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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-23-2006, 08:29 AM   #22786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbboy
Hey all.
Looking for an exploded view of a properly assembled crc d-ring diff.
Also, are there any tips or tricks to getting these things to perform consistantly without replacing bearings all the time.?
Has someone come up with any decent aftermarket mods for these diffs, if so what?
Should we really be side loading a bearing anyhow?
Here's a couple of tricks and tips...

Use a ceramic bearing (www.rc4less.com) instead of a steel one - they last longer and take a higher load.
Use synthetic oil in the bearing. I use bicycle chain oil (http://www.finishlineusa.com/product...untry-lube.htm) which does a superb job of keeping the bearing in good condition.
Don't tighten the diff for the first run. 12th diffs are odd, in that they tighten up as they bed in. The reason many people wreck their diffs (and the outer bearing is the weak link, so goes first) is that they tighten them right up for the first run expecting them to slacken off - but they don't!! Leave the diff a little bit slack, run the car for a couple of minutes using gentle throttle, then take the car off and re-check the diff.

Lots of people here in the UK have used a Slapmaster and loved it! I use a Corally SP12X US Edition - it comes with a thrust race as standard AND it has an O-Ring in the drive end to take up any additional load as the diff settles down. Set it, and forget it!

Hope that helps.
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Old 12-23-2006, 11:07 AM   #22787
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Default CRC T-Fource?

Are the diff balls carbide with the Red T-Fource or the cheapy chrome?

Thanks


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Old 12-23-2006, 12:45 PM   #22788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tire Chunker
Are the diff balls carbide with the Red T-Fource or the cheapy chrome?

Thanks


Tom
they are chrome
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Old 12-23-2006, 09:10 PM   #22789
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Default Slapmaster thrust kit

"you need it and don't even know it"
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:37 PM   #22790
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What is the effect of the different castor blocks on the front of the car? I'm running 10deg blocks now, but im finding my car lacks on power steering - will moving to 5 or 0 degree blocks make it steer more on power?

Im running CRC purple procuts front, pink procut rears (straight from the packet). Red centre spring, 2mm front ride height, 3mm rear, pod level (cutting the shock ball cups did the trick). Kit front springs.

Should I also try some grease on the damper pads to slow the pod down and not generate so much rear grip?

I have my t-bar tweak screws set around 1mm away from the chassis on the reccomendation from another racer here, whats the best way to set these screws?

edit: sorry, running an L4 in 19t, speed 12b body
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Last edited by v0rtex; 12-24-2006 at 02:39 PM. Reason: added car type..
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:30 PM   #22791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
What is the effect of the different castor blocks on the front of the car? I'm running 10deg blocks now, but im finding my car lacks on power steering - will moving to 5 or 0 degree blocks make it steer more on power?

Im running CRC purple procuts front, pink procut rears (straight from the packet). Red centre spring, 2mm front ride height, 3mm rear, pod level (cutting the shock ball cups did the trick). Kit front springs.

Should I also try some grease on the damper pads to slow the pod down and not generate so much rear grip?

I have my t-bar tweak screws set around 1mm away from the chassis on the reccomendation from another racer here, whats the best way to set these screws?

edit: sorry, running an L4 in 19t, speed 12b body
the 10 degree blocks are all i run.i tried others but always wind up with the 10's on there.i run my tweak screws all the way to the chassis.i know it has been said on here to leave a gap but that has never worked for me.it generates way too much rear traction and the car is squirly and unpredictable.is this on asphalt or carpet?if carpet,the red spring is way too stiff.when i run on carpet i run this:

double pink wraps all around(tires)
siver spring w/ 30 wt. oil
3.75mm ride height(rear of chassis)
3.5mm ride height front
.020 front springs
rear track width 172mm
5000 wt. silicone oil on damper washers and king pins
front track width 165mm
batteries as far back as you can get them
1mm or slightly less pod droop.
sauce full rears and inside half of front tires
1 degree front camber
.075 T bar with 2 screws(leave center screw out)

if you need more steering on or off power you can shim the ball stud under the front of the shock.also play with castor shims on upper front arms
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:51 PM   #22792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i run my tweak screws all the way to the chassis.i know it has been said on here to leave a gap but that has never worked for me.it generates way too much rear traction and the car is squirly and unpredictable.is this on asphalt or carpet?if carpet,the red spring is way too stiff.
I'm running on an indoor asphalt track - the traction however is very high. I'll go back to a softer centre spring and see how that does, and i'll have to crank in those tweak screws too

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
if you need more steering on or off power you can shim the ball stud under the front of the shock.also play with castor shims on upper front arms
Ahh good tips, thanks Jason.
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Old 12-24-2006, 04:53 PM   #22793
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Going softer on the center spring isn't likely to add MORE steering, I would think it should exacerbate the push by increasing rear bite.

I think purple fronts are too hard if you're running pink rears. Try a softer compound front or a slightly a "harder" rear. For 19 turn on our slightly bumpy carpet (roll out to race) I've found good results with grey rear/violet front (Parma combo tire). I actually went to a copper center spring and red side springs to get my on-power steering where I wanted it.

