specifically 12L4. It was not Mike Lufaso's link (which is great) but I believe it was from Europe (maybe Britain?). It had great photos and detailed text of build tips for 12L4 and a few other brands by the same guy. Ring any bells?

Any help would be appreciated. I looked back through dozens of pages in this forum around the time I first saw it, but no luck. Search feature didn't yield answer either... I can't believe I did not bookmark it!

Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:09 PM   #23297
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was it this one?

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

-Jaybo
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:22 PM   #23298
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I have tried both the 13.5 and a 4300 in both my 1/10 hyperdrive and in my 1/12 crc. You are correct OD that the difference in brushless vs brushed is more apparent in a pan car and not so much so in a touring car. I will say that the 4300 is faster than an off the wall 19t but not as fast as one of my fellow racers handwound 19t in our pancars.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:28 PM   #23299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
I have tried both the 13.5 and a 4300 in both my 1/10 hyperdrive and in my 1/12 crc. You are correct OD that the difference in brushless vs brushed is more apparent in a pan car and not so much so in a touring car. I will say that the 4300 is faster than an off the wall 19t but not as fast as one of my fellow racers handwound 19t in our pancars.
That's what we found too. IMO a fast brushed 19t is faster than a 4300, but it has to be a very good one. The brushed car is lighter with better balance so if it has the same horsepower it has the edge. Time will tell, though, I'm sure there is more to be learned about running brushless and the 4300
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:36 PM   #23300
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Jaybo, that was it! Many thanks!

John
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:37 PM   #23301
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we were running 5800 brushless motors with the 19 turn class with the standard rotors and they were pretty close in top speed(just a tic faster down the straight) but the drivability of the brushed motors always put them on top.with the new sintered rotors,the 5800 stomps a mudhole in the 19 turn brushed motors.now we need to do a seperate brushless 5800 class.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:38 PM   #23302
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What do you guys use for 1/8th diff. balls. Ceramic, steel, carbide..?
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:40 PM   #23303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
What do you guys use for 1/8th diff. balls. Ceramic, steel, carbide..?
I like ceramic. A little harder to get right, but smooooth
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:48 PM   #23304
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I've never tried the ceramic, not sponsered and a cheapass ; so I use the standard steel ones.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:50 PM   #23305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I like ceramic. A little harder to get right, but smooooth
i reckon i can make it 2 from 2 usefull links today!

http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore

or more specifically:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-8-Ceramic-Diff...QQcmdZViewItem

hope this helps guys
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:29 AM   #23306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
What do you guys use for 1/8th diff. balls. Ceramic, steel, carbide..?
Steel ones are fine. Make sure that you are using the ceramic axle bearings and the slapmaster diff set. You'll have a smooth diff.

-E
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:44 AM   #23307
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Try this link for a great deal on ceramic bearings and diff balls here in the USA!!! :
http://members.fbx.com/~rmurdock/win...ion_Parts.html

#wt2707 is the flanged bearing complete car package w/12 diff balls too!

(or you can buy the bearings or balls individually)

Great people, great price, & fast shipping!!!

but don't forget the Slapmaster thrust bearing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:51 AM   #23308
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ha guys on the tork tubes for is what is a good starting point in oil?
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:05 AM   #23309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybo
i reckon i can make it 2 from 2 usefull links today!

http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore

or more specifically:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-8-Ceramic-Diff...QQcmdZViewItem

hope this helps guys
Yep, very good store idd. Good quality, good price, fairly fast shipping.
Got ceramic diff balls from them in my GenX and complete ceramic bearingset in my Yokomo BD. Run extremely well.

(Ceramics are definately worth it over steel ones, just do the diff like on Mark Payne's website)
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:34 AM   #23310
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I like to use the carbides, $8 one time and it's over. Most of the carbides I own and run are older then most racing careers. I like the carbides to wear in a slight groove into the ring which increases the contact surface area allowing more power to be transmitted without slipage. Then it's just a matter of cleaning the diff .... oh say once a month. I have noticed on Jack Tracks that the diff will gum up eventually with little track nuggets.

I better clean mine before 'birds.
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