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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-21-2007, 07:06 PM   #23251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
yeah really, what's goin on out there?

Here's something that might be worth discussing: Roll Center, specifically rear roll center. There's been some talk about it lately, with the new Slapmaster flex plate, with regard to loose traction at the end of a session. We've been using a low roll center t-bar that I devised on the team cars for a while now and it seems to help, although not in all situations. Has anybody else experimented with this? Maybe some one can explain how roll center affects the cars handling.

OD, you might want to ask Lino Brasco of Hyperform-Racing about the lowering of role center. He does that with his Razor car that he makes. I had the car previous version of the car which had the area where the t-bar sits milled out 1mm down. The car seem to carry more roll through the turns. While providing plenty of grip in the rear.


Ty, I have ran the AH-12 on carpet. It seems to do just as good as a Speedmerchant at the time that I ran it. I ran against a guy that had a Speed merchant at the time and I could stay with him or in front of him at the time. That was also my first time I ever ran carpet. I would think now you would have to mill the battery slots alittle bigger to compensate for the bigger cells now.
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:17 PM   #23252
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So basically the consensus is that it (AH-12 CONVERSION KIT) was okay but nothing special on carpet a couple years ago. Right? So is everyone agreed that it is not worth a try? Currently I run a 12L4. Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:17 PM   #23253
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I was just testing Slapmaster's flex plate last Sunday. I found my L4 had tons of rear grip. I was using the Speed 12 Body and found the car push really bad. The I switched to the Speed 12B and found the perfect balance. Also it was just practice so I ran till the end of the pack and the rear end was consistent from start to finish. I was also using jack the Gripper sauce aswell.
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:32 PM   #23254
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Ty, it is all a personal preference. If you want to run it run it. I am sure there are guys that have multiple 12th scale in their collecion as I do myself.
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:32 PM   #23255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ty
So basically the consensus is that it (AH-12 CONVERSION KIT) was okay but nothing special on carpet a couple years ago. Right? So is everyone agreed that it is not worth a try? Currently I run a 12L4. Thanks.
stormers has them for cheap.
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:33 PM   #23256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
yeah really, what's goin on out there?

Here's something that might be worth discussing: Roll Center, specifically rear roll center. There's been some talk about it lately, with the new Slapmaster flex plate, with regard to loose traction at the end of a session. We've been using a low roll center t-bar that I devised on the team cars for a while now and it seems to help, although not in all situations. Has anybody else experimented with this? Maybe some one can explain how roll center affects the cars handling.
hey OD,

i have messed around quite a bit with the rear roll center.i found that lowering the Tplate added more rear traction and raising it releaved rear traction.the perfect balance for carpet i found was .240 to the center of the ball to the bottom of the chassis.this is a standard AE pivot ball on top of a 2.5mm chassis.when the T plate is too low it made the car easy to drive but created a push and binds the car in the corners.when it was too high it made the car over aggressive and difficult to drive.when i ran the 2.5 mm chassis with a standard ball it was the best for carpet.for asphalt the 2.25mm chassis was the right height.hope this helps buddy.i did a ton of testing with this and this is what i came up with
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Old 01-21-2007, 07:54 PM   #23257
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We've just been working with the low roll center t bar for a little while now and what little data I have points exactly to what Jason and Carlos have observed. I think the car leans less with the LRC and I can run the car lower because the chassis doesn't drag as much. This has all come up IMO because the newest CRC carpet has less traction (and builds up less) than previous formulas. There was a lot of griping about the level of traction at Vegas last year and not surprisingly the Hyperform cars did really well. We've had to dial in more steering for the fast guys but for me the car is easier to drive and I can just sauce a little more or go from purple to violet fronts for the steering.
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:10 PM   #23258
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yeah,i like the lower roll center for asphalt racing for sure.i think that the vegas race required an asphalt setup due to the low bite.from what i was told,the guy steve ran a .063 t bar.that makes alot of sense and with those conditions was the right move.being that your running asphalt like i do i think you will benefit from the low roll center.i noticed that with the T bar cars they have a tendency to roll quite a bit and alot of the weight transfer is absorbed through the T bar.the lower roll center seems to load the rear tires more instead of the T bar doing the work and creates more traction.you can go too far though.what i did with my T bar car was i went with a 2mm chassis and started shimming each round and compared lap times.the following week i would do the same but do the sequence in reverse.then from there i made my final decisions.
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:17 PM   #23259
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Originally Posted by Ty
So basically the consensus is that it (AH-12 CONVERSION KIT) was okay but nothing special on carpet a couple years ago. Right? So is everyone agreed that it is not worth a try? Currently I run a 12L4. Thanks.
its not bad but i didnt like it as much as an L4
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:24 PM   #23260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Stiles
How popular is brushless becoming in the US? At todays UK national, 9 out of the 10 A finalists used brushless systems, and most brushless drivers appeared to have an advantage with top end compared to drivers running brushed. Runtime is also less of an issue, with a lot of drivers coming off with nearly 1000mAh left at some of this seasons meetings...