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Old 12-24-2006, 06:10 PM   #22794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alf.skaar
CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R Link o-ring http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...od&prodID=1304
Speedmerchant Rev.4 Link tape http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/rev4.html
Hara Link tape http://www.atsushihara.com/main.htm
Ascari Link carbon http://www.moosi-masters.de/forum/vi...e331053bf3cdc8

Magnus Design, Team Laje T-bar tape http://www.laje.se/IMAGES/large_SpeedEvil2007.jpg
CEFX C12 T-bar tape http://cefx.net/products/kits/c12/
Trinity Reflex 12 T-bar tape http://www.teamtrinity.com/cars/reflex12/reflex12.asp
Trinity Black Widow T-bar tape http://www.teamtrinity.com/black_widow/car.html
CRC T-Fource T-bar carbon http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/empori...media/1312.jpg
Quad 12 T-bar carbon http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/products.htm
IRS Rug Rat T-bar tape http://www.teamirsrc.com/12scale.html
RC12L4 T-bar tape http://rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/...sheet_12l4.pdf
YRX-12 Worlds Edition, T-bar tape http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...scale_kit.html
Corally SP12M T-bar carbon http://www.corally.com/team/carstmsp12.htm
Slapmaster T-bar tape http://www.slapmastertools.com/
BMI T-bar tape http://www.bmiracing.com/
Hyperform 12 T-bar tape http://www.hyperform-racing.com/Hyperform_12.htm
D12 Link carbon http://diggitydesigns.com/d12_pics.html
GenX Link o-ring http://teamcrc.com

:-)
Also Darkside Motorsports Mx2, link car, no tape, www.darksidems.com
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Old 12-24-2006, 06:51 PM   #22795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Also Darkside Motorsports Mx2, link car, no tape, www.darksidems.com
I might have to pick one of those up.
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Old 12-24-2006, 07:50 PM   #22796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
I'm running on an indoor asphalt track - the traction however is very high. I'll go back to a softer centre spring and see how that does, and i'll have to crank in those tweak screws too



Ahh good tips, thanks Jason.
the center spring will smoothe the car out a little because the weight transfer will not be so abrupt.with a super stiff center spring the weight will transfer forward and rearward very quickly which will load that end of the car abruptly and then also unload at the same rate.on a T bar car i never needed any more than a silver being that you have added spring tension of the T bar.high bite indoor asphalt will be good with the set up i described.the biggest improvement i think will be tires and the damping in the washers and king pins.with none your car will push like a dog buddy.good luck.let us know if it works out.we will get your car running real good.
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Old 12-24-2006, 07:51 PM   #22797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the center spring will smoothe the car out a little because the weight transfer will not be so abrupt.with a super stiff center spring the weight will transfer forward and rearward very quickly which will load that end of the car abruptly and then also unload at the same rate.on a T bar car i never needed any more than a silver being that you have added spring tension of the T bar.high bite indoor asphalt will be good with the set up i described.the biggest improvement i think will be tires and the damping in the washers and king pins.with none your car will push like a dog buddy.good luck.let us know if it works out.we will get your car running real good.
hey Jason I got a question for you on a pm!
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Old 12-24-2006, 08:01 PM   #22798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Going softer on the center spring isn't likely to add MORE steering, I would think it should exacerbate the push by increasing rear bite.

I think purple fronts are too hard if you're running pink rears. Try a softer compound front or a slightly a "harder" rear. For 19 turn on our slightly bumpy carpet (roll out to race) I've found good results with grey rear/violet front (Parma combo tire). I actually went to a copper center spring and red side springs to get my on-power steering where I wanted it.

Scottrik

grey rears would not work out for asphalt.they will wear WAY too fast.especially in 19 turn.even on carpet i run double pinks in 19 turn.i think the only class i ran grey rears is in stock carpet.purple front do suck for 19 turn or mod.i never liked them.they take too long to feel right and by the time they get good its too late. are you running a copper spring with a T bar car?that seems awefully stiff.i know you need stiffer center spring on link cars but T bar cars i never ran heavier than a silver.
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Old 12-24-2006, 08:23 PM   #22799
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No--my mistake. I should have read he's got a T-bar car. My car is a link-mobile (3.2R's), though I'm looking forward to debuting my Darkside Mx2 at our Jan 6-7 event.

For the record, and I'm still experimenting, it's a 3.2R with Parma violet front / grey rear, copper center spring, red side springs, xtra heavy tube lube (though I'll be going back to regular "heavy"). .020 springs, no droop (pod/chassis flat at full extension). Start at 4mm, allow to drift down to 3.5mm on our "bumpier" carpet. One degree camber, zero toe (straight ahead) w/no slop linkage. 5 degree ally camber mounts, shim on either side of the block (centered). Ummm.... Niftech compound, full rear massaged in, 2/3 or so inside on front just daubed on. 272mm tread width at rear.

Finally getting my car to turn a bit better under power, but STILL pushing just a bit.

Merry Christmas to all!

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Old 12-24-2006, 08:39 PM   #22800
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merry christmas guys.
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