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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-29-2006, 10:52 PM   #22891
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Default Slapmaster Flex Plate

Guys, I am getting real close to having full blown available Flex Plates for the racing public. I have a small batch at the shop. I only have standard kits, the anodized kits are still 3 weeks out. If you are thinking Snowbirds or you are trying to get a leg up on the local guys, this will be the least expensive speed secrete out there. There should be a few pre-release parts out there this weekend. Check out Stockton for one this weekend. He should be in the winner's circle (lets hope! ).

I have a new Flex Plate that takes place of the rear pivot socket of T-Bar cars. It bolts to the four holes in the t-bar with a flexible center hole for the chassis screw. Coned spacers perfectly position the t-bar to original heights and are the same thickness so that braces and cross braces will still fit. The Flex Plate moves the pivot center of the t-bar to the bottom, creating more grip over the course of eight minutes. For TQ or Jack the Gripper tracks, this will be a must have, solving that last few laps of loose race car. The Flex Plate is offered a few ways; "Standard Kit #113" will have the flex plate, 4 x 2/56 nuts & the spacers. The "Deluxe Kit #113R or B" will have the flex plate, then either red (R) or blue (B) anodized 2/56 screws, 2/56 nuts, & spacers. Lower your lap times now!
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:07 AM   #22892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
What kind of servo saver are you guys using?
And, why that particular one?
Go for the small kimbrough servo saver. The black medium size is intended for "medium size" servo's like the Futaba 9602 I use, not your tiny KO servo.
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:44 AM   #22893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
Go for the small kimbrough servo saver. The black medium size is intended for "medium size" servo's like the Futaba 9602 I use, not your tiny KO servo.
The medium size saver is really too big on a 1/12th, even with the 9602 (which isn't much bigger than a KO 949)

KO, Airtronics, JR servos: Kimbrough #113
Futaba servos: #114
Hitec: #131
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:39 AM   #22894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia
rc12L3 chassis question: i think i may be in the market for a replacement chassis, any advice? it seems like the 12L4 would be a sensible choice but is there something else out there that i should consider? i'm not looking for a complete chassis upgrade kit, just the actual chassis plate. thanks!!!

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Look at the Quad-12 from PRC - Great chassis, no more tape and a great racer making it. You'll be able to move all your parts to the chassis.
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Old 12-30-2006, 08:28 AM   #22895
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thanks grenade! it looks like a nice setup and the battery strap is an idea i could really go for but i got a deal on a 12L4 chassis that i couldn't pass up good looking out though
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Old 12-30-2006, 10:32 AM   #22896
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Hey all, I am running some 12th scale again after a 3 year layoff, for now I am running an old Novak Atom esc, wondering what profile I should run it on? I am currently using #1, the Stock profile, #1 is 5.86 ,#2 is 7.8, and #3 is 15.6 on the drive frequencies, wondering what's best for today's stock motors on 4 cell, thanks, JEFF
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Old 12-30-2006, 10:56 AM   #22897
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1 sounds to be the best.i usually run my keyence speedo at 1.5-2 for stock 1/12th.if thats the lowest it goes that should be good.the high frequecies are for mod motors.the higher frequencies will also heat up the speedo.
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:32 AM   #22898
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Thanks Jason!
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:34 AM   #22899
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no problem buddy
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Old 12-30-2006, 03:40 PM   #22900
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While we're saying thanks to Jason, those tips you gave me last week were good

Set a new track record (38/8.01 with a couple of spins) and new fastest lap time (11.7, eveyone else averages 12.2 quickest) for 1/12th scale at the local track - some bad luck in the last 2 finals keps me from a better result but the car was great! They even checked my motor to make sure I didnt slip in a 10x2 (the difference was really just corner speed and consistancy).

Some feedback though, I ran 3000wt diff oil on the damper disks, blue center spring, kit front springs, 10deg caster blocks and lifted the front of the center shock 1mm. On power was good - but sometimes if i was too violent on the steering it would pick up the rear wheel off the ground and all the power would go to that wheel and the car would basically stop - when the wheel dropped it would grip and shoot off almost uncontrollably. The way I fixed it was to back off the tweak screws so they were around 1.5/2mm from the chassis - when I did that the car was a rocket and I set the above time.. Could the cause of that be the soft kit front springs, and backing off the tweak screws had the effect of stopping the pod from working correctly?
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Old 12-30-2006, 04:16 PM   #22901
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the reason for the rear lifting is the front was biting too much.if you have too much front bit it will lift a rear wheel and also too thing of damping will.with backing the screws away from the chassis,you effectively took away front bite giving the effect of a softer t bar.i would check and make sure that you dont have the .018 front springs.reguardless of what you had to do to make it work,you made it work buddy glad to see that you layed the smackdown buddy.
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:01 PM   #22902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the reason for the rear lifting is the front was biting too much.if you have too much front bit it will lift a rear wheel and also too thing of damping will.with backing the screws away from the chassis,you effectively took away front bite giving the effect of a softer t bar.i would check and make sure that you dont have the .018 front springs.reguardless of what you had to do to make it work,you made it work buddy glad to see that you layed the smackdown buddy.
Thats right even if you had to put a tampon on the car to make it work who cares. If it works when you do it, and win the race props to ya!

Its not written anywhere that you cant think out side the "box"
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:54 PM   #22903
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I have heard from a few people that they purchased springs that were suppose to be .020 and they were .018's instead. Check them with a caliper as well don't always trust the labels on the package.

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Old 12-30-2006, 07:55 PM   #22904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedxl
Thats right even if you had to put a tampon on the car to make it work who cares. If it works when you do it, and win the race props to ya!

Its not written anywhere that you cant think out side the "box"
I'm just getting back into 1/12th also, and I thought I was doing good today learning how a link car works. NOW I have to figure out where to mount a tampon?!!! Back to the drawing board.
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Old 12-30-2006, 08:04 PM   #22905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Guys, I am getting real close to having full blown available Flex Plates for the racing public. I have a small batch at the shop. I only have standard kits, the anodized kits are still 3 weeks out. If you are thinking Snowbirds or you are trying to get a leg up on the local guys, this will be the least expensive speed secrete out there. There should be a few pre-release parts out there this weekend. Check out Stockton for one this weekend. He should be in the winner's circle (lets hope! ).

I have a new Flex Plate that takes place of the rear pivot socket of T-Bar cars. It bolts to the four holes in the t-bar with a flexible center hole for the chassis screw. Coned spacers perfectly position the t-bar to original heights and are the same thickness so that braces and cross braces will still fit. The Flex Plate moves the pivot center of the t-bar to the bottom, creating more grip over the course of eight minutes. For TQ or Jack the Gripper tracks, this will be a must have, solving that last few laps of loose race car. The Flex Plate is offered a few ways; "Standard Kit #113" will have the flex plate, 4 x 2/56 nuts & the spacers. The "Deluxe Kit #113R or B" will have the flex plate, then either red (R) or blue (B) anodized 2/56 screws, 2/56 nuts, & spacers. Lower your lap times now!


yet another impressive part from BB@slapmaster. man i wish i had this last year when i was running irp it would have been the magic bullet for that track. this will work for paragon tracks also. not to mention those old rugs out there.
i can't wait to get my hands on one of these.
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