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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-03-2003, 04:01 PM   #2281
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Quote:
For show it may be OK, but most people who have show cars want very realistic bodies. The wedge wing built into the Pform Bently is not on the real car so it may look a bit odd with 2 wings. Mounting the wing as you suggested would weaken the T-bar and restrict its movement, if you try this consider attaching the wire to the body, the same as oval wings
Thanks bud. now if you actually mounted it on the body you could mount it over the wedge wing that way it wouldnt look so funky
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:02 PM   #2282
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stormperson, damn you guys are going outside in march! i am excited about outdoor racing, but not yet. im doing another 3 day event a madness on the 21st i think, otherwise i would come down sooner.

about the crc i am doing a trade so i should have it within the next week or two. do you guys have a set date your done inside? ill get down as soon as i can. cya
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:39 PM   #2283
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Can anyone tell me where you can purchase a speedmerchant 1/12th car at street prices, i have seen it on their website for 250USD, but that seems a bit high.
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:00 PM   #2284
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hobbyetc.com is your best bet for avialiability as well as lowest prices.

there really isnt a date set yet, its more when everyone including the owner want to go outside to race, but there wasnt a big end of indoor race last year, and there was a few week break inbetween, and no real dates were set, and unfortunatly when it will happen i dont know, and your best bet is to show up a few weeks after they start, i would just start calling them up mid april, or PM me.
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:00 PM   #2285
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what is the least amount of mah needed to complete a 5 min stock race and a 8 min stock race both with 4 and 6 cells
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Old 02-03-2003, 06:10 PM   #2286
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Hobbyect is about the only place to get a SpeedMerchant online. They usually sell for 159.99 there. You have to check the site a lot, because when they do get some kits in they are gone in a few days. You maybe able to find some on E bay, thats were I got mine from. Otherwise buyer and trader forums. Good Luck...
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Old 02-04-2003, 10:07 AM   #2287
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70mph- For the 12th stock depending on what you do with the motor, car setup and driving style i would say the minimum is an honest 2900mah or in 30amp numbers 350sec discharge.

Guys around here are actually dumping 340's (at 30amp discharge) with the new super fast Monster Stock motors. This is on a track that has some elevation changes and bumps which spike the batteries more and thus cause you to use up more juice by about 30sec.

If you use fresh Ultra Metals or HV's then you actually have to remove some brush rap, soften the spring some and gear a tooth down as compared to the GP 3300's.

RC Paperboy- T.M. Tires are great tires and come on a "near" indestructable rim so this may solve that problem. Try a set of T.M. Gray rears (soft like TRC"s) and Purple fronts and i think you will see how durable and well performing they are.

Kev2- I think the Switchblade is the best 12th scale car.
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Old 02-04-2003, 10:15 AM   #2288
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Default Wheel and axle balancing?

I am running a new Team Red 6pack with CRC mounted foams and need to know from people who race how import balancing is. Any tips or links to a "how to" would be very much appreciated.

I was thinking about using a prop balancer and lead tape to balance the wheels and tires, but didn't know if this is even worth the time? How much of a difference can this make? The rear axle I thought about balancing with the lead tape also but it seems that it spins so fast that the lead tape would fly off?

Does the rear axle need to be balanced? Could I just drill some holes in the hub to offset the the weight of the stainless steel screw instead of attaching lead tape to it?

How about the wheels? The front wheels wobble side to side really badand seems as if they are warped, would balancing even help this?
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Old 02-04-2003, 01:29 PM   #2289
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Question: the Rolex Sports Car Series (www.grandamerican.com ) just debuted the Daytona Prototypes class at the Rolex 24 hours of Daytona. If they were made aerodynamically sound for RC racing, would you use one of those types of bodies if they were ever made. If so, what?
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Old 02-04-2003, 01:56 PM   #2290
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for foam tires most guys just use tire truers this can make up for an unbalanced wheel somewhat. it will also make the surface of the tire perfectly true for maximum contact patch or you can stagger them. but you could balance them with lead tape and that should work but the surface of your tire could still be out of round. i prefer to true tires because this will balance the the tire and make for a true surface. i am just starting 1/12th scale so i am talking from experience from 1/10th touring cars.
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Old 02-04-2003, 02:51 PM   #2291
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Quote:
Originally posted by darnold
RC Paperboy- T.M. Tires are great tires and come on a "near" indestructable rim so this may solve that problem. Try a set of T.M. Gray rears (soft like TRC"s) and Purple fronts and i think you will see how durable and well performing they are.
Where can I find these?

Thanks
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Old 02-04-2003, 02:58 PM   #2292
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Quote:
Originally posted by spaz456
for foam tires most guys just use tire truers this can make up for an unbalanced wheel somewhat. it will also make the surface of the tire perfectly true for maximum contact patch or you can stagger them. but you could balance them with lead tape and that should work but the surface of your tire could still be out of round. i prefer to true tires because this will balance the the tire and make for a true surface. i am just starting 1/12th scale so i am talking from experience from 1/10th touring cars.
Hey spaz456, My tires are trued, but when spinning them on a 1/8" shaft I can clearly see that they always stop at the same location(marked) which tell me that my wheels and tires are not balanced well at all. Any Ideas?

Thanks
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Old 02-04-2003, 03:41 PM   #2293
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Default Adjustable Hinge Pins

Does anyone know who makes the adjustable hinge pins to for the associated front suspension?

Thanks
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Old 02-04-2003, 05:25 PM   #2294
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if your tires are true and it is off balance then you probaly have a warped rim, balancing them with a prop balancer and lead tape should work.
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Old 02-04-2003, 06:56 PM   #2295
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regarding the sppedmerchant, it looks like a very nice car, has anyone had any personal experience, or seen them run.
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