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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-21-2007, 08:56 PM   #23266
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Hi guys

im new to 1/12 and im after a roll out chart for them,can someone tell me where i can find one and print it out

thanks chad
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:57 PM   #23267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown sv
Hi guys

im new to 1/12 and im after a roll out chart for them,can someone tell me where i can find one and print it out

thanks chad
www.gearchart.com
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:57 PM   #23268
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very true.it would be nice to see it a fixed gear ratio brushless stock class to limit speed.it is hard enough getting people into the class.no need to make them too fast.i think that there is always a solution but rules have to be made and followed to help newcomers.there are always 19 turn and mod if you want speed.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:01 PM   #23269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Agreed.

The speed of the cars is already a substantial hurdle for most (all?) beginning racers. There is no good reason to "speed up" the stock class. People racing there who want to go faster can move up to 19T or, heaven forbid, mod.

Don't create additional barriers to entry.

Scottrik
On the other hand, brushless isn't going away and it has drawn in some who wouldn't otherwise have tried 1/12th. Something I've seen around here is the 1/8th gas car guys coming into 1/12th in the off season. It's great because they are all experienced racers who can handle the speed; but most of them say without brushless they would not have bothered.
My solution would be to have a spec class with Silver or Black can TCS motors (they are almost as maintainance free as brushless ) for entry level and let the 13.5 and 4300 run with 19t.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:02 PM   #23270
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And also ive got a crc 3.2R and i want to do mark payne's shock trick with the xray ball ends , do you have to drill another screw hole at the arial end , there's not enough room between the the two, any help would be good

thanks again
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:05 PM   #23271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
very true.it would be nice to see it a fixed gear ratio brushless stock class to limit speed.it is hard enough getting people into the class.no need to make them too fast.i think that there is always a solution but rules have to be made and followed to help newcomers.there are always 19 turn and mod if you want speed.
Fixed gear ratio would be a great solution! All that needs to be done is figure out what ratio would make the cars "beginner" speed. Then when a guy wanted to step up all it would take is gears.
Just one thing, don't ask me to do tech...I hate counting teeth
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:06 PM   #23272
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Quote:
Agreed.

The speed of the cars is already a substantial hurdle for most (all?) beginning racers. There is no good reason to "speed up" the stock class. People racing there who want to go faster can move up to 19T or, heaven forbid, mod.
Ok I agree with you on some of this; but not completely. Keep in mind that one of the biggest barriers right now is that most new racers need an inexpensive way to start racing. 1/12 is just that kind of venue and brushless while a bit more $ upfront allows a young driver more track time with less time wenching. Just my 2cents.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:09 PM   #23273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Fixed gear ratio would be a great solution! All that needs to be done is figure out what ratio would make the cars "beginner" speed. Then when a guy wanted to step up all it would take is gears.
Just one thing, don't ask me to do tech...I hate counting teeth

nothing like a 40 tooth pinion marked as a 23.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:10 PM   #23274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
Ok I agree with you on some of this; but not completely. Keep in mind that one of the biggest barriers right now is that most new racers need an inexpensive way to start racing. 1/12 is just that kind of venue and brushless while a bit more $ upfront allows a young driver more track time with less time wenching. Just my 2cents.
But if the car is too fast and the new driver gets discouraged right out of the gate he may not stick with it.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:12 PM   #23275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
nothing like a 40 tooth pinion marked as a 23.
I've got my number stamps ready!
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:23 PM   #23276
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The fixed gearing is a good idea, for the host track you could sell a pinion that is marked in some way shape or form to make tech easy. The expense to the racer would be minimal $3-5 at most.

On the low roll Slapmaster Bodine and I ran at a Regional club race this weekend in Oregon and built up too much grip through the weekend we did pull the Doohickey in the 3-4th rounds of quals to get balance back. In the early rounds though the car was money. This was on an older ozite based carpet running yel/black tire combo's with Jack for compound. As OD commented we also had to go with a wider stripe of almost 3/4 by A3 to get good front bite. We both were talking of going to a stiffer rear compound and back to the doohickey to get the balance back to a reasonable level.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:30 PM   #23277
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I have nothing against brushless myself either and look foward to running them when the ESCs get smaller, though I do have one in my TC. However brushless I don't think can or should ever be a stock class mainly for the reason that because it is electronically controlled it's only a matter of time until manufacturers make cheater ESCs. We've seen this happen allready in paintball when markers went from being mechanically controlled to electronically controlled. As competition became more and more intense manufacturers looked for advantages which lead to cheater boards that when activated would give you an advantage over the other player wether it be in rate of fire or velocity then with a simple trick like holding down the trigger for x amount if time the board would reset to a perfectly legal setting for tech inspection. Something like that would be easy to do for a supposed "stock" equivalent in brushless. In paintball they couldn't prevent it and ended up basically legalizing everything...in RC that would be the death of a stock class. Personally I think RC manufacturers have a lot more scruples then paintball ones but it's only a question of time before it would happen.
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Old 01-21-2007, 10:29 PM   #23278
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Quote:
But if the car is too fast and the new driver gets discouraged right out of the gate he may not stick with it.
Yep this is the classic chicken or the egg problem, no real easy answers I'm afraid.
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Old 01-21-2007, 10:38 PM   #23279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
Yep this is the classic chicken or the egg problem, no real easy answers I'm afraid.
You are right about that, for sure. If there were lots of entries in 1/12th the solution would be easy, just make classes for everyone. As it stands we can't have nine classes with two racers each
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:21 AM   #23280
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The fixed gearing is a nice idea, but it should be a fixed roll out or atleast a minimum and maximum roll out.
People will just run bigger tires when there's a fixed gearing rule and you'll be back to square one. And the tire diameter will be more importent, so the class will be even more expensive since the tires won't last that long anymore
Fixed gearing is already used here in Europe (germany) in 27t stock, but they are running on rubber so tire diameter isn't an isue.
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