Personally I've been very pleased with my nosram system. Before this season I had never made the A final at a national, and this year I've made every single one, with several top 5 finishes. I'm running the same car (L4), so its either my driving thats improved significantly or its down to the fact that brushless is better suited to me.

What are your thoughts?
We've had an explosion of interest in brushless here lately. Its due to the local tracks allowing the Novak 13.5 in Stock and the 4300 in 19t. Allowing brushless has virtualy eliminated brushed motors in Stock, since the 13.5 is a lot faster (almost as fast as 19t). In 19t with the 4300 it is a toss up as the brushed and brushless are almost the same. There is little interest in mod, unfortunately
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:37 PM   #23261
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I think the same thing is happening elsewhere. We are doing the same in Columbus and there were 3 of us running 13.5's. Everyone who's tried it says the same thing, "I'll never go back!" I couldn't agree more.
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:38 PM   #23262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
yeah,i like the lower roll center for asphalt racing for sure.i think that the vegas race required an asphalt setup due to the low bite.from what i was told,the guy steve ran a .063 t bar.that makes alot of sense and with those conditions was the right move.being that your running asphalt like i do i think you will benefit from the low roll center.i noticed that with the T bar cars they have a tendency to roll quite a bit and alot of the weight transfer is absorbed through the T bar.the lower roll center seems to load the rear tires more instead of the T bar doing the work and creates more traction.you can go too far though.what i did with my T bar car was i went with a 2mm chassis and started shimming each round and compared lap times.the following week i would do the same but do the sequence in reverse.then from there i made my final decisions.
We heard while we were at Vegas that the fast guys were running .063 t bars and switched then, and haven't put a thick one back in since. We've tried it a time or two but .063 works better with what traction is available
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:45 PM   #23263
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I think the same thing is happening elsewhere. We are doing the same in Columbus and there were 3 of us running 13.5's. Everyone who's tried it says the same thing, "I'll never go back!" I couldn't agree more.
I don't aree. I don't have anything against brushless, and I don't miss cutting comms every round. But the speed of the 13.5 bothers me with regard to it being run in "Stock" class. I think cars with 19t speed are too fast for most guys coming into 1/12th, let alone a Novice RC driver. My whole deal is to see 1/12th grow so when the slowest class is too fast for a beginner it troubles me.
There's another problem, when other manufacturers come out with their "Stock" equivelant what will keep them from from making it faster than the 13.5 since there is no regulation at this time. There need to be standards set for brushless especially if they are going to be run in classes other than Mod.
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:46 PM   #23264
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i agree,i like the .063 t bar. the last race i did on carpet with a T bar car was 19 turn and the bite was pretty good so the .075 was better but i always start with the .063
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:51 PM   #23265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I don't aree. I don't have anything against brushless, and I don't miss cutting comms every round. But the speed of the 13.5 bothers me with regard to it being run in "Stock" class. I think cars with 19t speed are too fast for most guys coming into 1/12th, let alone a Novice RC driver. My whole deal is to see 1/12th grow so when the slowest class is too fast for a beginner it troubles me.
There's another problem, when other manufacturers come out with their "Stock" equivelant what will keep them from from making it faster than the 13.5 since there is no regulation at this time. There need to be standards set for brushless especially if they are going to be run in classes other than Mod.
Agreed.

The speed of the cars is already a substantial hurdle for most (all?) beginning racers. There is no good reason to "speed up" the stock class. People racing there who want to go faster can move up to 19T or, heaven forbid, mod.

Don't create additional barriers to entry.

Scottrik
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