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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-26-2006, 03:03 PM   #22831
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Ok, This is what you have to do - with most speedos.

You have a 5 cell (6 volt) reciever pack. Plug this into your BAT socket on your reciever. This should have a switch inline with the positive wire.

This then gives you 2 switches on the car - one on the ESC, one on the Reciever pack.

When you go out onto the track - switch the RX pack on, leave the ESC switched off.

The car will run correctly.

The other method is as differs slightly - you still need your 2 switches.

However, for this you remove the positive (usually red) wire from the reciever plug from your ESC.

Then switch both switches on at the start of the run.

HTH

Your best bet if you aren't fully confident - might be to check with someone at your local track that runs one. You don't want to risk danaging any electronics if you aren't 100% confident.
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:34 PM   #22832
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I never knew ESCs would run with the switch off...I guess I just come from the old school where ESCs had to have the power pulled from the reciever plug and turned on. I'm not sure I would want to have it setup this way in case in a crash the switch gets turned off and the turn marshal accidently turns back on the wrong one or both.
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:38 PM   #22833
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You could cut the switch wires just dont hook them up together. Basically, when the ESC recieves power from the reciever it turns on. If you turned on both the power from the reciever pack and the power from the esc (thats what the switch does) going to the reciever, you will let out the magic smoke.
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:02 PM   #22834
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Well, i have to be honest i have had on occasion that both switches have ended up on - like you say, when someone else picks car up and doesn't know how it's set up.

That said, it isnt' good, and some speedos probably don't like it and the magic smoke could escape.
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Old 12-26-2006, 07:53 PM   #22835
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well after 15yrs w/o 1. i picked up a 3.2R 2nd hand and i'm really excited bout how this simple platform has evolved since my 12LW.

i'll be gettin it 2gether slowly but surely here for some stock asphalt action.

any tips/tricks would be appreciated

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Old 12-26-2006, 08:12 PM   #22836
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you don't have to pull the red wire from the LRP Quantum (Q1) Comp, Q2, Novak GT7 or the GTX. with the ESC switch harness removed or the ESC switch turned OFF...these ESCs turn on when switch on the rec-pk is turned ON on the rec-pk harness plugged into your receiver.

i have done both. if you keep both switches, you and your pitman need to know which switch does what. it sometimes helps to keep the esc switch incase you didn't charge your rec-pk

with the rec-pk switch on....it powers your servo, esc, rec, and PT. your main 4-cell pack only powers your motor.

everyone knows if the esc switch is ON.....your 4-cell pack powers everything

i'm not a top level driver, but i have seen sites and posts stating it's done for consistent servo operation and that it only adds 5-10 sec runtime. maybe with a 8T or lower. i'm a blast and go driver for 8-min, i don't conserve jack, but i do run milder winds compared to some...from my experience running mod it depends on the winds i was running in mod.

11X2 Orion Core touring 30-40secs with the rec-pk
10X2 Orion Core touring 20-30
9x2 Orion Core touring 10-20

all motors were run with 5-6deg adv, Orion Sprints with trailing edge cut, green or softer springs

when i tried it with a 27T stock motor, i never noticed the difference with 3800+ packs (never tried it with 3300 or below/olders packs). never tried it with a ROAR 19T like the C2 or the Komodo.
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:15 AM   #22837
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Anyone know the ROAR minimum weight for a 1/12 car? I just checked the 2007 rules on the ROAR website and they're calling for 880 grams, which seems a bit heavy...

Thanks..
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:23 AM   #22838
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880 grams = 31.041 oz. If you can get under 31 oz with a body and transponder, you are doing good! Even with this setup, I can't get under 31 oz. I'm coming in at 32.24 oz right now.
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:34 AM   #22839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
880 grams = 31.041 oz. If you can get under 31 oz with a body and transponder, you are doing good! Even with this setup, I can't get under 31 oz. I'm coming in at 32.24 oz right now.
you could save a bit more by removing the servo case mounting lugs that are not in use
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Old 12-27-2006, 02:35 AM   #22840
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Wasnt the Worlds (IFMAR) weight 825grams?
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:55 AM   #22841
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i believe its 29 oz if im not mistaken.my car was 29.5 last time i raced.
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:21 AM   #22842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips
Anyone know the ROAR minimum weight for a 1/12 car? I just checked the 2007 rules on the ROAR website and they're calling for 880 grams, which seems a bit heavy...

Thanks..

hmm,that may be correct with the heavier 4200 cells for this year.last carpet race we had was in november and the legal limit was 29 oz.i guess now i dont have to be mad that my car is over weight.i got a little bummed when i didnt have to add weight to the car.
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:24 AM   #22843
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looks like im gonna be mad again for the snowbirds.they are going with the
29 oz. weight limit this year.
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Old 12-27-2006, 07:26 AM   #22844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
880 grams = 31.041 oz. If you can get under 31 oz with a body and transponder, you are doing good! Even with this setup, I can't get under 31 oz. I'm coming in at 32.24 oz right now.
you can save by taking that huge front bumper off
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:16 AM   #22845
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The ROAR weight limit is 794g (28oz), and EFRA weight limit is 800g (28.2oz) and I believe the JMRCA limit is also 800g. The IFMAR limit is 865g (30.5oz). EFRA have proposed a rule change to IFMAR to bring the IFMAR weight limit in line with ROAR and EFRA at 800g - result awaited.

I can't believe that car is 880g - that's like running an IndyCar with a passenger!! My Corally SP12X with a larger receiver and speedo comes in at 807g, and at about 830g with a receiver pack. The weight limit is there to be met, not ignored!! HTH
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