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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-22-2007, 06:56 AM   #23281
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One thing that I'll say about the 13.5 is that you can't allow the sintered rotors. I've run both stock and brushed on the same layout and the sintered rotor is what makes the 13.5 way faster than stock.

Locally, it's been suggested that if there are enough people (say 4 each) split the classes. If there aren't enough of either class then they should all run together.

Judging by the motor issues at Novak, it's only a matter of time before either the motor rules change or brushed dies out.

A comm lock isn't a comm lock if it doesn't "fix" the timing...
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:12 AM   #23282
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1/8 or 1/10 scale hi-end gas racers when/if they come into 1/12th or electric sedan racing generally don't consider the cost of a brushless system unreasonable. they also rarely skimp on electrics...servos, or even brushed esc's if they go that route.

however from what i have seen in my limited travels, many electric racers (maybe 80%++) limp into 1/12th scale when decide to give the class a shot, spending as little as possible, and the majority of the time recycle down batteries and electrics from their 1/10 buggies/sedans. to some degree even using $13-$27 servos, lo-cost AM radios, large receivers, lo-cost sport esc's, chargers, misc. equip that they wouldn't use on their 1/10th cars. They are usually short lived in the class, and are out within a month. especially, if you have new 1/12th racers taking their packs that aren't cutting it in sedan or buggy in 5-min races and making 4-cells out of them to run 8-min. from racing in the current area i'm in at this time, whether it's 4300 pan oval or 4300 sedan those with the freshest NIMH's rule even over lipos in the mixed battery sedan classes.

as for the 13.5, i don't see it as a stock 1/12th class saviour or attendance booster. seeing info/comments about 13.5's run with 27T in threads on rctech.net and on other forums, the 13.5 in stock form over a 8-min race appears to be 3-5 laps faster.

if you get into limiting 13.5 BL to a spec gear ratio, you would also have to consider tire size.... you would end up with a situation where those who could run the freshest largest tires and know how to set-up/drive a car like this...would rule.

i have raced against 13.5 sedans with a CO27 and haven't noticed much difference. guys that run 4300 sedan don't generally like when 19T's run with them. 19T's rule on the straights.

closer to 1/12 cars to some degree....1/10th pan oval are quite different. 27T's and 19T's can't even compete with a 13.5/4300BL cars. the BL's are 3-5+ laps faster over 5-min runs

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 01-22-2007 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:25 AM   #23283
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One thing that some may not be aware of, comparisons between brushed and brushless are often drawn from experience with touring cars; and 1/12th cars (or all pan cars) are different. I'm not sure if its the direct drive or car weight or what, but the disparity in speed between the 13.5 and a brushed stock motor is greater in a 1/12th than in a sedan.
I've tested about five of the 13.5 motors and they are all faster than any brushed motor I have seen, even with the bonded rotor.
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:44 AM   #23284
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I see what you're saying od and I agree completely. We're running stock and stock brushless together, the way it worked out this past weekend was we had enough to pretty much split the classes.

A fixed ratio class would work too. Policing it would be the issue though...would probably need to be a fixed rollout.

I do agree that someone needs to standardize a "Stock" brushless motor.

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Old 01-22-2007, 01:31 PM   #23285
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It's just a question of balls !!

Diff balls that is.

6/8/12..... how many do you run ??

I run 6 and it's a tad gritty, but still durable and light.


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Old 01-22-2007, 01:37 PM   #23286
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From what I've seen, the size of the track seems to matter most in the brushed vs. brushless debate. On a smaller track, there isn't much difference between them. But on a larger track you can gear a 13.5 a bit higher than what you would a brushed motor and still be fine in the corners. At least that's what I have experienced.
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:19 PM   #23287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Vector
It's just a question of balls !!

Diff balls that is.

6/8/12..... how many do you run ??

I run 6 and it's a tad gritty, but still durable and light.


Jacko

Jacko - You should always try to run as many balls as your diff will allow. 12 is the most you can get in there. The more balls you run, the more the pressure from the diff rings is distributed. Meaning less pressure on each ball. The balls and rings will last longer. Especially if you use ceramic balls and Slapmaster's Thrust ass'y.
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Old 01-22-2007, 03:39 PM   #23288
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Thanks Fuzz, I race with the Slapmaster himself, but it's never occured to me to see where him and the other speed merchants are at in this dept. It was just time for a silly question.


Thanks again.

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Old 01-22-2007, 04:15 PM   #23289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
Jacko - You should always try to run as many balls as your diff will allow. 12 is the most you can get in there. The more balls you run, the more the pressure from the diff rings is distributed. Meaning less pressure on each ball. The balls and rings will last longer. Especially if you use ceramic balls and Slapmaster's Thrust ass'y.
Also with more diff balls the less tension you have to run to get the same amount of friction in the diff. So you can run your diff a bit more loose therefore reducing the amount of wear in the diff.
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:45 PM   #23290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva
From what I've seen, the size of the track seems to matter most in the brushed vs. brushless debate. On a smaller track, there isn't much difference between them. But on a larger track you can gear a 13.5 a bit higher than what you would a brushed motor and still be fine in the corners. At least that's what I have experienced.
Maybe there is a track small enough for this to be true. The smallest track we run on is 65'x35', the largest is 100'x60'. The 13.5 is way faster on the little track and way faster on the big one. Once people figure out how high they can gear a 13.5 on either one the game is over.
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:49 PM   #23291
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a 13.5 should be quicker than a brushed stock motor on any track.brushless motors have a ton of low end and when geared correctly should have more top end.i never did try a 13.5 but this has applied with all other brushless motors i have run such as the 5800,5.5,4.5,and 3.5.they all has tons more low end rip than a brushed motor.to the point that it is harder to drive.
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:02 PM   #23292
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What about the crawler motor instead? Thats a 18.5 turn motor, or would that be too slow?
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:50 PM   #23293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
a 13.5 should be quicker than a brushed stock motor on any track.brushless motors have a ton of low end and when geared correctly should have more top end.i never did try a 13.5 but this has applied with all other brushless motors i have run such as the 5800,5.5,4.5,and 3.5.they all has tons more low end rip than a brushed motor.to the point that it is harder to drive.
you dont say! mine was a handful with the 3.5
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:31 PM   #23294
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Default Without sorting through 700+ pages...

.........

Last edited by RCBuddha; 01-22-2007 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:32 PM   #23295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seano
What about the crawler motor instead? Thats a 18.5 turn motor, or would that be too slow?
don't know, might be worth trying
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