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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-27-2006, 10:22 AM   #22846
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I dont think it is a weight limit but a weight minimum......your car has to weigh at least 28 oz....
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:54 AM   #22847
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Originally Posted by M2_Driver
I dont think it is a weight limit but a weight minimum......your car has to weigh at least 28 oz....
Quite right, I stand corrected! The numbers given are a MINIMUM weight limit.
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:29 AM   #22848
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Woa, Snowbirds is 29 oz!
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:34 AM   #22849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2_Driver
I dont think it is a weight limit but a weight minimum......your car has to weigh at least 28 oz....
limit meaning you can be no lighter than
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:37 AM   #22850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
The ROAR weight limit is 794g (28oz), and EFRA weight limit is 800g (28.2oz) and I believe the JMRCA limit is also 800g. The IFMAR limit is 865g (30.5oz). EFRA have proposed a rule change to IFMAR to bring the IFMAR weight limit in line with ROAR and EFRA at 800g - result awaited.

I can't believe that car is 880g - that's like running an IndyCar with a passenger!! My Corally SP12X with a larger receiver and speedo comes in at 807g, and at about 830g with a receiver pack. The weight limit is there to be met, not ignored!! HTH
hmm,i have never seen any races that used 28 oz. as a minimum weight.nor have i seen a car that is that light.you will usually always need to add weight at a roar event.i never saw a time where i was trying to shed over an oz. are you sure about those numbers?
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:49 AM   #22851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hmm,i have never seen any races that used 28 oz. as a minimum weight.nor have i seen a car that is that light.you will usually always need to add weight at a roar event.i never saw a time where i was trying to shed over an oz. are you sure about those numbers?
Unless something has changed this year ROAR minumum is 794 grams. The old 880 figure is for six cell cars, I think. 794 grams = 28 oz.
When we were running 3300 cells I could get a car down to weight, but with the new cells that's gone out the window. 4200 cells are about 15g heavier than the 3800s which were about 15g heavier than the 3300s. Add to that thicker chassis with no cutouts on most cars and you can see its hard to get the weight down to minimum. The best I can do on my cars is about 810g.
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:50 AM   #22852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hmm,i have never seen any races that used 28 oz. as a minimum weight.nor have i seen a car that is that light.you will usually always need to add weight at a roar event.i never saw a time where i was trying to shed over an oz. are you sure about those numbers?
Now here's interesting...

In the ROAR 2006 rules, it has 794g as the minimum weight limit for 4 cell, and 880g as the minimum for 6 cell. However, in the 2007 Rulebook on the ROAR website, it only has one weight limit - 880g. Methinks that there has been a bit of an error...

I spoke to many of the American drivers at the 2006 Worlds in Italy, and they all agreed that the ROAR limit was 28oz (794g) and that having to put weight on the car to get it to 865g (the IFMAR limit) was a right pain in the ...

I think someone needs to check with ROAR to clarify that the weight rules weren't changed between 2006 and 2007, and that it is merely a misprint. If not, then you'll be racing monstertrucks, by weight, at the ROAR Nationals and Regionals this year!! HTH
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Old 12-27-2006, 11:56 AM   #22853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
... If not, then you'll be racing monstertrucks, by weight, at the ROAR Nationals and Regionals this year!! HTH
Or you can just go brushless and forget about ever coming close to weight.
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Old 12-27-2006, 12:05 PM   #22854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
Now here's interesting...

In the ROAR 2006 rules, it has 794g as the minimum weight limit for 4 cell, and 880g as the minimum for 6 cell. However, in the 2007 Rulebook on the ROAR website, it only has one weight limit - 880g. Methinks that there has been a bit of an error...

I spoke to many of the American drivers at the 2006 Worlds in Italy, and they all agreed that the ROAR limit was 28oz (794g) and that having to put weight on the car to get it to 865g (the IFMAR limit) was a right pain in the ...

I think someone needs to check with ROAR to clarify that the weight rules weren't changed between 2006 and 2007, and that it is merely a misprint. If not, then you'll be racing monstertrucks, by weight, at the ROAR Nationals and Regionals this year!! HTH
Not only that but if you scroll down a few lines it shows it as 4 cell only now.
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Old 12-27-2006, 12:46 PM   #22855
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yeah,i think it is a misprint.from what i was told they changed the 1/12th class to 4 cell only but didnt change the weight requirements to what it should be minus the 2 cells.looks like we will all be dragging a brick on our cars to make weight at a roar event
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Old 12-27-2006, 12:48 PM   #22856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Unless something has changed this year ROAR minumum is 794 grams. The old 880 figure is for six cell cars, I think. 794 grams = 28 oz.
When we were running 3300 cells I could get a car down to weight, but with the new cells that's gone out the window. 4200 cells are about 15g heavier than the 3800s which were about 15g heavier than the 3300s. Add to that thicker chassis with no cutouts on most cars and you can see its hard to get the weight down to minimum. The best I can do on my cars is about 810g.
yeah,i checked my car with 3300's and now i see were the 28 comes from.hell,at least when i go to the birds with my 4200's i will be right at weight with no quaters glued to my chassis.
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Old 12-27-2006, 12:53 PM   #22857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
yeah,i checked my car with 3300's and now i see were the 28 comes from.hell,at least when i go to the birds with my 4200's i will be right at weight with no quaters glued to my chassis.
Wow, quarters glued to the chassis, that's old school! Back when I started we would servo tape quarters onto our 12i's. Then when someone asked you how light your car was you'd say something like: "Fifty Cents!"
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:00 PM   #22858
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Just for grins I just weighed some batteries

GP 3300 heaviest 258.4g lightest 256.5g

IB 3800 heaviest 270.2g lightest 269.3g

IB 4200 heaviest 289.2g lightest 281.7g

These are all saddle packs with shrink wrap

Oh yeah, I also weighed some IP 3800s: heaviest 289.4g lightest 287.3
Kinda fuels the rumor that they were 4200s in 3800 shrink wrap. They say 4200 now, but I don't have any to weigh.
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:12 PM   #22859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Wow, quarters glued to the chassis, that's old school! Back when I started we would servo tape quarters onto our 12i's. Then when someone asked you how light your car was you'd say something like: "Fifty Cents!"

i know,i guess i never grew out of my old habbits.
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:14 PM   #22860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Just for grins I just weighed some batteries

GP 3300 heaviest 258.4g lightest 256.5g

IB 3800 heaviest 270.2g lightest 269.3g

IB 4200 heaviest 289.2g lightest 281.7g

These are all saddle packs with shrink wrap

Oh yeah, I also weighed some IP 3800s: heaviest 289.4g lightest 287.3
Kinda fuels the rumor that they were 4200s in 3800 shrink wrap. They say 4200 now, but I don't have any to weigh.

do you have any WC cells you could weigh?i would be interested to see if they are reshrunk 4500's.that always seems to be how the new cells are introduced
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